tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53108427979428142082024-03-08T12:52:15.136-08:00Paul's PalateFood Review SitePaulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.comBlogger125125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-28667374083073295792019-05-29T18:48:00.001-07:002019-05-29T18:48:16.711-07:00Simcha Hopes to Bring Sharon Food Scene to New ‘Heights’<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">For a town steeped in Israeli heritage, it’s downright
shocking that Sharon has for so long failed to land a restaurant that pays
proper homage to the exotic Middle Eastern/North African cuisine of its
ancestors. That is, until now. Simcha, lovingly named after chef/owner Avi
Shemtov’s (a Sharon native himself), and in Hebrew translates to ‘joy,’
recently opened its doors in Sharon Heights (historically, a revolving door of
fledgling shops and countless Asian restaurants; hopefully, the eatery will
reverse this trend) following its initial manifestation as a Roslindale pop-up.
Prior to that, Shemtov – whose father, Yona emigrated from Israel to the States
to fulfill his dream of becoming a chef – served more traditional Israeli
cuisine (think falafel and shawarma) out of his highly successful Chubby
Chickpea foodtruck for nine years. Simcha’s menu, however, veers more towards
what is best described as modern Israeli cuisine (i.e.: not your average
bubbe’s receipes from the Old World). Think sharable, Middle Eastern-inspired
tapas and you’re on the right path.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Step
inside, and the restaurant’s cozy, swanky interior will surprise you. Behind a
frosted glass window (in which the skyline of the city of Jerusalem is deftly
painted) and a black curtain, you may initially think you’re walking into a
secret speakeasy establishment. To the right, there’s a mid-sized bar dimly
illuminated by funky lamps that playfully and proudly display Jewish star
insignias. The main dining room is tiny, yet intimate, seating roughly two
dozen patrons. The restaurant’s name is boldly painted along the left wall,
along with the mysterious <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">punim </i>of a
woman (my guess is it’s Shemtov’s grandmother). The restaurant’s inviting color
schemes are beige and brown (including the brown formal table cloths),
replicating the color of plump, airy, warm, and incredibly delicious
complimentary pitas that are served piping hot out of the massive giant oven
from which smoky aromas permeate the air.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Shemtov’s
creative menu is broken out into three sections: Salatim (small bites), Mezze
(larger, sharable tapas), and Something Larger (entrée-size). Starting with the
Salatim, while the hummus ($13) is light and creamy, consisting of Maine
soldier beans tinged with tahini, garlic and evoo, it’s disappointingly bland
and could benefit from additional seasoning. Also, there could simply be much
more of it rendered on the plate to support the three aforementioned pitas
(it’s barely enough for two). I’m always of fan of establishments that utilize
locally sourced products, and Shemtov makes fine use of nearby Ward Farm’s
carrot sticks ($13). Perhaps, though, the menu item should be labeled carrot
stick (singular). While I admired the char on the vegetable and the unique
flavors stemming from orange blossom syrup and Moroccan spices, it appeared
that one carrot was sliced into several scrawny sticks. Carrots are a
relatively cheap vegetable to purchase, so why is Simcha skimping on portion
size here? I experienced this very problem with the seared eggplant ($12), pan
seared and whose flavors generally popped with roasted red peppers and smoked
onion puree with balsamic. But if you asked me if I could delineate between a
trio of Indian, Thai and Chinese varieties that the menu insists are there,
then you’re a more astute diner than I (one version was decent while another
was excessively bitter to the degree of burnt).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Mezze
fare better, including a generous portion of calamari ($16), whose fresh
tentacles and rings have a nicely balanced texture between the crunchy crackle
of a lightly breaded exterior and the squishy tenderness of the fish’s
interior. The dish is further enhanced by a welcomed, heated spike of zhoug, a
chili-pepper and garlic infused hot sauce originating in Yemenite cuisine. My
personal favorite menu item is Shemtov’s innovative Middle Eastern riff on
traditional French fries, this time served up as fried rutabaga ($9), doused
with a delectable pomegranate molasses sauce that I was reluctant to share.
Short rib poutine ($13), however, was another downer given its (sense a theme
here?) inadequate portion of chickpea polenta fries topped with meat that (you
guessed it) lacked seasoning that would have invigorated the otherwise creamy
potato slivers that were nicely plated tic-tac-toe style.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Having
sampled the Yemenite fried chicken ($24) entrée, it’s easy to understand why
it’s Simcha’s staple dish (although it doesn’t quite reach the flavor profile
pinnacle that those wonderful rutabaga fries had achieved). The bird is brined
and battered in chickpea flour, unapologetically cooked in gluttonous schmaltz
(chicken fat) to moisten and enhance the white and dark meat’s flavor, and
dipped in a vibrant, zesty pool of red zhoug.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Desserts
were a mixed bag. A semi-dry chocolate lava cake was much too hastily brought
tableside (our generally knowledgeable and affable server, during his lone
misstep of the evening, stated that it was a leftover slice from an anniversary
cake baked moments before), whereas a giant, marshmallow-infused whoopie pie
drew praise across our table. Regardless, it was a bit baffling that none of
these selections drew from Middle Eastern influences.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>A small,
select list of cocktails were well executed (including a spicy jalapeno infused
margarita and a refreshing bourbon blended with brown sugar lemonade with
candied lemon peel), but at $13 a pop, I would expect a far more generous pour
of alcohol in my concoction in lieu of over half of my glass packed with ice. An
interesting offering of craft beers – both canned and on tap – span across the
New England region, including a double IPA from Fall River.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I am
rooting for Simcha to succeed. The town of Sharon has been clamoring for an
upscale eatery for years and it appears to have finally arrived. Shemtov and
his energetic team are undoubtedly giving Simcha along with the local dining
community their best shot. With some minor tweaks in the kitchen and a slight
reduction in price points to more accurately reflect their portion sizes, this
eatery will then become a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">simcha</i> to
behold.</span></div>
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Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-48706510433782862462019-03-16T15:47:00.002-07:002019-03-16T15:47:53.993-07:00Blessed Union of History and Cuisine in Foxborough<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Sometimes, it's comforting to take
a friend's advice – particularly as it relates to comfort food. Having recently
dined out with some of mine recently, they were eager to highlight an upscale
American restaurant, Union Straw, that had recently opened in Foxborough
Common, and what a positive dining experience they had. It piqued my culinary
curiosity, to say the least.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Union Straw’s owners understand and
pay a respectful nod towards the town's history. Their establishment is named
after Union Straw Works, a factory that once employed thousands of workers and
was situated a couple of blocks away. The factory put Foxborough on the map as
a major force in commerce and industry until its demise by fire in 1900. The
eatery itself is housed in a space previously occupied by the Foxborough
American Legion Post 93. Union’s interior gives way to a much larger building
than its quaint external appearance portends, sleekly extending from front to
back (a lively bar to the left, a dining room to the right, and a smaller
dining area at the rear) and possessing a rustic, yet contemporary charm, with
trussed beams and gleaming hardwood floors. My only complaint with the
building? A lack of parking spaces, which gleaming through the general
manager's responses to recent diner reviews, the Union team appears to be
working on rectifying with town officials (I'll bet the American Legion never
anticipated such a crowd!).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">While the cuisine is characterized
as upscale American, the offerings – created and flawlessly executed by talented
Executive Chef Jenn Mekler along with a talented, up-and-coming Executive Sous Chef
Kam Booth- are frequently fun, unpretentious, inventive riffs on American
classics. If you can work your way through a perplexingly large number of paper
menus (again, the restaurant is working through these minor hiccups), you'll
find exciting flatbreads including the Sweet and Savory ($14), a nicely crisped
pie with fig jam, caramelized onions, balsamic reduction, creamy ricotta, and a
boatload of prosciutto that struck the perfect balanced flavor trio of saltiness,
tartness, and sweetness. A pair of pulled chicken sliders ($10) also impressed,
the bird moist in texture and slathered with dry rub, housemade quickles and
embedded within a warm mini Ciabbata roll. A heaping, vertical stack of piping
hot parmesan frites ($9) doused with garlic aioli and served with spicy ketchup
were also quickly consumed. Salads, too, often playing second fiddle to more exciting
(i.e. meaty) menu options, left a mark, including the PBG ($10), a fresh
harbinger of spring with its lively mix of pear, bacon, and goat cheese.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The restaurant insists on its
website that patrons are welcomed to eat only dessert if they so choose. I highly
encourage every reader to come to Union Straw if not for their innovative,
delectable selections, including ice cream made in-house, including mint
chocolate chip and coconut (with fresh coconut slices meshed inside each
scoop). Selecting the latter flavor to accompany a coconut rum cake was one of my
finest dining choices in recent memory. This version wasn’t your traditionally
dense, cold, rum-soaked version from Montilio’s which I adore), but rather, a
fluffier, warmed, moist take. A special of molten chocolate cake with toffee
crunch was even more decadent, along with a potent pot de crème packed with welcomed,
strikingly bitter notes of dark chocolate.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Union’s cocktail program is also not
to be missed, including a unique, extensive beer program that featured a
special peanut butter milk chocolate stout hailing from Maine. Inventive,
potent libations included a pomegranate Manhattan ($12) and a cranberry Old
Fashioned ($11).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">For such a relatively new
establishment, service was incredibly polished, attentive, and friendly. It’s
no surprise how downright homey and hospitable the staff is, which can partially
be attributed to the oversight of General Manager Steve Pesek, a seasoned
restauranteur who most recently managed the ticket holder space at Target Field
in Minnesota. Given Union’s lively ambience and exciting menu, this certainly will
not be the last ‘straw’ for me (along with my friends, of course) at this new
suburban dining hotspot. </span></div>
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Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-45188868592707895352019-01-15T11:03:00.001-08:002019-01-15T11:03:42.079-08:00Square Kitchen & Bar Takes Shape in Suburban Sharon<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Irrespective of longtime culinary staple Coriander (once a
premiere French-inspired dining destination from the owners of Westwood’s
Chiara Bistro and for the past several years a very suitable spot serving refined
Indian cuisine but less than refined service), Sharon Center has widely been
considered a ghost town for fine dining, an inconceivable notion for such an affluent
suburban community. Now that longtime liquor laws have been relaxed, and Sharon’s
cultural demographics have expanded over the years, the timing seemed perfect
for the owners of gastropub Square Kitchen & Bar to lay down their roots in
the space previously occupied by pizza joint, Pizzigando. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">What should, however, serve as the
eatery’s primary attraction and draw is the arrival of acclaimed local chef
Rachel Klein, who oversees a smaller, yet focused and inspired menu that should
appeal to the masses. Klein, lest foodies forget, has been a rising superstar
over the years, having helmed the kitchens at Cambridge’s late, lamented Om (would
that legendary deconstructed Caesar salad be up for revival?), Boston Seaport
Hotel’s Aura, the sadly shuttered, yet boundary-pushing Liquid Art House, and
her recent venture in her hometown of Needham, RFK Kitchen. She has also
brought her creative flair to the menu at Providence’s beloved Red Stripe
restaurant. Sharon and local diners everywhere are now fortunate to welcome her
into a new location in which she can showcase her dynamic culinary skills.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Square’s ambience is intimate and
lively. The owner – a Sharon local - happily greets and converses with
customers, several of whom chat away at an L-shaped bar with the restaurant’s
logo brightly illuminated on a neon sign. Exposed brick walls provide rustic
charm to an otherwise modern space. Large glass windows enable customers to
view Sharon Square while allowing people outside to peer in and witness the festivities
inside. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Several locals - families and
singles alike – pleasantly run into one one another, seemingly relieved that their
town finally has a dining hotspot they can frequent. My one quibble is that the
supply of the venue’s space does not match the demand of customers –
translation: seating is a bit cramped. Service, too, falls a bit flat and is
somewhat unpolished one evening (waiting forty minutes for our drinks to arrive
from the bar), but that is to be expected upon a restaurant’s grand opening and
I fully anticipate those types of shortcomings to quickly be ironed out by the
management team.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The menu is broken out into
creative sections (seafood: Raw & Once Was Raw; tapas-inspired fare: Come
Share With Me; salads: All Things Green, more popular bowl portion, a handful
of entrees, and burgers). Prices are reasonable for high end pub food while
portions are generous. While the accompanying smoked chipotle aioli sauce proved
to be merely satisfactory, the zing of cherry peppers and the tartness of pear
tomatoes provided a nice contrast in flavors for the crunchy calamari ($13).
