Trade is Sophisticated Fun

Celebrity chef Jody Adams has struck culinary gold yet again in the form of her new urban brasserie, Trade, set in a renovated brick building whose setting is as sleek and sexy as the wonderfully innovative food coming out of the kitchen.


Trade’s ambience can be best described as casually upscale. The restaurant itself is funky and fun, as evidenced by reclaimed pine tables and countertops, along with lightbulb fixtures dangling overhead. A long, lively bar extends to the back of the eatery, while a smaller, more intimate dining room – with impressive two-story windows overlooking Atlantic Avenue, is located at the front. Although Trade is located in a seemingly tranquil section of the Financial District (nearby landmarks include South Station and the Federal Reserve), the scene inside is quite lively. Noise level is moderate, but certainly tolerable for conversation.

If you can snag a bar seat in front of the kitchen’s Wood stone gas oven, consider yourself a lucky customer. It’s there where Executive Chef Andrew Hebert – who joined Adams after a longtime stint at her flagship restaurant, Cambridge’s Rialto – works his magic. Take for instance, a couple of small plates – playfully labeled on the menu A Little Extra – which include a serving of Scallion pancakes with sesame and chili dipping sauce ($7). The pancakes are razor thin, well-seasoned, crispy-crunchy discs, not your average Chinese food variety that are typically ultra-doughy and bland. Even better are crispy fingerling potatoes with paprika and cumin ($5). These spuds are oily, piping hot, slightly sweet, and tremendously addictive. Paired with a stiff cocktail, I’d have been content consuming these all evening long.

Some appetizers, while not prepared in that wonderful stove, are equally appealing, where Adams and Hebert put this own unique stamp on more traditional fare. Grilled squid with beans, olives, and vinegar peppers ($9) is nicely seasoned and served salad-like in a bowl, while a pair of fried tentacles are placed in the center, like a cruel joke to remind us that calamari indeed lives on. Creamy avocado topped with sweet green mango-tamarind-peanut chutney ($8) instantly gained admirers tableside for its delicate balance of soft-crunchy texture and mild-spicy flavor.

Back to the oven, a whole roasted trout ($24) was a marvel to behold in both presentation and bold flavor. The fish possessed a crackling skin exterior and a moist flesh interior, and was topped with a unique combination of slaw and raisins that somehow manage to complement the fish. “Why didn’t I think of using these ingredients when cooking fish?” one dining companion remarks. My personal favorite: steaming-hot, hearty baked rigatoni served in a large cast-iron pot, with generous chunks of lamb ragu and provolone ($22). The pasta is nicely browned and cooked al dente with just the right proportion of chewiness to crispiness, and packs a welcomed, subtle heat due to the incorporation of chili flakes. Like those addictive potatoes preceding it, this is a fantastically executed, extremely tasty dish that rivals any pasta in the nearby North End. Also rivaling any pie produced in the North End are Trade’s pizzas – recognized here as Flatbreads – which possess some of the finest crusts in all of Boston. A version of mushroom and figs with gorgonzola, sage, pesto and walnuts ($16) is a crispy, creamy, smoky delight.

While desserts may not deliver the same stratospheric levels of complexity as the plates preceding them, they deliver bold flavors nonetheless. While a Taza chocolate budino ($10) was a tad too pudding-y in texture for my taste, its seasoning with seasalt, rosemary, and butter made for a bittersweet, salty treat, accompanied by a thin, crispy sesame wafer for dipping. While a couple of dining companions swooned over a dairy-free baked Alaska ($10), I found the merengue exterior itself merely average while gravitating more towards the wonderfully chilly, almost creamy interior packed with chocolate and coconut sorbet.

Cocktails were skillfully crafted and stiff. A refreshing rhubarb daiquiri infused with house-made rhubarb-vanilla sauce was a tad too sweet and not quite tart enough for my liking. My favorite was a spicy-sweet pomegranate martini over ice, laced with hints of cilantro, charred pineapples and chilies. It was the perfect complement to those addictive potatoes.

Service was nothing short of exceptional. Our waitress, who possesses a delightful British accent and even more delightful, witty sense of humor, confidently steered us to the perfect dishes and drink pairings. We ultimately decide to forego our tables in the dining room just so that we can remain in her company throughout the evening.

