Go big or go home. That has always seemed to be the mantra of
affable restaurateur Nic Varano, who began his empire with North End’s Strega
in 2003 and boldly followed that with his flagship destination, Strega
Waterfront in 2010. Strega Waterfront, located at Fan Pier in Boston’s Seaport
District, is 5,700 square feet of pure opulence, from its dramatic décor featuring
multiple fireplaces and flat screen televisions (even caught the Alabama-Ole
Miss football game in the restroom!), oval-shaped awnings, a large piano, and Italian-imported
flooring to the celebrity clientele (or those that may dress like and think
they resemble one) to which it caters. And this is an Italian-inspired
restaurant after all, didn’t you know? Mob movies are humorously played on
those rows of televisions, while large portraits including the likes of Sinatra
and Pacino adorn the walls. Hoo-ahh! The scene is loud and lively. But is Strega’s
cuisine under the guidance of Executive Chef Salvatore Firicano as bold and
exciting as its atmosphere?
Pricey
cocktails average out at $15 (paying above and beyond is a common theme at most
Waterfront-based restaurants, but it’s exacerbated across Strega’s entire menu),
and are served either on the rocks on ‘Up’ (straight up, martini-style). While
potent, these drinks are not quite as balanced as one would hope. A pomegranate
margarita with jalapeno packs subtle heat, but the sweetness of the tequila is
a bit lost (as it is in a similar watermelon-flavored concoction). A dining
companion’s Bee’s Knees swaps out gin for bourbon, but in this case, the honey
and simply syrup with which it is infused is poured with a heavy hand, the
drink far too sweet. The Knight Time tastes purely of bourbon, with nary a
trace of Grand Marnier, and is quickly removed and substituted with a much more
balanced, refreshing beverage consisting of port wine, ginger, and pineapple
that lingers on the palate. If cocktails aren’t your preference, the wine list unsurprisingly
leans heavily on Italian varieties, but others hail from France and California
as well, some reasonably and others, well, not-so-reasonably priced.
Appetizers
are also hit or miss. The surprise of the evening, a lovely roasted beet salad
($16), fares the strongest, the beets just firm enough and sweetened with
drizzles of local organic honey, with tart whipped ricotta that balances the
sweetness and toasted pine nuts that provide a crunchy textural contrast. While
pepper-encrusted ahi tuna carpaccio ($22) is nicely seasoned with spicy aioli,
the fish is so thinly sliced that the fish itself is no longer the main
attraction on the plate. Fried calamari “Strega” style ($16) is merely average,
the squid rings’ exterior too heavily breaded although they go down easier with
a spicy arrabiati dipping sauce. The kitchen’s knife-wielding skills are called
into question once again here, although this time out, the accompanying
pepperoncini slices are sliced too large. The evening’s most disappointing
course, however, was one of its most promising: prosciutto wrapped shrimp and
pineapple ($22) translates to three so-called jumbo shrimp served atop massive,
succulent slices of pineapple (perhaps it should be re-named Massive Pineapple
with Wee Little Shrimp?). While the fruit itself is dynamite, it overwhelms the
plate. The shrimp themselves are a tad overcooked, and the prosciutto in which
they’re embedded - which does have a tendency to naturally be salty - is
excessively so and renders the fish virtually inedible. What a shame.
Entrees
fortunately fare better, most notably pappardelle Emiliana ($29), a hearty
portion of nicely cooked pasta with a comforting Bolognese sauce laced with
diced filet mignon. Even more comforting on a September evening heading into
fall is the Zuppa di mare ($50), a heaping bowl chock full of fresh seafood
including mussels, calamari, shrimp, and lobster, served in a spicy,
ciappino-like broth. Braised short ribs ($39) are roasted all day, resulting in
very tender meat, which is slightly underseasoned/undersalted. The dish could
also benefit from a different, lighter starch as creamy fettucini with English peas
is quite heavy and seems out of place with the meat.
Traditional
Italian desserts are also a mixed bag. While the cannoli ($6) is simply
presented, its crispy shell exterior and just-sweet-enough ricotta interior are
near perfection and serve as gentle reminders that the North End and all of its
beloved pastries are just around the corner. On the opposite end of the
spectrum, however, the tiramisu is presented as a large slice of cake in lieu
of the standard espresso-soaked ladyfingers, including a superfluous vanilla frosting.
Any hint of marscapone and cocoa flavors are wiped away with an excessive
amount of rum that’s been baked in. It’s the anti pick-me-up.
Service
is polished, as one would expect given Varano’s emphasis on hospitality and
making one feel as if they are part of Varano’s own family. Varano himself even
appears on the menu, pictured with other staff members in what appears to be an
opening bash event at the restaurant. Brash, you bet, but the restaurant
continues to attract throngs of customers, in spite of cuisine that often attempts
to goes big but seldom delivers on that promise.