That same aioli was utilized for street tacos ($14), consisting of three flour
tortillas packed with raw tuna cubes. A little more seasoning to the fish would
have elevated the dish.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Very popular amongst my dining
companions were the Big Bowls ($15-$17), including the zesty Cuban Mama comprised
of an innovative confluence of garlic and lime brown rice, crispy tortilla, picadillo,
sugar roasted tomato, cabbage slaw, and avocado. Klein and her team are wise to
insert these types of healthy options on the menu, which are very popular
nowadays with more health-conscious consumers.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">But if it’s carbs you’re seeking,
look no further than the Red Eye Burger ($15), unquestionably my favorite item
currently on Square’s menu. This black angus baby is grilled medium rare to
perfection, the juices wonderfully seeping from the meat and into the brioche bun,
topped with delectable bacon jam, cheddar cheese, watercress, and a subtle, yet
satisfying espresso mayo (trust me, it’s divine). Paired <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>with the kitchen’s handcut truffle fries and
you’ll forget all about Five Guys. This patty may very well match up to some of
Boston’s best burgers (Craigie on Main and Alden and Harlow come to mind).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">If you have room for dessert ($11),
Square is nice enough to recognize and honor Sharon’s wildly popular and
legendary ice cream establishment, Crescent Ridge, by serving its ice cream and
sorbet. Take for instance, a black bean ice cream paired with a brownie sundae,
which Klein insists we take home with us to sample.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The bar whips up approximately a
handful of creative cocktails ($11), including a vanilla bean bourbon
Manhattan, the same amount of red and white wines (primarily from California),
while offering an extensive list of intriguing craft beer selections (many of
which are sourced from local breweries). My favorites included Hingham’s
Tempest IPA (Shakesbeer Brewery) and a bourbon barrel ale from Lexington, KY.</span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">In the words of the immortal pop
rock artist, Huey Lewis, it’s hip to be square. In the hands of chef Klein,
Square Kitchen & Bar is quickly reshaping Sharon’s dining scene. </span></div>
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Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-76965851885748293862018-01-23T05:58:00.001-08:002018-01-23T05:58:49.680-08:00Mediterranean Cuisine Comes Ashore to Suburbs at Chiara Bistro<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Twelve years after its much-anticipated opening, Westwood’s Chiara
Bistro still casts a culinary spell. Long considered one of the finest suburban
dining establishments in Massachusetts, the 100-seat Mediterranean bistro –
founded by executive chef/owner Steve LaCount and lovingly named after his nana
– continues to impress with its chic, upscale ambience, its polished, friendly
waitstaff, and its adventurous, well-executed fare.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Don’t
let Chiara’s suburban strip mall location (off of Route 109) fool you. There’s
elegance to be discovered inside the restaurant by way of warm woods
(California redwoods), Italian marble, ceramic tile, leather, windows draped in
glossy silk, square lamps, an alcove bar, and a modern exhibition kitchen.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Fortunately,
LaCount’s menu holds up against, if not exceeds the restaurant’s glamorous décor
(albeit at a high price point for suburban dining that is justified). A
complimentary bread basket arrives, which includes thin olive focaccia crisps
accompanied by a unique, refreshingly light, vibrant green-colored pesto feta
spread. An amuse bouche features spoonfuls of creamy cauliflower soup (much to
the dismay of my wife, who can’t indulge due to her dairy intolerance – this was
the only misstep of the evening from our otherwise excellent server, who knew
of this intolerance beforehand yet did not swap out the one spoon for an
alternate small bite).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Appetizers
were spot-on, beginning with a playful riff on a traditional Italian dish,
which resulted in some of the most delectable potato gnocchi ($13 for the starter,
$25 for the main course, the latter of which I’d highly recommend) I’ve ever
consumed. LaCount’s hand-crafted version features ethereal, ultra-light pillows
of the potato-infused pasta, whose flavor is enhanced by pairing it with
incredibly tender, thinly shredded red wine braised boar and beef shortrib. All
of this was topped with velvety sheep’s milk pecorino whose tartness beautifully
melded with the sweetness of the meat’s red wine reduction. It’s simply divine.</span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Almost as
equally memorable is the steak tartare ($15), a visually striking rendition
that consists of a generous, square-shaped wedge of precisely diced meat served
over sweet, house-made chips and a grilled baguette. The meat is nicely
seasoned and possesses the melt-in-your-mouth texture that a good tartare
should always, and yet (no pun intended) rarely ever has. The succulent grilled
lamb ($13) is served ‘lollipop’ style, is cooked to perfection (a nicely pink,
medium rare), and is accompanied by an intriguing array of Mediterranean-inspired
sides such as grilled eggplant, roasted fennel, tomato quinoa tabuleh, cured
olives, a welcomed dash of heat from harissa, and a cooling contrast of minted
lemon yogurt.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Aside
from that impeccable gnocchi, Chiara also nails the simpler dishes as well,
including four plump, tender, perfectly pan-roasted Gulf of Main shrimp served
over creamy mushroom risotto.</span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Similar
to its cuisine, Chiara’s cocktail menu is seasonally inspired, inventive, and
well-executed (most fall in the $12 range). Take for instance, this fun trio of
spirits: the Pilgrim Manhattan, made with bourbon and house made cranberry
vermouth; the aptly named Granny’s Redemption, rye infused with Granny Smith
apples and spices; and the Chiara Whiskey Orchard, blended with scotch,
bourbon, rye, chestnut liquer, a hint of maple syrup, and infused with roasted
pecans.</span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>And don’t
forget to conclude your evening with dessert. My wife gushed over an exquisite
tasting, non-icy coconut sorbet, resulting in her exclamation that Chiara’s
version rivaled Mistral’s chocolate sorbet, the best she’s ever sampled (and
she’s sampled many) over the years. The specialty dessert – coconut cake – was surprisingly
light, drizzled with caramel sauce and paired with an equally good dollop of
pineapple sorbet.</span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Aside
from the minor hiccup over the amuse bouche, our server was extremely knowledgeable,
attentive, genial, and spot-on with her recommendations throughout the evening.</span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Given
its exceptional service, cuisine, and ambience, I’ll gladly overlook Chiara’s
unassuming, outside strip mall setting and enjoy the relaxed, yet upscale
ambience, top-notch service, and creative, superbly prepared culinary treasures
that are hidden inside.</span></div>
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Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-9376629085430688692017-12-18T18:08:00.002-08:002017-12-18T18:08:13.846-08:00Dining at Eataly’s Terra a Guilty Pleasure<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">When news recently broke about celebrity chef Mario Batali’s
decision to step down as partner from his culinary empire at Eataly due to
allegations of sexual misconduct, I must admit that while I was not all that
shocked about his inclusion on the seemingly endless list of celebrities swept
up in these types of scandals (also, go read the Boston Globe’s Devra First’s
scintillating article covering widespread sexual misconduct in the city’s
restaurant scene), I was deeply saddened and disappointed. Saddened that the
orange-crocked chef - whose unbridled passion for cooking was obvious, only
exceeded by his willingness to educate and make accessible such complex recipes
to the general public – could act so foolishly by mistreating his female
employees who have been so critical to Eataly’s (and other well esteemed
establishments such as Babbo) success over the years.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>So I
must write this review as objectively as possible, removing any distaste I have
over Batali’s personal flaws and focusing on the actual tastes at Terra,
Eately’s third and latest restaurant addition (following Barbara Lynch’s more
seafood-centric Il Pesce) that’s now over a half-year young. Walk past
countless luxury specialty stores, and you’ll find the less-glitzy Eately,
which resembles a commercialized, massive Italian marketplace. Terra sits
directly above it on the third floor, and its breathtaking dining room is one
of the city’s finest, filled with towering, scenic skylights (look, I can see
the Top of the Hub from this view!), abundant greenery, and even actual shovels
and rakes adorning the walls. It’s akin to eating al fresco in your mother’s
extravagantly maintained garden. Just behind the chef’s counter lies an active
wood fire Italian grill where meats of all varieties and skewers are aflame in
all of their smoky greatness. Enormous wine barrels barricaded behind a glass
wall contain oak-aged beer on tap. And make no mistake: in spite of the recent
news, this place remains as bustling, lively, and energized as it did from day
one (perhaps a bit too rambunctious at times, and it is suggested to grab a
seat at the back of the dining room to allow for conversations to flow as
easily as the wine).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
menu is split into several different categories, as if to take diners on a
culinary excursion through some of the finest tastes of Sicily. Most
importantly, it’s fun, and executed by well-regarded chef de cuisine Dan
Bazzinotti (hailing from his stint at Cambridge’s esteemed wine bar, BISq).
Some may quibble with smaller-than-average portions, but be forewarned:
Bazzinotti’s dishes are extremely rich in flavor (sometimes a bit too much so).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>We
begin with duo of nicely toasted bruschetta (1 selection for $5, 2 for $9, 3
for $12), featuring ciascolo (housemade pork sausage), which unexpectedly came
in the form of a cold pate with a slightly offputting flavor, while the
caponata – with its interesting combination of delicate squash, pinenuts and
currents - was a rivetingly sweet delight, texturally resembling Charoset - one
of my favorite Jewish delicacies consumed on Passover. Next, we ordered from
the spiedini (skewers) section, including polpetti di agnello ($10): 3
oversized lamb meatballs ($10) which upon initial glance, appeared overcooked
from the exterior, but whose interior was succulent (although perhaps would
still have benefitted from a dipping glaze). My favorite, which also garnered
mutual satisfaction from my dining companion, were marvelously charred, tender
jumbo gulf shrimp (12), the fleshy meat spiced up with Calabrian chili flakes.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Our
journey continued into primi (things with pasta), which showcased agnolotti
coniglio ($21), small, pillowy ribbons of pasta drenched in Luigi Guffanti
butter and impressively stuffed with tiny morsels of ground rabbit. While I
found the pasta slightly overcooked (I prefer mine al dente, like most native
Italians) along with a bit of heavy-handedness with the butter, the dish was a
rich, decadent, and thankfully un-gamey flavored delight.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>We concluded
our evening in the secondi section with incredibly tender rings of calamari
($24) simmering in a zesty pool of tomato broth alongside a wonderfully inventive,
seasonal combination of caper berries, olives, pine nuts, and currants. While
our hearts gravitated to captivating, in-season dessert selections such as warm
semolina pudding with pears and candied pumpkin seeds, and a citrus crostada,
our stomachs simply couldn’t muster another bite.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The cocktail program, while consisting
of slightly modest pours (at about $14 apiece), were much like Terra’s cuisine itself:
extremely complex and altogether enjoyable. The stiff, sweet Il Teatro (under
Bold and Daring options, $14)) was a dazzling blend of the restaurant’s
hand-selected Russell’s Reserve single barrel bourbon with amaro, while the innovative,
refreshingly spicy Fumo Nero was a sweet and smoky riff on the margarita, containing
Del Maguey Vida mezcal, amaro, some more of that wonderful Calabrian chili,
smoked black sea salt, and pineapple.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">One would expect service at one of
chef Batali’s restaurant to be exceptional, and Terra, at least for this
evening, does not disappoint. Our waiter is amiable, patient, and extremely
knowledgeable about the menu.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It’s undoubtedly difficult for me
to promote any restaurant whose ownership is rightfully under scrutiny for all
the wrong reasons. But make no mistake: Terra – from its immensely enjoyable
cuisine to its stellar setting and service – gets most things right. I won’t
fault you for not eating there out of protest. But for me, consider it a guilty
dining pleasure.</span></div>
<br />
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</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-58931324302396663072017-08-05T05:20:00.001-07:002017-08-05T05:20:19.549-07:00Liquid Art House is a Culinary Masterpiece<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Several years ago, following the
economic downturn, upscale restaurants like celebrity chef Michael Schlow’s
long departed, yet fondly remembered flagship, Radius, succumbed to the tighter
budgets of their once loyal clientele. Smaller plates became more en vogue, and
so began the downfall of other legendary eateries including the recently
departed, highly regarded Clio under Chef Oringer (don’t fret too much for him,
though, as global small plate haven Little Donkey, Italian staple Coppa, legendary
South End Spanish tapas mainstay Toro, and sushi headliner Uni all continue to
thrive).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Sufficed
to say, with the economic upswing, there are more restaurants opening that dare
to be different – albeit quite expensive, but well worth the investment for
special occasion dining. Take, for instance, Asta, Alex Crabb’s inventive prix
fixe only menu that takes diners on a wild, delightful culinary adventure. And only
a few years into its run, there’s Liquid Art House, the perfect confluence of
literal and culinary artwork for customers’ viewing and tasting pleasure.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
visually arresting space – located at the corners of Arlington and Stuart
Street (how fitting and of no small irony that LAH sits at the cusp of the
Theatre District) – dually serves as both a high-end restaurant and contemporary
art gallery where all of the artwork is available for purchase. Owner Ruta
Lukian’s backstory is a most fascinating one: born in Lithuania, emigrating to
America, flourishing as a Wall Street investment banker, and ultimately
deciding to fulfill her dream of opening a place for artists, art lovers, and
diners alike. The ambience is impressively grandiose, a hybrid of cosmopolitan
and avant-garde. A striking rotunda marble bar resides smack dab in LAH’s
center, with an even more strikingly beautiful, massive, purple hand-blown
Venetian glass chandelier whose claw-like shape appears to almost be reaching
down from the giant 24-foot ceilings and virtually grabbing hold of customers.