Trade delivers on the mile-high expectations that heralded its much-anticipated arrival last year. The service, atmosphere, and the food at this eatery is sophisticated, yet fun, and that is why I wouldn’t trade my experience at Trade for anything – except, maybe, those mesmerizing potatoes

Zooma Trattoria’s Flavors Hit Warp Speed

Who needs the North End when you can find equally sensational and innovative pasta dishes in Providence’s Federal Hill? Zooma Trattoria serves up some of the finest, tastiest Neapolitan cuisine I’ve enjoyed in recent memory, and this Atwell Avenue establishment was a much more pleasant culinary surprise than I anticipated it would be.


Zooma’s atmosphere is warm and modern, if not slightly garish for its no-frills Atwells Ave locale. There are muted magneta walls, feathered chairs, large murals, and even larger chandeliers. Two large dining rooms are filled with customers and lots of noise. Fortunately, my wife and I are seated at the kitchen table, where are backs are turned away from much of the bombast and enables us to pay closer attention to the entertaining kitchen crew who meticulously, effortlessly prepare meals as the kitchen expediter shouts out orders. We’re also closer in proximity to the wonderful aromas emanating from the plates. The head chef graciously hands us our meals piping hot from the pot without breaking a sweat. The setting feels private and enthralling all at once.

Zooma opened in late 2004, but underwent a transformation when its present head chef, Jeffrey Burgess – who was a protégé of acclaimed chef Mario Batali (who is soon opening up a highly anticipated pasta/pizza joint of his own in Boston’s Fort Point District) –took over the kitchen. One should expect that any chef mentored by the likes of Batali to have mastered both pasta and pizza, and that is exactly where Zooma excels. My suggestion: bypass the appetizers (although dishes like the $12 pepperoni ripieni – a spicy sausage, risotto, and Montasio cheese stuffed bell pepper – sounds intriguing, while a complimentary house specialty of filet mignon spicy stew is a bit bland), and head straight to anything cooked with a flour base.

Zooma’s Neapolitan pizzas and pastas are made with high-end Caputo “00” flour, and the pizzas (all $14), although slightly doughy in texture, are perfectly crisped and charred in an 800 degree wood-fired oven. The Diavola, made with sweet house tomato sauce, spicy salami, and creamy mozzarella, possesses a firm crust that never wavers under its intensely flavorful toppings.

Pastas ($15-$28) are all made in-house by and, as evidenced by the impressive, glass-enclosed pasta-making room - the pastaficio - that appears on the left side of the entrance. The TLC that Burgess and his team place into pasta making is on full display in dishes such as the zesty tagliatelle nere ai gamberi ($24), with unique black ribbon pasta with four plump jumbo shrimp, garlic, chilies, tomatoes, and scallions. Even better? Since I was wavering between two dishes, the kitchen expediter took it upon himself to order on my behalf a combination plate. One half consisted of tortellini vino rosso - goat cheese-filled red wine ravioli soaked in a brown butter and orange reduction. The ravioli’s appearance came as advertised, possessing a striking red-tinged color, and the tartness of the goat cheese contrasting with the sweetness of the reduction were heavenly. The plate’s other magical half could have easily posed as a decadent dessert: pumpkin-stuffed ravioli topped with crushed amaretti cookie crumbles and grapes. Once again, the contrasts in textures and flavors – crunchy cookies against pillowy dough; the hot, sweet pumpkin filling with the cold, mild acidity of the grapes –work in perfect harmony. It’s a revelatory dish, one in which technique and just the right touch of creativity work in tandem, while the ingredients don’t overwhelm, but showcase the real star of the dish: the pasta itself.

Refreshing cocktails ($10) – playfully served in tall, narrow glasses - are stiff, yet nicely balanced and complex. A Dirty Lemonade (vodka, muddled fresh lemons, club soda, and Chambord raspberry lemonade over ice) is a refreshing seasonal drink, while I cozy up to the Zooma, a unique bittersweet concoction made with prosecco, Crown Royal, grapefruit, and elderflower liquor over ice. The wine list is extensive and reasonably priced, ranging from more interesting varieties (a $9 glass of Sangiovese/Merlot blend, Monte Antico, from the Tuscan region is a lighter, more suitable red wine to pair wit hearty pastas) to the more familiar (Cigar Box Malbec, $7/glass).