Abstract artwork both large (majestic canvases) and small adorn the giant walls
and flows into the dining room. Even the bathrooms scream chez chic, as
evidenced by stunning semi-nude painted portraits of mermaids painted on
frosted glass doors.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Fortunately,
LAH has not lost any of its culinary innovation left by its notable
predecessor, Rachel Klein (who opened up her own endeavor, RFK Kitchen, in her
resident Needham to mixed critical reception). Chef Johnny Sheehan – whose
impressive pedigree includes graduating from Le Cordon Bleu, stints at
aforementioned Clio and Uni under Oringer’s tutelage, and most recently at
Plymouth’s New World Tavern) – has earned several culinary accolades, and it’s
easy to ascertain why. He’s not only followed the ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix
it’ deconstructed style that became a calling card for Klein, but infuses his
own unique riffs on some of the most exquisite fare I’ve had the fortune of
tasting in quite some time.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
evening begins inauspiciously enough, as a first batch of deep-fried salt and
pepper prawns ($19) are woefully and visibly overcooked, the meat dry where it
should be moist and tender. This is brought to the attention of our genial and
knowledgeable waitress – who, oh by the way, did not serve us this initial
course – and she is deeply apologetic about the mishap, stating had she laid
eyes on the prawn’s dark exterior, would never have brought this tableside (we
wholeheartedly agree with her). She offers to have the kitchen bring us a
second round, and this time they are cooked to perfection, the spicy orange
chile oil with peanuts now in vibrant harmony with the juicy, succulent meat
(the entire mishap and quick, professional correction by the waitstaff harkened
back to my visit to opulent seafood restaurant, Ostra, where a badly charred
plate of grilled octopus was quickly, and most deliciously rectified). While I
found the doughy, sesame-seed encrusted exterior of Himalayan chicken momos
($10) a bit too chewy for my taste, these dumplings stuffed with ground meat
were easy on the palate given the addictive, innovative pool of black pepper
tomato sauce in which they swam. For such a typically gaunt bird, a
surprisingly generous amount of tender meat accompanies LAH’s quail – the majority
of which is graciously deboned by the kitchen – and is uniquely stuffed with sweet
Asian forbidden rice which enhances the flavor component of what is often
considered by many to be the flounder of birds.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>And
Sheehan’s piece de resistance is not to be missed. Pan seared halibut ($39) is
unlike any other version of the meaty fish I’ve sampled. It’s a ginormous,
beautifully pan-seared (resembling a hash brown in texture) tender cut, and its
eye-popping to look at. Akin to an abstract Picasso masterpiece, there are many
deconstructed elements to the plate that miraculously come together – tiny,
crunchy hearts of palm, pineapple chunks, yellow-orange beads of jellied mango
passion fruit, and pea-green dollops of chile-mint vinaigrette. An aromatic
Thai curried coconut broth is than theatrically poured around the fish. This is
seriously complex, pristinely executed fine dining at its peak, resulting in a
smorgasbord of flavors ranging from sweet and creamy to crunchy and spicy. It’s
simply divine and will undoubtedly be topping many dining critics’ top dishes
in Boston for 2017.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Executive
pastry chef Ryan Boya’s uniquely shaped sweets (all $14 with exception of
sorbets) rival Sheehan’s dishes innovation-wise, many of which were apparently
inspired by the World of Tomorrow architecture at the 1939 New York World’s
Fair. Breakfast in a NYC Hotel Room is a deconstructed masterpiece, consisting
of a thin bagel chip onto which peanut butter and cream cheese mousses, peanuts,
and coffee milk ice cream, all of which is left for diners to playfully schmear
onto the bagel chip. It’s whimsical, fun, and delectable.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>And
that dish encapsulates my experience at LAH. And oh, what an experience you’ll
have. While you’re left with a bill that might approach the price of a
low-level Picasso (kidding!), you’ll no doubt me reminiscing about your time
there for days, if not months and years later. In the trustworthy and
innovative hands of Lukian and Sheehan, Liquid Art House has successfully brought
artistic fine dining style to Boston.</span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-22855988969944141392017-07-27T06:24:00.001-07:002017-07-27T06:24:36.864-07:00Disappointments Abound at Corfinio<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Sometimes, simpler is better. Several years ago, Peter
Kuplast successfully opened Italian eatery Cibo Matto Caffe in what was
formerly a Bertucci’s in his native Mansfield. That quaint, casual modern
Italian eatery quickly became a culinary staple at the bustling cross-section
of Routes 106 and 140, with its wood-fire stove producing bubbly, charred pies,
alongside delectable pasta dishes and inventive seasonal cocktails. A couple of
years ago, Kuplas decided it was time to expand his business venture into
Easton with Corfinio. The restaurant resides in a more expansive space once
occupied by Fresh Catch and its name harkens to the city in Italy’s Abruzzo
region. Portions of Cibo’s menu has been transported here, along with the same and
sometimes expensive price points given Corfinio’s suburban digs.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>But two
major problems exist here. Whereas Cibo’s dishes more often than not nail
flavor and execution, Corfinio’s falter. And while the menu at Cibo often
surprises and delights with its scope and specials, Corfinio’s feels
consolidated, redundant, and truthfully, not all that creative. More ho-hum,
traditional pizza and pasta dishes reside here with occasionally appealing
flourishes peppered in (fire-roasted artichoke hummus).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
restaurant’s interior is certainly swanky enough, with a grandiose,
antler-shaped chandelier dominating the main dining room, cozy green banquets
and a large bar (along with a 12-foot-long chef’s table where diners can enjoy
a 7-course tasting with wine pairings. It’s frustrating, however, when upon
making a reservation and stating that my wife and I were celebrating a 15-year
anniversary dinner, that the hostess explains she’ll have us seated in one of
said banquets, only to be seated at a small table (and that the restaurant
proceeded to seat a family with young children directly next to us when several
other tables remained unoccupied at the time). Not once was our anniversary
ever mentioned by the staff. That’s just poor front-of-the house management.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Antipasto
($10-18) are disappointing, starting with crispy brussel sprouts ($10) that
possess neither the crunchy exterior (softly breaded) nor fiery kick (bland
cherry pepper aioli that lacks any trace of said cherry pepper) that the menu
promises. Mussels saffron ($13) contain tiny morsels of the crustaceans, while
the white wine sauce in which they are reduced still reeks of the smell of wine
(if cooked properly, the wine odor should be undetectable), evidence that the
kitchen needed to simmer the broth at least another five to ten minutes. Two
accompanying large slices of grilled crostini, however, were decent enough, if
there’s a positive takeaway here.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Pasta –
a focal point and strength at Cibo – was equally and surprisingly off-key at
Corfinio. Fettucini Bolognese ($21) lacked finesse, with droopy, overcooked
strands of pasta (not even remotely close to al dente) and the
barely-there-at-all sauce that was not only unseasoned, but resulted in
dried-out chunks of ground up veal, pork and beef.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Cocktails
($11) were slightly better, but the bartender had a heavy hand mixing an Old
Easton (the restaurant’s riff on the Old Fashioned) that was excessively sweet,
the result of an infusion of honey and apple slices that overpower the bourbon,
what should be the drink’s star attraction.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I had
heard from close friends who had recently visited Corfinio’s that the eatery’s
opening kinks had been worked out, resulting in positive dining experiences. To
this reviewer’s eyes (and stomach), Corfinio resembles that annoying little
brother vying for attention and trying to emulate his older sibling, but no
matter how hard he tries, just can’t keep up and ultimately falls short of
expectations. With more sure-handedness and execution from its kitchen and a
revamped menu that generates excitement in lieu of yawns, perhaps one day it
still can.</span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-47219531869314408602017-06-02T13:46:00.001-07:002017-06-02T13:46:19.774-07:00A Stroll Down a Suburban Side Street Yields Big Flavors<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">“Come for the food, stay for the family.” Sure, this slogan
may sound cliché and most certainly has been exploited by countless restaurants
that classify themselves (some much less accurately than others) as
family-friendly establishments. But I cannot recently recall a more recent,
rewarding dining experience than my trek out to Norwood’s Vico. Opened nearly
three years ago, this quaint, refreshingly unflashy restaurant’s (seating fifty
patrons) name is apt given its Italian translation of ‘side street,’ reflecting
its location just off the town center. Vico’s furtive location, however, doesn’t
necessarily keep it a secret from the public. Far from it in fact, as evidenced
by the loyal customers who continue to pack into the restaurant seeking fresh,
highly affordable Italian cuisine.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Vico’s
setting is casual, cozy and intimate. While there’s no bar (only wine and beer
are served), several booths drape along the walls while pendant fixtures dangle
from the ceiling. The formality of white tablecloths is quickly offset by
wooden floors and even more importantly, a cordial wait staff. Executive
chef/owner Vincenzo Loffredo, who hails from Foggia Italy, makes several
tableside appearances to chat with his customers, while his equally affable
wife, Maria, dually serves as both hostess and our server that evening (her
inquiry following our appetizer course about if we desired pacing out entrees
several minutes was a simple, sincere and welcomed gesture that is incredibly
rare nowadays).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>While
Vico’s menu is considerably smaller than other Italian eateries, it’s packed
with a slew of appealing, tasteworthy dishes, and that’s not including numerous
house specials that change daily. Each dish is handcrafted, and Loffredo
credits his usage of fresh ingredients to both his proximity to seasonal
ingredients during his childhood on a farm along with his tutelage under chef
Franco Caritano. Portion sizes are incredibly generous (enough to feed a
family!) at incredibly reasonable price points (entrees typically top out at
$20, desserts at $7, and generous pours of wine – including a velvety, ripe
flavored Argentinian Mendoza – range from $7-9 by the glass while bottles are
very accessible).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Complimentary
house-made garlic focaccia and green olives are provided at the outset, which
prompted my sole quibble of the evening: the bread could use a touch less salt
along with an accompanying dipping oil. Antipasto misto ($14) features a trio
of fresh Italian meats (prosciutto di Parma, sopressata, and imported salame),
accompanied by provolone, roasted peppers, pickled eggplant, and imported
grilled artichokes. The salty-spicy flavor profile of the meats and vegetables
meshed well atop the crunchy, aforementioned focaccia. Entrees fared even
stronger, beginning with the visually striking Spaghetti Alla Pescatora (at
$25, while the menu’s most expensive dish, remains an absolute steal), which
showcases incredibly fresh, housemade squid ink spaghetti topped with ample
amounts of mussels, clams, shrimp, calamari, and scallops, all topped with an
addictively spicy tomato sauce. It’s unsurprisingly a huge hit at our table.
Also memorable is bucatini amatriciana ($19), hollow spaghetti blended with red
onion, San Marzano tomatoes, slices of pecorino, and my favorite ingredient,
pancetta, which infuses the dish with a crunchy, peppery bite. Two house
specials are also standouts: meaty, yet tender swordfish with capers and the
Pappardelle Cacciatore, with perfectly executed egg noodles laced with minced
lamb, veal, and beef, all in that same delectable spicy tomato sauce whipped up
by Chef Loffredo.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Desserts
are worth staying for given their value along with the housemade tiramisu
topped with pieces of dark chocolate.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In a
time where city restaurant closings are sadly occurring at a feverish clip
given high rents and high prices for customers, many restaurant owners could
rip a page out of Loffredo’s handbook: settle down in the suburbs, provide high
quality fare at affordable prices, and offer doting service to boot. Yes, Vico
may be situated on a side street, but it remains very much on the public’s mind
as one of the area’s most attractive dining options.</span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-26572814911115491132017-04-10T10:48:00.001-07:002017-04-10T11:47:19.492-07:00An Avenue Worth Driving To for Fine Dining<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Avenue, the brainchild of husband and wife Josh and Jessica
Foley (the couple met during their stint at the long-esteemed Harvard Square restaurant,
Harvest, during the mid-90s), opened in the epicenter of Medfield in May, 2016,
and as evidenced by one very busy Saturday evening, the eatery has hit the
ground running and never looked back. The Foleys envisioned a modern, casual
bistro, and they’ve certainly accomplished that in terms of Avenue’s ambience.
The building in which it resides was renovated, whose floor-to-ceiling windows
provide a stunning view of Main Street and the nearby Medfield Town House.