Service is relaxed and our waiter is extremely polished knowledgeable of the menu. Another nice touch was the restaurant’s acknowledgement of even the slightest delays, as evidenced by the aforementioned free stew, as well as a glass of wine that was removed from our tab. The fact that complimentary valet parking exists and that nearby confectionary haven Pastiche is within short walking distance only enhances Zooma’s allure. I eagerly look forward to sampling more of Chef Burgess’s sophisticated pasta. It just might keep me from frequenting the North End for good.

Steel & Rye Fuses Old and New with Mixed Results

The Industrial Revolution has returned to the suburbs of Milton. Not the actual Revolution, but in the form of Steel & Rye, a new fine dining restaurant houses in an innovative space that also serves up equally innovative cuisine rarely seen outside of Boston (although that trend is beginning to shift with the heralded arrivals o Newton’s Sycamore and Jeffrey Fournier’s Waban Kitchen.
Chef/owner Chris Parsons, the well-regarded head of former Winchester dining hotspots Catch and Parsons Table, has opened up a chic-looking eatery whose architecture pays tribute to the past. The sprawling 7,000 square foot space was once a car dealership turned ambulance garage. High ceilings make conversation a bit challenging, but bearable. There is also a more far-reaching nod towards the Industrial Revolution several hundred years prior in the form of old tools adorning windowsills, rusty beams cradling the bar, exposed pipes and ducts, steel beams with light bulbs burning bright overhead, and a concrete floor. But like many of the welders from that period, Steel & Rye manages to fuse the past with modern touches. Glass garage doors open to the patio, there’s a lively bar area, and there’s an open kitchen in which customers can view a multitude of chefs painstakingly preparing their meals. Diners consume their food on exposed wooden tables, and drink water from old-fashioned glass milk jars. The vast space is divided into different dining areas, and include fun touches including a table quaintly nestled into a window alcove at the front of the restaurant as well as a table in the back for two privately perched atop a spiral staircase. Despite the enormous space and crowds, Steel & Rye’s ambience is surprisingly warm and homey.

With mixed results, so does Parsons’s ambitious cuisine. Starters and small snacks are where Steel & Rye shines brightest. You’ll never invest a better $6 than with Today’s Cheese, which consists of homemade black pepper bread onto which sweet quince jam is spread and creamy Monk’s Head cheese is beautifully shaven into flower-like shapes. It’s a small delight that evokes silent nods of agreement at our table and will undoubtedly be placed alongside of some of Boston’s must-have dishes. A half dozen lamb meatballs ($12) are also pleasing, rich and silky due to an eclectic mix of runny poached egg, pine nuts, Greek yogurt, and whose flavor is further enhanced by a spicy kick of harissa (a North African chili paste).

Entrees are a mixed bag, but give Parsons his due – it’s not for lack of experimentation and innovation. On the positive side, homemade gemelli ($22) consists of tender pieces of braised lamb mixed with calamari-shaped pasta tubes that are perfectly cooked al dente. The pasta’s texture and flavor is enhanced by a masterstroke inclusion of breadcrumbs that soak up the sauce. East Coast halibut, which comes highly recommended by our server, shines in some areas, particularly the perfect execution of cooking the delicate white fish that instantly breaks apart at the gentlest touch of a fork (although a dining companion remarked that his was a bit dry). This dish, however, disappointingly falters in other areas that sounded much more intriguing on paper than how they appeared on the plate. A braised pork and hominy stew in which the halibut is cooked is less hearty than expected and surprisingly bland, while the hominy grits themselves are woefully undercooked and rendered inedible. Also barely discernable are accompanying grilled cactus and any hint of heat from gualjio chili.

Dessert, like the aforementioned halibut, delivers in some respects, but fails in others. While elements of the affogato such as frozen chocolate semifreddo and ultra-creamy vanilla gelato are quite delicious, their flavors are overwhelmed – drowned, actually – when decaf espresso is poured over the dish. While just a dash of espresso would have been preferred, there is an excessive amount of it here, which transforms the dish into a soupy, overly bitter-tasting mess. Housemade chocolate pop rocks add little, if any fizz to the plate, and ironically, a once-promising plate ultimately fizzles out.