Pleasant, smoky aromas emanate from the open kitchen, namely from a
wood-burning oven. My lone complaints, albeit minor: the front of the house can
be a bit chaotic and cramped at peak times, especially if the small bar area
happens to be full of patrons. Nearby are small booths reserved for customers
eating dinner, and it’s easier than not to bump into busy servers. Also, in
spite of recently installed acoustical ceiling panels, conversations can still
remain challenging.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Josh
Foley, who also does double-duty as Executive Chef, offers seasonal American
cuisine, from wood grilled flatbreads and meats to seafood, in his attempt to
recreate California’s farm-to-table concept. In most instances, I am delighted
to affirm that the Foleys have succeeded.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Let’s begin with the bad news: potato crusted Point Judith calamari
($12) does the Rhode Island squid a disservice. While accompanying fried sweet
onions and peppers are an inventive touch, the fish’s buttermilk coating is bland
and could benefit from some seasoning in the form of salt and pepper, while the
tepid tartar sauce adds little anticipated heat. Much better are the wood-roasted
flatbreads ($14-16), whose nicely charred crust can be attributed to imported
Italian flour incorporated into a pie that is cooked at 750 degrees for only
three minutes in that impressive wood-burning oven. The aptly named Avenue
consists of house made pork sausage, wild mushroom, and onion jam. The jam’s
sweetness meshed well with the spiciness of the meat, whereas the kitchen’s
heavy-handedness on the mushrooms resulted in soggier slices than I’d
preferred. My personal favorite was the unique and satisfyingly spicy shrimp
fra diavolo.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Entrees
were even more enticing, starting with a generous serving of sausage
orecchiette ($22), the pasta served perfectly al dente, with minced, spicy
house fennel sausage. My dining companion believed the accompanying broccoli
rabe was too bitter for the dish, but I politely disagreed, believing the
vegetable a worthy partner to the spicy meat in terms of its flavor and
textural contrast. While the slightly dense potato gnocchi ($22) could have
benefitted from another minute or two of boiling to render the pasta more
pillowy and light, I nearly forgot about that having consumed a forkful of thin,
ultra-tender sliced short rib, which in this version is playfully served atop
the pasta in lieu of being cooked inside. Cast iron seared Scottish salmon
($27) also drew considerable applause, consisting of a generous portion of
moist fish seasoned with herbed farro and Tuscan kale.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>But one
cannot – I repeat, cannot leave Avenue without sampling their signature wood-roasted
Argentinian Brasa Natural chicken. I, for one, have remarkably never ordered
chicken out. While I certainly appreciate a well-cooked bird, it’s undoubtedly
less appealing than other, sexier options (lamb, duck) and delicious enough
when grilled at home. But upon stealing a glance of the dish at a nearby table,
I just had to have it, and I’m glad I did. According to our polite waitress,
the incredibly tender meat is attributed to how the bird is prepared, hung for
six hours and then slow cooked in front of that wood-burning oven’s flame. The
dish’s presentation is nothing short of stunning, evoking envy from the table. Inventive
accoutrements include a layer of crisp almonds, sweet currants, roasted Anjour
pear (which admittedly lost some its sweetness during the cooking process), and
what’s humorously labeled grilled peasant bread salad (a fancy term for Avenue’s
house bread that is sliced into small chunks with the bird’s charred scallion
juices cooked into them; The result? Gooey, crispy, goodness). The dish is
exemplary in terms of its stunning presentation, technique, and execution, and
it’s nothing short of a miracle that it makes me consider ordering chicken the
next time I dine out.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>While desserts
(all $9) may not be as exciting as that chicken, they provide an enjoyable
conclusion to the evening. Ricotta cheesecake is thankfully not overly dense,
served with strawberries, balsamic, basil cream and almonds. The inner child in
me allows me to gravitate towards the butterscotch blondie sundae, a warm,
gooey, yet ultra-thin slice served with a dollop of sea salt ice cream and
peanut brittle.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Inventive
cocktails ($12) from the bar feature a potent riff on the Mai Tai called the
Mai oh Mai, blended with white rum, toasted cinnamon, and pineapple. While I
was disappointed that the Fig Get About It (made with fig-infused rye) was out
of stock that night, the bartender graciously went off-menu to concoct a subtly
sweet, rye-infused cocktail called the Toronto that I’d highly recommend.
Roughly five selections of white and red wine are available by the glass
($9-12), including a smooth, silky ’14 Noble Tree Cabernet out of Sonoma. About
ten or so different New England drafts and bottled and canned beers ($6-8) are also
available, including a light refreshing Queen City Brewery pale lager.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Service
is knowledgeable, friendly, and - with the exception of a delayed bread basket
to the table and a couple of late-arriving cocktails – attentive. Pair that with
fairly reasonable price points for well-executed cuisine in a chic suburban
setting, and voila: Avenue is an address I won’t soon be forgetting.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-84575291238674354442017-03-29T08:00:00.002-07:002017-03-29T08:00:23.768-07:00Chicken Kebab Offers Big Portions, But Could Use More Seasoning<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Stoughton desperately needs an influx of restaurants, and this quaint Mediterranean-inspired dining spot, which inhabits the space once occupied by a Bajan restaurant in Stoughton's still dilapidated town center (where a town fire ravaged a number of buildings years ago and which remain vacant), wants to please its customers.<br />
<br /><br />
Chicken Kebab should be considered more of a takeout restaurant, but there are a half dozen tables inside for sit-down meals. The walls are vibrantly painted orange, and there is a large glass case behind the counter in which delicious desserts (including variations of ultra-flaky, moist baklava - my personal favorite, coconut flavor topped with pistachio) can be viewed, along with the restaurant's friendly owner preparing dishes in the kitchen. <br />
<br /><br />
While portions are absolutely monstrous for the price (appetizers top out around $7, while entrees that can comfortably feed up to 4 people top out around $18), some plates succeed more than others. We start with hummus ($5.95), whose accompanying warmed pita bread is comforting whereas the hummus itself is a tad heavy in texture and surprisingly bland, desperate for an infusion of seasoning. More appealing is a mountainous Shepard's salad ($6.95 for large portion) consisting of cucumbers, peppers, onions, parsley (which could have been inserted into the hummus), red and green onions, vinegar and oil.<br />
<br /><br />
Entrees are equally hit or miss. While the Mixed Grill ($17.50) succeeds with its juicy chicken and sweet grilled tomatoes and onions, it falters with its shockingly overcooked, bland, underseasoned meats, ranging from thinly pounded slices of lamb shish, adana (long, minced meat kebab), kofte (Turkish meatball), and doner. The restaurant also needs to clarify on its menu that the dish's accompanying peppers are intensely hot peppers - one large bite left me gasping for air. Pity that the restaurant is out of whole striped bass, which is swapped out for a disappointingly bland serving of sea bass. One dining companion complains that her plate's flavor is offputtingly bitter.<br />
Service is a bit disjointed given the small space and one server, but friendly enough. Alcohol is not served, but the restaurant does stock a number of interesting tropical fruit juices (including zippy ginger pineapple).<br />
<br /><br />
I truly hope that Chicken Kebab succeeds. Stoughton needs more restaurants like these to help enliven its town center. Customers will appreciate the large portions and affordable price points, but the owners will need to refine their technique in the kitchen to ensure a successful long-term stint. Chicken Kebab could both literally and figuratively benefit from more seasoning. </div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-49529055916266877502017-03-19T12:26:00.001-07:002017-03-19T12:26:53.932-07:00Easton “Lucky” to Add Shino to Its Dining Scene<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Shino Restaurant opened its doors in South Easton last
month, and local residents have most definitely taken notice. On a recent
Saturday evening, he bar scene is lively at the front of the house, where
co-owner Allan Yee – a bar manager for over two decades at esteemed Boston restaurants
including Jae’s Café, Sibling Rivalry (both now sadly shuttered), Oishii, and
Chestnut Hill’s Bernard’s – can be seen perfecting inventive cocktails such as
a potent, well-balanced Ginger Manhattan (infused with ginger beer) and a
Mezcal Mule (a playful riff on the Moscow Mule, swapping out vodka for tequila,
while an edible flower provides a spicy kick that puts the mule in Moscow). So,
too, is the dining room bustling with couples and families, while calm,
friendly, attentive wait staff keep service seamlessly flowing. Yee, himself –
a genuinely engaging owner who is excited to join the Easton community and is
eager to ensure his customers’ satisfaction – can frequently be spotted
socializing with each table.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Shino,
which is situated directly off of Route 138 in a small shopping plaza next to
the popular Mexican restaurant, El Mariachi, is conceptually based on a
Japanese izakaya, Yee states. The izakaya is a casual Japanese gastropub where
patrons can sample both innovative Japanese dishes along with more traditional
ones (many foodies may be familiar with this type of restaurant when O Ya
owners Nancy and Tim Cushman launched the trendy Hojoko in Fenway’s Verb Hotel back
in 2015). Yee and his business partner, Long Lam (the duo met at Bernard’s
years ago) have created a family-friendly, pub-like ambience that accommodates
nearly fifty customers. The eatery features several bamboo fixtures, and Yee
revealed that the term Shino in Japanese signifies bamboo artist. According to
Yee, it is customary in both Japanese and Chinese culture to offer bamboo gifts
to new businesses for good luck, and he laughingly alludes to his own bamboo as
lucky. No such luck, however, is needed here.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>My
recommendation: travel to Shino with either your family or a large group of
friends. That strategy will enable you to sample as many of the affordable,
wildly inventive, and delicious array of shareable cold and hot appetizers
($5-14) as possible. Spicy tuna buns ($8) feature minced, sashimi-grade tuna
lumped into crispy buns. The texture and seasoning of the fish are spot-on, and
the buns’ buttery sweetness is the perfect flavor counterpoint to the tuna’s
heat. It’s so good, in fact, that my in-laws – who often shy away from sashimi –
raved about the dish. Pork belly ($8) appears in soft buns (Yee gleefully
alludes to them as Japanese hot dogs), the meat braised and incredibly tender,
so flawless in execution that this once again gains my in-laws’ attention as
one of the finest versions they’ve sampled. Gyoza ($6) are fried dumplings with
a perfectly seared exterior that rivals its flavorful, minced pork interior. Kaki
fry ($7) showcases large, elongated fried sticks infused with potent,
fish-forward flavored oyster, served in a sweet pool of tonkatsu sauce along
with a spicier mustard sauce. Specialty maki rolls, including the aptly named
Route 138 consisting of fried soft shell crab, grilled eel, tamago, avocado,
and black tobiko, also impress.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>As
memorable as the preceding dishes are, the following dishes are considered showstoppers,
starting with the dazzling Shino wings ($9), Yee’s favorite menu item. The
wings are a shining example of the kitchen’s consistent, skillful display of
preparation, technique, and execution. Yee explains that he takes the wings,
pulls the bones out, and then lightly fries them, resulting in an incredibly
tender, easy-to-eat piece of meat (the drumsticks themselves are stunningly
served upright) slathered in a delectably sweet and spicy garlic chili sauce.
It serves as both eye and meat candy. Grilled black cod ($12) is also a big
hit, featuring an impossibly moist piece of fish that falls apart at the tap of
a fork, its top nicely blackened, the fish swimming in a pool of sweet, sticky miso
glaze. It’s a vibrant, lovely dish. Okonomiyaki ($9), a giant seafood pancake
commonly served in Japan, is extravagantly displayed with chili fish flakes
(that magically give off the appearance that they’re moving atop the pancake)
and artfully painted with lines of spicy mayo. The dish is packed with an
abundance of seafood ranging from shrimp to squid, and once again evokes adulation
from my in-laws, who had recently returned from a trip to Japan where they
sampled several versions of the popular dish.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
word is out, and the crowds are arriving in droves at this new suburban dining
hotspot. Shino needs no luck at all. It is the town of Easton that is fortunate
to welcome Yee, Lam, and their intoxicating, exciting cuisine and hospitality.</span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-34731410998819552412017-03-17T07:54:00.001-07:002017-03-17T07:54:11.485-07:00Leandro’s: The Perfect Italian Pub?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Blackthorne Publick House, we hardly knew ‘ye. Taking over
the space previously occupied by the lamented Blackthorne (where the food -
prepared by a former head chef at Providence’s reputable CAV – often excelled,
but the art and music vibe endorsed by its endearing owner unfortunately never fully
caught on with locals), Leandro’s Italian Restaurant and Tavern is an undeniable
hit. One recent Saturday evening was evidence enough, from the parking lot at
near capacity to the raucous bar and bustling dining room. Amidst the crowd
chaos, an engaging, humorous hostess whisked us to our table. Gone is the
artwork adorning the walls, the musical stage, and the dour black mahogany
seating, replaced with warmer, lighter colored tables and walls (but with
muted, more romantic lighting). Couples both young and old, along with larger
families, seem to be enjoying themselves, and it’s no wonder why.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Keeping
all things in the family, owner Michelle Refinski Leandro manages the
establishment, while her husband, Emanuel along with his cousin, Leandro man
the kitchen (both have cooked for well over a decade). Their Italian-inspired
menu is extensive, while dishes are generous in portion size and well-executed.
Prices are extremely reasonable, even considering the restaurant’s suburban
locale. What’s not to like?</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Leandro’s
features a modest, yet interesting and well-priced selection of wines available
by both the glass (a velvety, robust Joel Gott Cabernet, at $11, is a standout)
and bottle, while the beer list is equally impressive, ranging from Worcester’s
popular Wormtown IPA to a denser Allagash Black Belgian stout out of Maine.
Inventive cocktails ($8.50-12) – including the aptly named Midnight in Siciliy,
whose combination of bourbon and averna Sicilian amaro is not only smooth,
well-balanced, and potent, but whose dark appearance strikingly resembles red
wine – are most definitely worth exploring.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Appetizers
($6.50-14) veer more towards traditional Italian-American cuisine, including
stuffed meatballs with prosciutto. Surprisingly, it is a salad - of all things
- <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>that proves to be one of the most
satisfying course of the evening. A baby arugula (at $10, the most expensive
but most worthwhile salad option), offers the perfect counterpoint of flavors
and textures, as the sweetness of soft figs, crunchy pecans, and a lively
orange-poppy dressing battle for supremacy against the tartness of crumbled
goat cheese.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Grilled
entrees ($18.50-26) are an absolute steal given their mammoth portion sizes and
flawless execution. There’s nothing necessarily flashy about these dishes – but
boy, they taste mighty good! Take, for instance, the perfectly cooked, nicely
seasoned, succulent pork chop ($21) served in a not-too-heavy apple demi glaze,
caramelized onions, and served alongside crispy Lyonnaise potatoes. Veal
marsala ($19) features thinly pounded, equally tender slices of meat in a rich
marsala and mushroom sauce, accompanied by garlic mashed potato.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Traditional
Italian desserts (i.e. tiramisu) offer an appealing, if slightly underwhelming
conclusion to the evening. We sample a house-made carrot cake which sadly
tastes pre-made, the cake slightly moist if not a tad dry and dense, with an
insufficient of cream cheese frosting to satisfy one’s sweet tooth. I’d suggest
bypassing these for a chest-warming alcoholic dessert flight such as that
wonderfully sweet amaro or port sherry ($12).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Our
dining companions also inform us of Leandro’s weekly specials such as $1
oysters at the bar on Sundays and Mondays, along with Tuesday Tastings that, at
$20, gets you three tasting portions and a wine or beer flight. It’s this type
of menu flexibility, along with genuine hospitality, reasonable price points, and
nicely executed (albeit heavily traditional) Italian cuisine, that only adds to
the eatery’s allure and initial wave of success. Leandro’s restaurant team may
be all in the family, but it certainly appears eager to extend its culinary
family to local residents.</span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-18148675720821905832017-02-19T13:59:00.001-08:002017-02-19T14:04:33.554-08:00Nosh & Grog Provisions is a Pub Minus the Gastro<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Why ruin such a good thing? Formerly Zebra Bar and Wine
Bistro, a beloved culinary staple in downtown Medfield for 17 years, owner
Craig Neunecker inexplicably decided to revamp his fine dining eatery into the
playfully named Nosh & Grog Provisions, an unabashed gastropub that the
owner undoubtedly expected would attract a broader segment of customers. Gone
were the formal white tablecloths and famed zebra themed-upholstered chairs,
replaced with more rustic exposed brick walls, industrial artwork, and wooden
light fixtures. Quality food, however, doth not a re-invention make.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Don’t
tell that to the throngs of customers waiting at standing tables and along the
U-shaped bar on a busy Saturday evening (Reservations are not accepted, so
perhaps after witnessing customers waiting for over an hour following a 6 PM
arrival might prompt Neunecker to reconsider that policy). While awaiting our
table, we order poorly executed, small, exorbitantly priced cocktails (at $12
apiece, with several arriving in tiny copper mugs that allow for a mere few
sips), including the Spicy Valentine, a promising blend of chili-infused
tequila that is excessively spicy with seemingly little tequila and zero
balance, a tepid-flavored sangria, and a maple-infused bourbon cider that lays
on the bourbon, but <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>again, packs little
sweet cider flavor as a counterpoint. (My recommendation: order from an
extensive selection of beers that include a Kentucky bourbon-infused ale and a
potent, passionfruit-tinged Finch Chimera IPA). These are ominous precursors to
the meal to come.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>White
bean hummus ($8.50) consists of woefully overcooked naan while a white and
chickpea hummus’s offputting flavor is attributed to a heavy-handedness of
basil oil. Jonah crab Rangoon ($12.50) consists of three large, overly-doughy
wedges consisting of a filling dominated more by cream cheese than crab (is it
even there?), whose underlying house duck sauce is all liquid with little
discernible flavor that’s unable to stick to the rangoon’s limp, uncrunchy
exterior (makes me clamor for Chinatown’s much less fussy, smaller, yet far
superior version).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Entrees
are unequivocally disastrous, beginning with Nosh & Grog’s signature OH
S#%T Burger. At $15.75, the burger sounds promising enough, with bacon aioli,
caramelized onions, and mesquite ketchup. The burger, however – small in
stature – arrives grossly overcooked not once, but following a message to the
owner, twice, one initially ordered without cheese arriving with (but with no onions)
and the other with half-melted American cheese and what looks like a sloppy
application of mayo, not bacon aioli. The fries are oversalted and served
lukewarm, accompanied by a small container of ketchup that’s a quarter full. I
sadly yearn for a Big Mac in lieu of what should more aptly be called the
Completely Overpriced, Utterly Mediocre Burger. Another dining companion’s
chicken sandwich is likewise rendered dry, overcooked, and utterly inedible.
The entire meal is comped by the incredulous, apologetic manager, but too
little, too late.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>What a
shame. Our party would have been far better served at nearby Avenue, a new,
eight-month-old, contemporary eatery where we decided to grab dessert. A
dreamy, piping hot blondie brownie sundae and double espresso later – along with
an attentive, affable bartender who was the polar opposite of our friendly
enough, yet utterly inattentive waitress who disappeared for long stretches and
left water glasses unfilled – and it almost…ALMOST made up for our forgettable
dining experience minutes earlier. While Nosh & Grog is distinctly a pub,
it’s kitchen’s lack of refinement and execution make the gastro elements of its
new concept both literally and figuratively difficult to swallow. If this
establishment continues to fail in its execution of even the most basic dishes,
it’s path will lead it to a much gloomier Avenue: closure.</span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-34312540515809373652017-02-14T15:59:00.001-08:002017-02-14T15:59:57.704-08:00SRV Brings Venetian Flair to Boston’s South End<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">SRV might be short for Serene Republic of Venice, but on a
busy Saturday evening at co-chefs Michael Lombardi and Kevin O’Donnell’s South
End venetian <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">bacaro</i> (a setting where
small plates termed cicchetti and Italian wines are intended to be shared), it is
anything but that. The popular wildly popular eatery, run by the well-respected
Coda Group, is bursting at the seams with customers, so much so that the
friendly hostess apologizes for a slight wait in spite of our reservation and
cordially invites us to the side windows where standing drink tables await
those unfortunate customers that have to…well, wait for their drinks. And while
impatiently waited for several minutes, a cordial server offers us something to
dull our pain in the form, well…cordials, of the meticulously executed,
distinctly Italian variety. My dining companion’s pleasant, but not-too-sweet
and citrusy cocktail, the 63 Fairbanks, consists of gin, aperol, and
elderflower, while my bourbon and amaro (a sweet, Italian after-dinner
aperitif) strikes the perfect balance between subtle sweetness and welcomed
potency, a creative Italian riff on the more conservative Manhattan. Said
hostess then whisks us away to our table, genuinely inquiring about the outcome
of my son’s basketball game (I had previously called ahead and asked if we
could move back our reservation on account of his suddenly rescheduled game earlier
that afternoon). It was a sincere gesture that most definitely did not go
unnoticed and set the tone for a phenomenal dining event.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Lombardi
and O’Donnell, who first crossed paths at Mario Batali’s esteemed New York
outpost Del Posto, clearly possess their mentor’s passion for authentic Italian
cuisine, striving and succeeding in re-creating a communal dining sensibility common
in the streets of Venice. I would encourage anyone to take advantage of the duo’s
Arsenale menu, which at $45 per person, is an absolute steal, comprised of six
small-to-midsized snacks, two larger, entrée-style courses, two hearty pasta
dishes, and dessert. This extensive prix fixe menu represents a term rarely
uttered from the mouths of customers seeking reasonably-priced fine-dining in
Boston: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">value</i>.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>One of
the rare misfires of the evening is the very first small bite, an underwhelming
Nantucket bay scallop crudo with a slightly off-putting flavor resulting from
accompanying fermented beet. A soft-boiled quail egg, however, is magical, causing
my dining companion’s taste buds to suddenly perk up and exclaim that this bar
bite – whose creamy, intensely rich flavor is punctuated by an innovative dash
of white anchovy, caper, and garlic pangrattato – rates amongst the finest she’s
ever consumed. My ricotta-stuffed red pepper – whose blanched exterior lends to
a welcomed crunchy textural contrast - <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>nearly scales those heights, as well. It’s
simple in presentation, but like so many of SRV’s dishes, complex in technique
and execution while bold in flavor. </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Equally satisfying bites follow,
including the polpette, a seemingly ho-hum, been-there-done-that pork and beef
meatball whose interior is surprisingly, wonderfully tender, not tough and dry
like so many other less successful versions, no doubt attributed to the
addictive tomato sauce in which the meatball swims. Another traditional Italian
standby, salumi misti, features nicely cured Italian meats paired with sweet, vinegary
marinated olives that nicely cut into the meat’s saltiness. And if I’m
quibbling here, the phenomenal Suca Baruca – an ingenious blend of squash,
granny apples for crunchy contrast, and wait for it… lardo, for pure umami
richness – would have been best served as a luscious punctuation mark to the
meal as a showstopper finale of a dessert, not as a precursor to the
forthcoming meat, fish, and pasta dishes.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">But come those courses did, and
nary a high note did they miss, starting with tuna belly in Saor, the fresh fish
sliced into pieces and uniquely paired with picked cipollini (another ingenious
stroke of technique) and fennel grapes. A precisely cooked, well-seasoned,
enjoyably fatty chunk of lamb belly was equally enticing, served with carrot in
pinzimonio, quince, and a saffron yogurt that I admittedly forgot to utilize (and
that’s a compliment to the bold flavor profile of the dish).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Whooh! Have you caught your breath
yet? Fortunately, with the exception of a quickly corrected, small miscue of
the lamb belly a following the tuna a tad too hastily, the pacing throughout
the evening was thoughtfully deliberate and spot-on. A rotation of friendly,
polished, informed servers thoroughly addressed any dining concerns (such as ‘<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Can the Arsenale menu be split between a
couple where one person has a dairy allergy?,</i>’ to which the response was a thankfully
resounding ‘<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Yes, we can!’</i>). So it’s
onto the next chapter of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Whirlwind
through Venice</i>, with our protagonists discovering good fortune in sampling
Lombardi and O’Donnell’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">piece de
resistance</i>: a pair of hearty, grain-milled pastas made in-house, both of
which are spectacularly flavorful and unique, rivaling some of city’s best
pasta joints, including Central Square’s Giulia and Batali’s own recent, mammoth
Boston entry, Eataly. Thick strands of rigatoni are mixed with cauliflower and
mustard greens, creating a wealth of buttery, bitter goodness. I gravitate to
the meatier fazzoletti, akin to strozzapreti in texture and laced with spicy
sausage, swiss chard, and chickpea.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Given our whirlwind tour, I must
admit that the dolce (dessert) portion of the menu is a bit of a letdown, not
that Venetian eateries have ever been famous for their confections. While biscotti
misti (Venetian cookies) are playfully presented in a cookie jar, the cookies –
with the exception of chocolate coconut and merengue varieties – largely disappoint
given their blandness.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Fortunately, irrespective of this
minor misstep (and perhaps better crowd control mechanisms in place at the
front of the restaurant), there’s not a lot to dislike at SRV. With its glass
doors opening to an outdoor courtyard, crystal-cut pendants hung at different
heights, knotted rope dividers between rooms, and exposed brick walls with wine
racks, the restaurant has a festive, chic, casual, inviting vibe to it that,
like the menu itself, is a modern, fresh take on the traditional Venetian
bacaro. And then there is the open kitchen from which diners can view a team of
chefs feverishly working lock-in-step to seamlessly prepare delicious plates
that servers swiftly whisk away to their tables. Seamless, delicious, entirely
satisfying, and yes, ultimately a serene dining experience, SRV has masterfully
transported the culinary treasures of Venice into Boston’s South End.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-40897495041126384982017-02-13T07:29:00.001-08:002017-02-13T07:29:54.480-08:00Scorpion Bar Packs a Fun Sting<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Notwithstanding the culinary ambiguity that Scorpion Bar’s
name may evoke (“We thought this was an Asian-themed restaurant,” laughed
several dining companions, who had mistakenly correlated the popular, shareable
booze-filled Asian cocktail with this location), there’s nothing all that
confusing about the latest addition to restaurant row, located at the epicenter
of Patriots Place. Scorpion Bar is the newest endeavor from Big Night Entertainment
(Empire, Red Lantern) and reputable chef Kevin Long (Empire, Red Lantern,
Tosca), and it is an unabashedly Mexican-themed restaurant that doubles as an
exotic tequila/sports bar (the restaurant stocks 100 premium tequilas), perfect
for post-Patriots game crowds. Creative takes on Mexican standards include
tacos, burritos, and enchiladas.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
restaurant’s ambience, much like a Pats game, is energetic, if not perhaps
raucous (the restaurant transforms into a nightclub around 10 PM). The mammoth
7,800 square foot space that seats 300 patrons – formerly occupied by a
high-end department store – has been impressively revamped to make one feel as
if they’ve been transported to Mexico itself. You half-expect Johnny Depp to
join the festivities as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pirates of the
Caribbean’s </i>Captain Jack Sparrow given the wood-planked windows adorned with
skulls and sangrias playfully served in glass skulls. Wrought-iron chandeliers
hang from high, mirrored walls while imported Mexican crosses are in full view.