Steel & Rye rebounds with its cocktails ($11), which are creative and well-balanced. Given the restaurant’s name, one would expect the bartenders to craft expert drinks containing rye, and the Bluster (comprised of whiskey, grapefruit, and pomegranate grenadine) delivers with its bittersweet, potent flavor. Also enticing is the Good Cuban, a bright, refreshing seasonal, citrusy cocktail with rum, lime, mint, bitters, and sparkling wine. There are also over a dozen modestly-priced wines available by the glass ($9-13), which include an inviting Cooper Hill Pinot Noir hailing from Wilamette Valley.

Service is understandably a bit slow on a bustling Saturday evening, and we appreciate our server routinely keeping our table informed of any delays. Thankfully, water glasses are constantly filled and delicious rye (sensing a theme here?) bread is constantly served with mouth-watering butter spread as we await the arrival of our courses. Our waitress is also extremely knowledgeable of the menu, patient, and enthusiastic (if not always spot-on) with her recommendations.

Prior to our departure, we notice a couple seated just behind us who arrived far later than us and are nearing the conclusion of their meal. I soon realize that they came only for starters, drinks, and dessert. And at the end of the day, that’s what I envision works best for Steel & Rye. Skip the less successful entrees and head straight to the more intriguing appetizers while washing them down with stiff libations. After all, the more (rye), as the saying goes, the merrier.

No. 9 Knocks it Out of the ‘Park’

It’s Barbara Lynch’s world, and we foodies are just fortunate to be living in it. Lynch has gained well-deserved fame and countless accolades (annual appearances on Boston Magazine’s 50 Best Restaurants, the esteemed Relais & Chateaux status for Menton, AAA Four Diamond ratings, a James Beard award recipient, just to name a few) for her French-Italian inspired cuisine that can be sampled all over Beantown, from South End’s B&G Oysters and The Butcher Shop to Fort Point’s Sportello and adjacent cocktail haven, Drink. And lest we forget the aforementioned Menton, Lynch’s ode to opulent fine dining in Fort Point where price tags exceed well north of $100 for a 3-course prix fixe menu. But in the midst of Lynch’s empire expansion, let’s not forget where all of the acclaim stems from. No. 9 Park, located at the hilly peak of Park Street, a stone’s throw away from the State House, is Lynch’s flagship restaurant/crown jewel that fifteen years after its heralded opening (longevity that represents an eternity for most restaurants nowadays), still manages to pack in avid diners and amaze with its exceptional cuisine and service.


No. 9 Park’s ambience oozes elegance. For starters, witness the entrance door’s silver-plated No. 9 door handle. A lively bar area resides at the front, while more formal dining rooms are tucked away at the rear and right side (the latter with large windows that provide splendid view of Park Street) of the restaurant. Taupe-colored walls and antique chandeliers adorn the establishment, as do wealthy, well-coifed patrons decked out in their finest blazers and dresses, as if out of a GQ catalog, chatting up themes around politics, academia, and finance. Such an extravagant setting calls for an exorbitant hit on your wallet. A three course prix fixes menu costs $69, while a Chef’s Tasting consisting of 7 courses runs $112, and an additional wine pairing with the latter is $74.

The entire table samples Lynch’s world-renowned appetizer, a quintet of prune-stuffed gnocchi. While the gnocchi dough itself was a tad dry for my liking, I applaud Lynch for her innovation and technique in embedding wine-sweet prunes within the pasta. Although the dish is simply plated, it’s complex in flavor, as evidenced by the sweetness of the prunes balanced by the salty, buttery richness of three rosy-pink pieces of foie gras and vin santo glaze. This dish merits all of the praise it has garnered over the years. Globe artichoke veloute is the perfect seasonal green soup playfully poured into a plate and served with focaccia, pecorino caggiano, and boquerones (a Spanish delicacy with anchovies) that mesh well together.

Entrees are equally impressive. While portion sizes are average at best – make no mistake, there will be no doggy bags to take home here – they are extremely savory. One taste of my friend’s Colorado lamb quickly leaves him reluctant to share, and it’s easy to ascertain why. Succulent pink slices of meat are taken from the lamb loin and braised shank, and are nicely glazed with a unique pea green and pistachio pesto and paired with polenta. A Duet of Rohan Duck had me singing the bird’s praises. While its presentation was nothing flashy (scattershot plating is a common trend at No. 9, while Lynch focuses more on executing technique and flavors), the crispy leg confit and breast were not only perfectly cooked medium rare, but ingeniously paired with miniature canele, a French pastry with a soft and tender center and a thick, caramelized crust. The contrast in textures and the sweet-saltiness of flavors make this a most memorable dish. Had crispy pork belly, served alongside littleneck clams and drizzled with a chorizo vinaigrette – in all of its fatty goodness – not followed the savory gnocchi dish preceding it, my wife would have enjoyed it even more.

Desserts were simply divine and highly innovative. Given my wife’s dairy allergy, the more-than-accomodating kitchen whipped up a delicious off-the-menu vegan chocolate cake, topped with raspberry sorbet and walnuts. Chocolate cremeux was a confection akin to a deconstructed S’more, with coffee, graham cracker, sticky burnt marshmallows, dense chocolate, and basil ice cream. It’s complex and homey all at once, and it’s sinfully good, better than any campfire version you’ll ever try.

Well-crafted cocktails ($13-16) are balanced and equally complex, including the bittersweet No. 10, comprised of Tangueray gin, Campari, and grapefruit and another that consists of a refreshing springtime combination of sparkling wine, rum, and honey.

No. 9 Park is also the rare special occasion restaurant that makes diners feel, well…special. This is in large part to the attentive, doting service that makes this sophisticated establishment feel so surprisingly unpretentious. While a well-groomed gentleman who took our menu questions while our waitress was occupied was a bit superfluous – particularly because he faltered when confirming that a couple of dishes didn’t contain dairy when they in fact did – it was still a thoughtful gesture, one of several throughout the course of the evening. Other nice touches included a pair of complimentary non-alcoholic sparkling sodas infused with elderflower for the ladies at our table who had refrained from drinking alcohol. Water glasses and bread plates were continuously filled and timed to perfection. A dining companion’s gnocchi was even placed under a silver platter to keep the dish warm while he used the restroom. Our waitress, who knew the menu inside and out, and was warm, informative, and patient, brought over a pair of wine samples when deciding which to pair with my duck. “This is the most exciting part of the dinner for me!” she beamed.

As we departed, our waitress flagged us down, thanked us for dining with them, and hoped we’d enjoyed our experience. And what an experience it was. On a scale of 1 to 10 on Paul’s Palate, No. 9 Park, with no shortage of irony, earns a solid 9.

Chez Pascal Brings French Chic to Providence

Who needs Paris when Chez Pascal, a cozy French-influenced bistro and wine bar, is a much closer dining destination? Nearing its ten-year anniversary (the restaurant opened in March, 2003), Chez Pasal – like a fine French wine – seems to have only gotten better with age. The bistro utilizes local, seasonal produce in its cuisine. The menu, while small in stature (selection-wise), provides dishes that are hugely creative and flavorful. And you know you’ve discovered a serious culinary restaurant that doesn’t take itself too seriously, as evidenced by both its servers decked out in jeans and its menus playfully inserted underneath many of its platings.


The bistro is divided into two intimate rooms, with a cozy bar to the side. We’re seated in the back room, with its yellow-splashed walls, that are decorated with a local artist’s (Anthony Salemme) jungle-themed paintings, a perfect complement to the leopard cushion seating. Tables are situated side-by-side, perhaps a bit too close if one does not want to hear an arrogant 21-year old Brown graduate endlessly boast about all of his knowledge on all things political and wordly. Fortunately, Chez Pascal’s extremely polished, yet casual waitstaff comes to our rescue. Multiple servers cater to every empty water glass while politely, unintrusively inquiring about how each course is.

And is each course ever delightful. For starters, we order the chacuterie ($18). With the exception of a couple of cured meats (which are made at nearby Daniel’s Catering), all other meats and pates – including a silky smooth, heavenly duck liver mousse topped with sweet onion relish – are produced in-house. This beautifully plated dish is sinfully good. Traditional escargot a la bourguingnonne ($12.50) are anything but, as six giant snails soak in an aromatic, warm garlic sauce, perfect for spreading on parsley-scented brioche. Pork of the day ($34) – which our server is nice enough to split into two plates – is a generous portion of tender meat prepared three ways, accompanied by sauerkraut and fingerling potatoes.