There’s no sign of Toby Keith here (his restaurant looms nearby), as rock and
roll music is loud and abundant (be warned: acoustics make for incredibly
challenging conversation, particularly with large groups). A giant LED TV rests
against one wall while several other hi-def monitors blare at the large bar
directly across the room. Security guards monitor the entrance and oddly
enough, the hallway to the bathrooms. Scantily clad, seductive waitresses in
black tank tops politely – and frequently – ask if you’d like a refill on your
cocktail. That aforementioned scorpion bowl actually does make an appearance
here, and several tables delightfully sip from their straws on the
Patriots-inspired monster-truck of a drink, the Gronkerita (at $44, a homage to
the menacing tight end). Even people dressed in dog and unicorn costumes show
up (I was expecting Scott Zolak to subsequently appear in a ‘Unicorn and
Showponies shirt).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
menu is laced with items that include an appealing variety of appetizers, such
as nicely chili-powder dusted tortilla chips (although the accompanying salsa
was disappointingly bland and loose in texture), jalapeno fried ravioli, and a
memorable Mexican riff on traditional French fries that was a hit with our
table – papas fritas, served with an addictively spicy garlic sauce. Also
noteworthy were flaky, meat and potato filled empanadas and carne asada Philly
rolls, featuring steak, peppers, balsamic ranch and cream cheese. My one
complaint is that the menu, particularly its entrée selections, needs more
focus and consolidation. A whole host of steak, chicken and pork offerings
exist across taco, burritos, and enchiladas sections, and the menu can be
redundant, confusing, and perhaps overwhelming to customers, especially when
one is interpreting the difference between street tacos and regular tacos while
portion sizes differ by one or two tacos. My personal favorite?: ‘barbacoa’
style pork tacos laced with thinly diced green and red jalapenos, the perfect
balance between sweet and spicy flavors that mesh with the succulent meat.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The list
of tequila-filled cocktails, while inventive and tasty enough, are somewhat
watered down and not nearly as potent as one would have hoped. Margarita
selections range from excessively sweet (coconut) and smooth (the Cadillac
blended with Grand Marnier) to spicy (my personal favorite, the Jalapeno
blended with pineapple tequila).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
first iteration of Scorpion Bar took shape at Foxwoods Casino, while plans for
a third location are already underway for the Seaport District in late
spring/early fall of this year. The connecting theme here? It’s fiesta time.
And while Scorpion Bar is far from culinary perfection, the restaurant serves
up perfectly enjoyable, reasonably-priced Mexican fare with decent enough
cocktails in a relaxed, suburban location. Now if only we could have NFL Commissioner
Roger Goodell loosen up and imbibe on that grand Gronkerita.</span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-56161216634901400992016-11-22T16:38:00.001-08:002016-11-22T16:38:08.486-08:00Opulence on Full Display at Yvonne’s<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Locke-Ober, we hardly knew ye. Following the lamented
closing of Boston’s prestigious supper club after a 150-year stint, the
restaurant received a glitzy renovation of the highest order, transforming into
one of Boston’s premiere dining hot spots, Yvonne’s. In lieu of an exclusively
male clientele which was the hallmark of its predecessor for many years, Yvonne’s
– which opened in the fall of 2015 - <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>welcomes clientele (attractiveness seems to
remain in vogue) of all ages, both men and women. If you’re looking for
restraint, however, you’ll need to head elsewhere around Downtown Crossing (the
more traditional Omni Parker House is nearby, after all, Boston cream pie and
all). Although tucked away in a seemingly desolate alley on Winter Place, Yvonne’s
is no secret to the public as evidenced by the velvet-roped long lines awaiting
entry. It is an unabashedly messy, yet highly enjoyable confluence of many
things that somehow manage to work in synch – from Executive Chef Juan Pedrosa’s
jaw-dropping menu that boasts intercontinental cuisine to its raucous ambience
that honors Locke-Ober’s illustrious past while forging ahead into the future.
It’s unapologetically opulent, and don’t think for a second that its owners –
who also run Newbury Street’s sexy, subterranean Spanish tapas spot, Lolita – are
discouraging it. They’re embracing all that is boisterous.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Immediately
upon entering the establishment, you know you’re in for a special evening. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One is ushered into a small, enclosed room
where a couple of hosts warmly greet you and then open another door into what essentially
is a Rocky Horror time warp of sorts – 2016 meets 1850s. To the left, a library
bar awaits, filled to the brim with a very large party of people. A narrow
walkway ahead opens to another room that consists of a large bar to the left
along with the main dining room. Leather sofas and banquettes adorn the room.
Locke-Ober’s original architecture - mahogany wood walls and gold marble floors
that once embodied the restaurant’s elegance and sophistication – has been
meticulously maintained. There’s even a portrait of a woman mysteriously
shrouded with a black cloak, which, according to our highly engaging server,
was Locke-Ober’s annual tradition that Yvonne’s decides to honor should Yale
defeat Harvard’s football team (which sadly occurred earlier that day). Like all
good supper clubs, the dining experience transforms from dinner and drinks to
sheer revelry. And true to form, Yvonne’s transforms itself into more of a
nighclubby vibe as the evening proceeds. One will immediately notice the
acoustics shift from challenging to near-deafening as 9 PM approaches on a busy
Saturday evening, while the room temperature also inexplicably grew more
intolerable as the evening wore on. But you’ll no doubt feel much cooler
walking amongst the glamorous crowds. </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>But
beggars can’t be choosers, unless they choose from a massive amount of globe-trotting
selections from the menu. Tapas/small plates? You bet. Feasts? Certainly. There
are portions fit for both kings and paupers here. One thing is for sure,
however - no matter the plate, you’ll be eating like royalty given chef Pedrosa’s
adventurous menu that is altogether adventurous, approachable, complex, and
well-executed. Let’s get one little pet peeve of mine out of the way, though: don’t
confuse customers by breaking down menu selections into headers such as ‘Snacks’
and ‘Social Plates’ as they are barely indistinguishable from one another. Our
server graciously prepares us for what’s in store for our party of four – a
recommended 8-10 small plates that quickly come out of the kitchen. The restaurant,
however, is more than accommodating in terms of allowing customers to more
methodically order/pace those plates throughout the evening.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Onto
the food, the majority of which is marvelous, beginning with the perfect autumn
bite – four light, airy apple cheddar fritters, resembling miniature scones,
that are meticulously plated and seasoned with maple walnuts, sage aioli, and a
welcomed, heaty kick of curry oil. They’re delightful. Also highly enjoyable
are crispy tater cubes, and I’d eat Pedrosa’s innovative, addictive, deep-fried
version for days on end if I could, the starch wedges painstakingly cooked over
two days, and dusted with cumin, gouda, and accompanied by both a wonderful Joppiesaus
(a Dutch-spiked aioli) and a unique beet-pickled egg. Garden hummus is also a
table favorite, mixed with white beans, roasted squash, heirloom tomato, feta
and crispy chickpeas, although I found the concoction to be a bit bland. </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Let’s
just call a spade a spade: the stone fired pitas are glorified pizzas. However,
I’ll take this version over most of the city’s best, particularly the Havana, a
beatifically charred pie that riffs on the popular Cubano sandwich, consisting
of roast pork, ham, cheese, pickles, and yet again, a wonderfully potent infusion
of heat from chipotle oil. It’s a huge hit. Speaking of char, your aversion to
brussel sprouts will be removed once you sample Yvonne’s stunning preparation
of the typically bitter vegetable, which is sprightened by garlicky walnuts,
feta and a delectable Mirasol pepper sauce that gives the sprouts a sweet,
candied texture once they are fired up.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>“Tico”
tuna crudo is a clean, generous offering of fish served alongside jalapeno
vinaigrette, pickled mango, and black bean crema. An Asian-inpsired salad is
also nicely prepared, with the exception of superfluous chunks of dry, bland
fried tofu whose role as the crunchy counterpoint to the salad was already taken
by peanuts. The lone misfire of the evening, on cost alone at a drastically
overpriced $24, was the warm lobster toast. While the crustacean meat was fresh
and well-seasoned with a unique trio of crushed avocado, shitake chips, and
umami butter, it was wedged atop two tiny pieces of toast, minimizing the dish’s
full effect. It was the one dish that cried out pretentiousness and on an
evening in which there was thankfully very little.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Yvonne’s
also boasts a unique, extensive list of well-prepared, complex cocktails
($13-14) which range from seasonal (Pumpkin Spiced Mule, a playful riff on the
Moscow Mule) to more sophisticated options (Slow Motion infuses bourbon,
sherry, and amaro; the Enchanted Catnip is a sweet concoction of rum, tamarind,
lime falernum and a burnt cherry lit ablaze for dramatic effect; the Grand Dame
is a stiff, spicy, well-balanced, blend of tequila and ancho chile).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Desserts
are equally exceptional, including a moist cider cake sundae playfully served
in a vertical glass cup as well as warmed sticky toffee housemade doughnuts
alongside toffee ice cream.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>With
the exception of a small lapse waiting for dessert, service was fantastic. Our
waiter was polished, patient, and extremely knowledgeable of Yvonne’s extensive
menu, no small feat. </span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri",sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Restraint
is clearly not Yvonne’s strongsuit. This supper club most certainly is,
however, a messy masterpiece that illuminates Boston’s ever-evolving, exciting restaurant
scene. And you know what? I much prefer a Jackson Pollock over a Renoir any
day.</span></div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-7538285548402736412016-09-21T18:04:00.001-07:002016-09-21T18:04:23.685-07:00Café Nuovo Diss (Services) -es its Customers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Just because a reputable restaurant has long been entrenched
in Providence’s dining scene for several years doesn’t automatically make it a
fine dining destination. You see, fine dining, in this reviewer’s humble
opinion, comes down to two simple factors: the quality of an establishment’s
cuisine, but of equal importance, the level of service that one receives. Café Nuovo
- a restaurant located in downtown Providence (in the Citizens Plaza building)
that is well-regarded for both its global cuisine (the ambitious, fusion-like
menu boasts American, European, Asian, and Island-influenced dishes) and its
romantic waterfront dining, checks off on the former but, unfortunately,
miserably fails on the latter.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>First,
let’s begin with the good news. On the whole, the majority of the cuisine
emanating from the restaurant’s kitchen strike just the right notes. Take, for
instance, a marvelously crispy thin-crust pizza ($18), simply prepared with
garlic and evoo which accentuate the sweetness of shaved red onions that cut
against the sweetness of thinly-sliced pieces of prosciutto. The dish manages
to be hearty yet light, a marvel of a dish that so delighted our table that my
wife and I decided to re-create the recipe the very next evening in our
kitchen, calories be damned. Less successful was a disappointing dish of calamari
+ shrimp ($15), both types of fish fried and breaded with such heavy-handedness
that I could honestly not distinguish between the two. Not only was the
accompanying trio of condiments (a marinara-like Pomodoro sauce, banana-pepper
relish, and spicy remoulade) bland in flavor but were served in small dishes
for which we did not receive spoons for application.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Entrees
were strong, including a short rib ravioli ($27) packed with flavorful meat,
although the short rib apparently wanted to roam freely outside of the pasta
and its ricotta interior, which made for slightly challenging consumption. One
dining companion swooned over her risotto with jumbo lump crab ($29), a
sentiment that I shared over a dish also packed with generous pieces of seafood
including littlenecks, shrimp, and scallop. For non-meat lovers, a vegetarian
orrechiette ($25) definitely hit the spot, chalk full of artichoke valoute,
sugar snap peas, fava beans, tomatoes, pearl onions, and oyster mushrooms. The
dish of the night, however, was unquestionably the stuffed rigatoni ($28), a
majestic tower of perfectly cooked al dente pasta that somehow stands upright,
with each tube miraculously infused with pieces of veal, prosciutto,
mozzarella, and portabello, and topped with a rich portabello-madeira sauce.