Desserts provide an immensely satisfying conclusion to the evening. Chez Pascal’s seasonal sorbets ($8) include a trio of blood orange, green apple, and lemon flavors that are light and refreshing. A tasting of three French custards ($10) was sensational, including a mocha pot de crème (the last of which, while quite good, was the weakest of the trio, as the mocha flavor was barely discernable amongst the dense, bitter dark chocolate flavor), a unique eggnog crème brulee, and a ridiculously good, silky maple scented crème caramel.

Providence might be more renowned for its Italian cuisine in Federal Hill, but if you head a shade beyond the Pawtucket border into Providence, Chez Pascal’s romantic ambience, attentive service, and creative French cuisine will make foodies forget Paris.

Caffe Bella Strips Away Strip Mall Restaurant Label

Randolph may not be widely regarded as a fine dining haven, unless one considers Not Your Average Joe’s fare to be above average. But look more closely, however, in a rather nondescript strip mall of all places, and you’ll find a gourmet gem in the rough. Caffe Bella is an Italian bistro that has long been popular with locals, and it is easy to understand why. An extensive menu boasts large portions of surprisingly creative, mouth-watering Italian cuisine at a fairly reasonable price point that falls below what you’d be accustomed to doling out for similar fare in Boston (although some may still find the prices a bit excessive for the strip mall setting).

            For appetizers, head directly towards Caffe Bella’s impressive assortment of fresh seafood offerings, including a heaping serving of Cape Cod littlenecks (there’s nothing little about these plump clams) and P.E.I. ‘Icy Blue’ farm raised mussels alongside spicy sausage ($21.50). Everything is playfully served up in a giant sauté pan, perfect for allowing the seafood, meat and two buttery-good pieces of wood grilled bruschetta to soak in an aromatic, intensely flavored, spicy broth infused with plum tomato, jalapeno, chile, garlic, scallion, and basil. The broth, in and of itself, could be served as a stand-alone dish. “We’ve had customers actually ask to bring just the broth home, it’s so good,” our affable server explains.

            Entrees are just as strong, including a hearty portion of Caffe’s Bolognese sauce tossed with fresh hand-cut parpadelle noodles ($16). It’s meaty and the perfect comfort food on a chilly, snowy winter evening. Wood-grilled duck breast and slowly roasted leg ($28) are moist and perfectly cooked medium, laced with a lovely sweet apricot fig glaze. Sides of lima beans and frisse salad are merely superfluous here, bland and seemingly for display. As impressive as the duck tastes, however, the dish’s piece de resistance is its accompanying house-made sweet potato prosciutto ravioli, one of the most memorable pastas I’ve sampled in the last couple of years (since that wonderful sweet pea lobster parpadelle dish at Providence’s woefully underappreciated restaurant, CAV). This version includes two raviolis that are uniquely prepared: they’re cut razor-thin, while the prosciutto is finely minced in with the sweet potato. A touch of sweet cream is then layered atop the pasta, enhancing the ravioli’s already ethereal flavor. It’s a stunning accomplishment, and quite frankly, left this critic stunned as to why it is not served as a stand-alone entrée. I’d gladly order it time and time again.

            Desserts, all of which are made in-house, provide a scrumptious conclusion to the evening. I forego the more traditional tiramisu and gladly dig into espresso ice cream topped with broken biscotti pieces and creamy nutella.

            Service is extremely polished and genial. Our waitress effortlessly recites the menu from front to back and confidently makes suggestions based on the fact that she has sampled every item (an impressive feat). Earlier in our meal, when I inquire if Licor 43 (a vanilla-flavored Spanish licquer) is available, she warmly smiles and recalls enjoying Licor 43 and Coke during her days studying abroad in Spain several years ago. When she reveals that she studied in Sevilla - where I, myself studied as well – a fun conversation ensues. Before we know it, my wife and I have been at Caffe Bella for over an hour and a half.

            Where did all the time go? And how did I end up so thoroughly enjoying my experience in this strip mall locale? Caffe Bella casts conventional wisdom aside by proving that there is always a time and a place for great food and exceptional service, strip malls be damned.