It’s decadent and irresistible – calories, once again, be damned.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Speaking
of decadent, Café Nuovo’s desserts are a fine culinary conclusion to our meal.
While a gooey chocolate-peanut butter sundae (including a house made peanut
butter cookie) impresses, it’s the Pot of Mousse that is literally and
figuratively the eye-candy that leaves its impression on the table. Set atop of
raspberry and mango sauces resembling the Waterfire event that the outdoor
piazza often overlooks in summertime, creamy dark and white chocolate mousse
and cappuccino tartufo are enveloped in a chocolate pot, whose exterior bears
the restaurant’s handwritten insignia while a little chocolate handle adorns
the top of the dish. It’s grand viewing pleasure without being pretentious, and
more importantly, it’s delicious.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Now
onto the bad news, which hinged on our service, or complete lack thereof. Our
server’s name was Richard, which we only managed to garner by way of our bill,
as he never formally introduced himself to us. Richard packed it in from the
moment we were seated by the General Manager. Shall I count the ways? Neither
one smile nor one recommendation throughout the evening. Unless of course, one
considers “Six of one dozen…” when asked to compare two Pinot Noirs, or “That
guy over there seemed to enjoy this type of drink” when I clearly inquired
about an altogether different type of cocktail. Unbearable stretches where water
glasses went unfilled, wine lists weren’t provided, bread baskets never arrived
(resorting to us asking a busboy to bring this to our table). Wrong drinks
brought to the table. Wrong meals brought to the table (more on that later).
Rudely pulling aside more seasoned waiters (even when reciting specials) with
questions he was unequipped to answer. As for our final bill, it was
overcharged by $55, stemming from the aforementioned two incorrect meals. “Oh,
I knew that could have been a problem on the bill,” he coldly replied. You
didn’t bother to check the bill before you set it on our table? Richard, poor
Richard, how you have managed to completely sabotage our meal.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In
spite of Café Nuovo’s often inspired cuisine, it pains me to implore readers to
seek far better alternatives in Providence for fine dining. For a $200-plus
bill, one expects polished service. Instead of an informed, personable,
attentive server, we were left with poor Richard, whose motto was clearly ‘Service
be damned.’</span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-7225369509682664272016-08-15T09:45:00.001-07:002016-08-15T09:45:00.091-07:00Shipping Out to Hingham’s Alma Nove a Worthwhile Dining Trip<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Back in the summer of 2010, the Shipyard at Hingham bore
more of a resemblance to a graveyard than a waterfront destination,
particularly given its dearth of fine dining, which resided closer to the town
center (Square Café and Tosca). All that the area needed was a large outdoor
shopping mall and just the slightest touch of celebrity. Okay, make that a
healthy dose of celebrity, by way of the Walhburg brothers, led by actors/part-owners
Donnie and Mark and their chef/owner/restauranteur Paul Wahlburg. The modern
Italian and Mediterranean restaurant became an overnight sensation and even
spawned an offshoot of the upscale hamburger franchise, Wahlburgers (the
original sits immediately next door). The restaurant’s Italian-influenced name
is apt, an ode to the Wahlburg’s incredibly strong mother (alma) who raised
nine (nove) children in Dorchester, Massachusetts. And better yet? The food and
stylish atmosphere emit all of the love and joy that the Wahlburgers put into
the establishment and want customers to enjoy themselves. There’s not an ounce
of pretension to the place – it’s as if the Walhburgers are inviting you into
their own home.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Alma
Nove’s ambience is stylish, starting with its interior consisting of large
windows, mirrors, white tablecloths, and cathedral ceilings. A large, long bar
stretches from the entryway to the patio. Lights hang from a wagon-wheel like
structure across the ceiling. On a cool summer night, we elect the large outdoor
patio that overlooks Hingham Harbor and features a giant gas fireplace all
ablaze and fire pit. This al fresco setting is positively spectacular, featuring
one of the finest views you’ll find in all of Massachusetts.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>What
about the food, you ask? I had heard whispers from several close friends that
Alma Nove was overrated or had simply lost its culinary way over the past
couple of years. Let me be the first to quell those rumors. Wahlburg’s menu is
enticing, particularly given its succinct, yet delectable description of
ingredients (i.e. wood grilled octopus, fingerling potatoes, grapefruit aioli).
Courses are split into antipasti (appetizers, $11-18), primi (pastas, $25-27 –
although customers take note: smaller, more reasonably priced tasting portions
are available at $10), and secondi (entrees, $27-37).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>For
starters, potato-crusted calamari ($13) are lovely and smoky from being
prepared on the wood grill, served with fresh, juicy pickled green tomatoes
whose sweetness serves as a wonderful counterpoint to the saltiness of the tender
fish’s coating. If only there were more than a drizzle of mustard aioli for
dipping purposes that paled in comparison to the generous portion of squid.
Also impressive were a trio of handmade cod cakes ($12.50), whose perfectly
crispy exteriors gave way to a moist, fleshy, slightly sweet interior of
heavenly fish, which was beautifully balanced with an accompanying base of
smoky roasted corn and tomato relish that I would gladly bottle up and take
home. </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>When it
comes to pastas, Wahlburg mostly adheres to traditional dishes but puts his own
unique spin on them. Lobster ravioli ($27) comes stuffed with generous chunks
of lobster (i.e. even claw) and are topped with a distinct lobster-corn relish
and sweet corn cream sauce. While the sauce struck a nerve on my sweetness palate,
the dish manages to be an overall success given its successful merger of
saltiness and sweetness, all the while not being too heavy as most ravioli
dishes are. Orechiette ($25) is less successful, as the enticing combination of
flavors of pine nuts, slivered garlic, and Romano cheese just fester in
blandness, with Italian sausage that lacked much heat. The winning dish of the
evening was undoubtedly the pillowy, ethereal homemade gnocchi ($26) that would
make Walhburg’s mother proud. The pasta is light, airy, topped with truffled
Pecorino, and are paired with meaty, intensely flavorful wild mushrooms soaked
in Madeira wine that themselves could be served as a standalone meal. It’s a
knockout. A special of wood-grilled steak ($37) served over a Nebbiolo wine
reduction and incredibly smooth mashed potatoes is also memorable.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Surprisingly,
well-regarded pastry chef Christie Radeos’s concoctions were mild
disappointments, starting with the blueberry and vanilla swirl cheesecake ($9),
which lacked any real traces of said flavors and only a dab of promised
blueberry sauce, although dish’s secondary features including a candied lemon
rind and cinnamon cookie crust were strong. Chocolate sour cream bundt cake
($10) promised a moist, decadent delight, only to prove to be a dry, dense dud
whose house-made raspberry jam was more goopy than jam-like in texture.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Cocktails
were sweet and potent, starting with a spicy, Ginger beer-based Harvest Mule
($10) and an equally refreshing, spicy beverage consisting of watermelon-infused
tequila and habanero syrup. A9 barrel-aged cocktails ($11-14, with all barrels seasoned
one month in-house with madeira, while cocktails aged a minimum of six weeks)
are impressive indeed, including a smooth, well-prepared Old Fashioned (Salerno
blood orange liqueur’s sweetness nicely balances out the bourbon’s stiffness)
and even vanilla bourbon. And one cannot go wrong with the extensive,
Italian-influenced wine selection, featuring about a dozen reds and whites by
the glass and dozens other by the bottle, including a reasonably-priced Trebbiano
from Italy’s Abruzzo region ($55).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Service was adequate, if not
commensurate with the restaurant’s glowing ambience. Our waitress was certainly
knowledgeable, but her enthusiasm was lacking and never once broke into a smile
(what, no Mark Wahlburg onsite to lieft one’s spirits up?). There were minor
hiccups as well, including the time our first round of cocktails arrived after
appetizers were placed onto the table, as did serving plates (which were
surprisingly as small as the ones we used to dip our bread into oil).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Overall, however, Alma Nove admirably
lives up to its lofty reputation as one of the South Shore’s best fine dining
establishments. From its innovative, well-executed Italian and
Mediterranean-inspired cuisine to its not-to-be-missed atmosphere, in the words
of former rapper-turned superstar actor Marky Mark (aka Mark Wahlburg), there
are nothing but good vibrations emanating from Hingham Shipyard. </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-47629562307569576192016-08-08T07:21:00.002-07:002016-08-08T07:21:27.320-07:00The Beehive: What is the Buzz All About?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Back in early 2007, Boston’s South End was buzzing about a
new Bohemian eatery and bar that also provided live entertainment. Rated as one
of the top 100 jazz clubs in the world by Downbeat Magazine (other evenings, a
variety of other music concerts feature Blues, R&B, Reggae, Latin, Country,
and even Burlesque), The Beehive’s festive ambience made quite an initial
impression on Boston’s dining scene. But does its kitchen’s casual comfort food
ultimately make beautiful music as well?</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
Beehive’s atmosphere is unmatched, harkening to an intimate, albeit larger
college coffeehouse I often frequented years ago to watch a capella groups
perform onstage. Here, exposed brick, crystal chandeliers, low-hanging glitter
disco balls, and red velvet paintings bring to mind the eclectic, uninhibited
world of Baz Luhrmann’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Moulin Rouge. </i>There
are two floors, the ground floor quieter in nature with a lively bar to its
right, while a hostess escorts you down the stairs to a livelier subterranean level
where a hip jazz trio performs (another lively bar resides in the back) in what
feels like a secret club. Several young couples can be seen intimately
conversing, along with groups of ladies out for a pleasurable girls’ night out,
and even some families peppered into the crowd. Some customers are dressed more
formally (ladies in Depression-era dresses akin to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Great Gatsby)</i>, while others don more casual attire. While there
is no cover for nightly entertainment, diners should expect to be asked for
their credit card when reserving a table, as there is a $25/person surcharge if
reservations are not honored.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Like
the ambience, Beehive’s menu does not fit one size, consisting of offerings influenced
by the Middle East (i.e. Za’atar spiced chicken and lamb moussaka), Eastern
Europe (schmaltz fried rice, anyone?), and America (baby back ribs, cheese and
gravy frites). Selections are also split into portion sizes, while price points
veer slightly above what one would expect for said portions. Bar Snacks include
a “Bacon + Eggs” deviled egg ($5), which is split into two and nicely seasoned.
My dining companion and I devour our ½ egg in 2 bites. “Did this only take $.12
to prepare?” she half-joked, yearning for at least another couple of forkfuls.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Hors D’Oevres
feature an extremely underwhelming, under-seasoned order of crispy calamari
($14), our least favorite course of the evening that possessed heavy breading,
and seemed to replace the promising heat of jalapenos with subtle green and red
peppers. Much better was the BBQ Salt + Pepper Lamb ($15), served over red slaw
(would have benefitted from being served warm in lieu of cold, and was a tad
vinegary) and whose meat was tender and candied in texture. My only complaint?
A handful of small pieces of meat do not justify the $15 price tag. A well-seasoned
fluke crudo was appreciated by our entire table, with just enough lime juice to
almost label it a ceviche and accompanying thinly sliced potato strips that
leant a nice, crunchy texture that balanced against the fleshy softness of the
fish.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Main
courses fared the strongest, led by duck au poivre ($29) accompanied by the
aforementioned schmaltz fried rice (a German staple that is cooked in chicken
fat that gives the rice its rich flavor) pickles and mustard jus for dipping.