Posto a Fine Addition to Somerville Dining Scene

Posto, which opened to wide acclaim in 2009 in Somerville’s Davis Square neighborhood (and was named one of Boston Magazine’s Top 50 restaurants in 2011), is an upscale wood fired Italian restaurant and pizza parlor that, for the most part, manages to achieve decent marks.


Three years after its opening, the lengthy lines forming outside at 9:30 in the evening are indicative of this bustling bistro’s ever-growing popularity. Posto’s floor plan works marvelously, including a sleek bar to the back left of the room with black wine racks adorning the walls, which give way to a most impressive site: a giant open kitchen where diners can view their meals being prepared by a team of chefs. The kitchen’s piece de resistance is an Italian wood burning oven in which neopolitan pizzas are cooked in excess of 850 degrees (Posto’s pies are the only ones locally with the distinction of being certified by the Verace Pizza Napoletana or VPN). There’s also a more private backroom area adjacent to the kitchen. Posto’s cathedral ceilings and acoustics however, make for a rather loud setting and challenging conversation (although our friends insist that Posto’s owners’ newer establishment, Painted Burro, is far worse in terms of noise level).

Appetizers open strong. While the Crisp Calamari ($7) are more soggy than crispy in texture and come with a disappointingly bland pine nut romesco sauce, the rosemary sea salt bread ($2.5), baked to order, is divine, salty-doughy goodness. My favorite dish of the evening consisted of a quartet of tender lamb meatballs ($6), the meat swimming in a unique goat cheese crema, sweetened by apricot mostarda and mint gremolata, and which packed a surprising, yet welcomed touch of heat which, our server responded when questioned, originated from a dash of chili flakes.

Entrees were also noteworthy, particularly Posto’s pasta dishes. I could easily have devoured the ultra-tender beef short rib with potato gnocchi, soaked in port wine and parmesan crema ($23), for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It came highly recommended by our server, and it was superb. Also impressive was the crab toretellini ($22) with squash puree. Like the aforementioned short rib dish, Posto does not skimp on meat or seafood when incorporating them into their pasta dishes. The Posto Steak Burger ($15) has been recognized on many critics’ lists as one of Boston’s best burgers, and the sandwich deserves such merit. The uber-tender meat, which has a nice char and is a juicy served medium rear, consists of a unique blend of quality meat - archer form short rib and sirloin. Plopped on a warm, buttery brioche bun and served with crispy sea salt fries, it’s upscale comfort food at its finest. Most disappointing, however, was Posto’s much hyped pizza. The porchetta ($18) pie consisted of San Marzano, fior di latte, Swiss chard, slow roasted pork, roasted garlic, and red onion. What sounded like a meat-lover’s paradise fell far short of expectations as a result of an overly doughy, chewy pizza with a limp base that made lifting/eating slices virtually impossible. The pork was also excessively dry. The pizza might be VPN certified, but perhaps Posto needs a Neopolitan chef to properly cook Neopolitan-quality pies in its oven?

Inventive cocktails were exceptionally prepared, particularly pumpkin spiced sangria ($8), which was light, refreshing, and just potent enough. Our server, upon ordering it, beamed, “It’s terrific. The owner actually ferments the pumpkin right here in our basement.” Other seasonal concoctions included a spiced apple martini with local apple cider ($9). Posto’s beer selection is narrow, yet interesting, ranging from a Peroni Nastro Azzuro from Milan, Italy ($5.50) to more local brews such as Somerville’s Happy Sol ($5.95). Posto’s wine selection is far more extensive, and it is refreshing to see an eatery offer these not only by the glass or bottle, but also by carafe (Posto also offers up entrees in half-portions as well).

While desserts were not as complex as the beverages, they did deliver intense flavor. An enormous slice of tiramisu blended with Taza chocolate is every bit as richly indulgent as it sounds, while a chocolate cherry torta (think of a really dense, slightly fudgy brownie) topped with Vin Santo soaked cherries is akin to eating a giant chocolate covered cherry cordial. It’s fantastic.

Service was excellent. Our waitress was extremely friendly (she instantly recognized the couple we dined with as regulars), polished (nary a wine or water glass was left unfilled), and knowledgeable of the menu (oh, how I wished I had taken her recommendation of the short rib dish over the pizza!).

Posto doesn’t knock all of its dishes out of the park, but for its reasonably priced cuisine, its hip, relaxed ambience, and great service, it’s definitely worth recommending.