Like the lamb, the duck was succulent and had a nice sear that provided some
heat (jerk rub, perhaps?) and that did not require the jus. And unfortunately
like the lamb, 8 small strips of duck vanished from our plates in a moment’s
notice and made for costly dish that seemed more appetizer than main in portion
size. A heaping portion of vegetarian couscous, Farmstand vegetables and
tzatziki proved a much better bet price-wise, while grilled swordfish over
black rice, farro, and favas ($26) earned raves from another dining companion. </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Pass on
the desserts, which go unlisted on the menu (for a reason, perhaps?). A dry, overcooked
maple bread pudding elicits nothing more than shoulder shrugs from the table.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Cocktails
($9-11) are relatively solid, including the playfully named Blood and Whiskey
($11), a concoction of Irish whiskey, blood orange, and passion fruit that
makes for a potent, sweet, summery beverage that goes down smoothly. The bar’s
sangria ($9) is prepared with white wine and cucumber. “Interesting,” one says
between sips, approving of this unique version.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Our server
was knowledgeable and friendly enough, unobtrusive during the jazz trio’s set.
She neither added great value (i.e. little requests such as spoons for sharing
larger plates would have been automatically factored in with more polished fine
dining establishments) nor detracted from our meal.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Although
the Beehive’s vibe is unequivocally fun, all the buzz I’ve been hearing about
this place appears to have faded given its slightly above average, yet
overpriced cuisine (a $25 valet charge does not help matters). There are other exciting,
new restaurants across the city worth exploring whose cuisine my stomach is
eager to make sweet music with.</span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-57671503215924123502016-08-04T08:45:00.001-07:002016-08-04T08:45:26.215-07:00This Passport Worth Renewing for Global Culinary Adventure<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">One need not to hope aboard an airplane to sample some of
the finest global cuisine this region has experienced in some time. While passports
can be left behind, hungry customers can head over to Weymouth Landing’s aptly-named
Passport, an intimate eatery which opened back in 2013, that prides itself on an
eclectic selection of international tapas, and is helmed by owner Neil Kiley,
who also runs Quincy’s popular Fat Cat restaurant.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
entrance opens up to a small bar up front with a handful of tables for diners
interested in viewing bustling Washington Street outside through the large windows,
while the main dining area resides in the back. If you’re looking to dine with
a large group (i.e. 10 or more), take note: the restaurant is not all that
large, does not take reservations, and will not seat parties until everyone has
arrived. Wall murals capturing scenes from abroad along with suitcase
decorations set the stage for a culinary journey that spans across multiple
countries and continents.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
menu is divided, perhaps too much so, in a way that encourages groups to share
plates and experience a wealth of flavors. They fall into categories such as
teasers (very small bites, $3-6), tasters (small bites, $6-10), smalls
(appetizers, $8-14), and shares (entrees, $18-22). Teasers offer a promising
glimpse of what’s to come, highlighted by a delectable Thai-pumpkin coconut
soup ($3), a small plate that while only affording about a half dozen
spoonfuls, oh what memorable spoonfuls they are! The pumpkin base, custard-like
in texture, contains a subtle heat that emanates from an infusion of cumin and
cayenne, and which is superbly balanced by the sweetness of fresh coconut
flakes. If afforded the opportunity, I would gladly had licked every last drop of
the soup off of the small plate, an opinion with which our entire table
concurred. Equally strong were fried octopus with arrabiata sauce ($6), the tentacled
fish expertly coated (that is possessing a light, not excessively mealy texture)
and tender, while swimming in a pool of nicely seasoned, tangy tomato base.
Less successful were rather bland smoked whitefish croquettes ($6). While this
category of fish is not particularly flavorful to begin with, it lacked that promised
smokiness to better pair with the accompanying roasted garlic lemon aioli, and
was ultimately the least impressive dish of the evening.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Tasters
were a bit lackluster compared to its predecessors, including grilled lamb
skewers with couscous salad ($10) which featured well-cooked, if slightly under-seasoned
meat. The disappointing empanadas ($6), while featuring a well-prepared flaky
exterior, ultimately gave way to under-seasoned, un-spicy meat (although
another bite from a tablemate’s other empanada proved much tastier, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>consistency across the plate was lacking).</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Fortunately,
smalls more than made up for the tasters’ shortcomings. A house special of flatbread
topped with cheese, a wonderfully zesty tomato base, spicy corn, and
caramelized onions was a pie whose sweet and spicy flavor combination resulted
in it being quickly devoured by our table. Jamaican pork tostada was also a marvelous
take on the Caribbean staple, featuring wonderfully tender shredded beef laced
with a mango BBQ with some kick served atop a crunchy giant shell, the textures
wonderfully meshing together. A heaping dish of seafood paella ($22) yielded an
abundance of fresh shrimp, scallops, mussels, that phenomenal octopus, and spicy
chorizo served over wonderfully al dente crispy calaspara rice – just how
authentic Spanish paella should be prepared. What was troubling, however –
particularly for the vegetarian in our party – is that the menu explicitly left
off the chorizo, and when our server checked with the kitchen, he confirmed it
was not part of the dish. While delicious for us meat consumers, that was a
major faux pas that requires immediate attention on the kitchen’s part.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Desserts
($4-8) were nothing short of outstanding, led by incredible crispy, flaky
churros ($8) accompanied by a trio of dipping sauces including spicy chocolate,
salted caramel, and chantilly cream. While the dipping sauces are certainly a
bonus, the inherent sweetness and magnificent texture of the doughnuts made for
one of the finest versions I’ve sampled since my more gluttonous days dipping
them in café con chocolate in the cafes of Seville, Spain. Also noteworthy were
Neil’s Nachos (named after Passport’s owner, $8), which consisted of fried
wonton chips topped with bananas, fresh berries medley, and a piping hot maple
bourbon sauce that like the aforementioned coconut soup, I’d gladly lick every
last drop. </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Inventive,
well-executed cocktails ($9-11) are prepared by an incredibly knowledgeable,
affable, enthusiastic bartended, including the playfully titled Carmen Sandiego
($11), a sweet, spicy, yet refreshing summer beverage I’d gladly travel around
the world in search of, consisting of tequila, fresh lime, watermelon juices,
agave nectar, and muddled Serrano pepper. The Muddler ($10) holds true to its
name, enabling customers to “pick your poison” by selecting from rum or tequila
with mint, peppers, guava, pineapple, watermelon, and blackberries. A dining
companion’s resulting watermelon mojito is sublime. I glance at a bottle of
house-made Applewood bacon smoked bourbon, and the bartender insists he can
produce the best Manhattan/Old Fashioned I’ve ever tasted. I concur: served
along with a slice of candied bacon whose salty, sweety flavor cuts into the
bourbon’s smokiness, the cocktail is one of the smoothest I’ve ever consumed –
it was complex and simply divine. A coco-mo (rum with coconut juice and froth,
pineapple juice, shaken over ice) nearly rivaled the fantastic version I
recently tasted in Puerto Rico.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Seafood
paella snafu aside, our server was also highly knowledgeable of the menu,
friendly, and spaced out multiple plates throughout the evening that allowed
our table to truly enjoy our dining experience. Weymouth’s Passport has successfully
managed to bring global cuisine right to our front step. Given its eclectic
menu, reasonable price points, and fun ambience, I won’t be traveling abroad anytime
soon to obtain my international food fix – I now have my own personal Passport
to relish.</span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-6280288082144355862016-07-11T11:24:00.002-07:002016-07-11T11:24:53.686-07:00Cielo Has “Sky”-High Culinary Aspirations<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> If you’ve ever tired of the Tex-Mex dining invasion that
seems to have overtaken the region (like walkers inhabiting the earth on <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Walking Dead</i>), then look no further
than Braintree’s Cielo (Spanish term for “sky”) for the most authentic Mexican
cuisine I’ve discovered in quite some time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Cielo’s
authenticity can be traced to its ownership team, led by cousins Martin
Gonzalez and David Marquez, whose families grew up in Jalisco, Mexico. Their
eatery, recently voted Best New Restaurant – South Shore by Boston Magazine,
occupies a bright purple building in Braintree Highlands (corners of Washington
and Plain Streets), a remote location at the outer reaches of the town that is
starved for a successful restaurant following several closures in the past few
years.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Cielo’s
festive ambience is as vibrant as its building’s exterior, as customers are
warmly greeted into the intimate, slightly cramped dining room, which only
holds 12 tables with an 8-seat bar (on pleasant evenings, be sure to grab one
of the 16 outdoor patio seats). Wood floors, stone walls, well-placed plants
and artwork, and Mexican music blaring on the sound system all make for a
homey, relaxed setting. Waiters can also be heard warmly conversing with
Spanish-speaking customers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>A
complimentary basket of warmed tortilla chips is brought tableside by our
affable waiter (“Sunday is Fun Day,” he jokes). While the chips are decent
enough (not greasy, but a tad too salty), the texture of all four salsas (black
bean, traditional, salsa verde, and a spicier version) is far too soupy, making
scooping a challenge. This only made my wife and I more envious of a nearby
table who order a mammoth version of guacamole ($8.25) prepared by a server in
a stone bowl.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Entrees
are noteworthy, beginning with huevos rancheros ($7.99), a traditional Mexican
dish that Americans may more readily associate with breakfast. Its components
come deconstructed: eggs with chipotle and tomato sauce, rice and avocado, but
don’t be ashamed of melding everything into a rich mess of flavors. While the
eggs are requested over easy – better for the rice to absorb the eggs’ runny
yolk – they are disappointingly prepared over medium. No bother, as the dish
remains sinfully, spicily delicious, nonetheless.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Even
better and not to be missed are the enchiladas mole poblano ($12.59),
consisting of three slim soft tortillas drenched in mole sauce and stuffed with
warm chicken. The mole itself is sensational – neither too dense not too sweet
like so many inferior versions – packing just the right blend of bitter
chocolate and spicy notes, while sliced fresh onion provides a much welcomed
textural counterpoint to the soft tortillas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Desserts
(postres) once again lean toward more traditional, yet well-executed Mexican
fare such as cinnamon-dusted churros and wonderfully refreshing, light vanilla
custard flan ($7), beautifully punctuated with sweetness by fresh berries and a
drizzle of caramel sauce.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Cielo
boasts an impressive selections of tequilas along with nicely flavored, albeit
not-all-that-potent margaritas ($10), which include unique flavors such as
tamarind and hibiscus. Bypass the inauthentic, tepid coffee.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Overall,
Cielo proves to be a welcomed entry into the local dining scene, filling a
much-needed gap in true Mexican dining. Given its above-average cuisine, very
affordable price points, fun atmosphere, and friendly service, the “sky”
appears to be the limit for this exciting eatery.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-14316721352846761642016-05-24T11:08:00.001-07:002016-05-24T11:08:48.968-07:00Italian-American Fine Dining Lives (and Thrives) at Capo<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Who knew that Italian-American dining would ever be frowned
upon in foodie circles these days? Regional Italian-inspired restaurants have
popped up in recent years and the seriousness of the dishes those kitchens
produced have seemed to taken the pure, unadulterated fun out of what I recall
from my childhood – a heaping portion of veal parmigiana with an equally
heaping portion of spaghetti and meatballs. These restaurants have gradually,
inexplicably lost their popularity, that is until restaurants like Capo emerge.
Chef Tony Susi - he of the one widely acclaimed and now sadly shuttered North
End staple Sage – has opened up a 300 seat behemoth in – wait for it – the South
End. Wait a minute, Southie, you ask? Is Susi’s spaghetti accommodated by
Bangers and Mash given the historically populated Irish-American neighborhood?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Surprisingly,
the neighborhood works wonderfully, especially since its gentrification over
the past several years and a culinary renaissance led by the group that not
only oversees Capo – which opened in mid-February of this year – but also
successful eateries Lincoln and Loco Taqueria on bustling West Broadway Street.
The locals were hungry, and who ever thought they would gravitate towards the Italian-American
cuisine made popular in the North End? Whitey Bulger must be rolling over in
his prison cell as we speak.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>One
caveat: the restaurant is extremely loud. On a lovely summer night, the
floor-to-ceiling windows out front are open, and the gleeful laughter and chatter
from the hoard of customers can be heard from afar. The establishment seats
300, with two long, illuminated bars extending from front to back. Here’s a
recommendation: grab a booth or table in the back room where a large stone
fireplace resides – it is far quieter there, as opposed to the front room,
whose terrible acoustics force one to shout for audible conversation. The space
- occupied by younger and older clientele - is modern, decked out in white tile
floors, brick and repurposed wood walls and spherical lighting. Susi himself
can be seen in the open kitchen, in which his oak-fired brick oven pizza is
also visibly churning out smoky, nicely charred pies.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>We opt
to share small plates under the bar sfizi section of the menu, starting with
the creamy, dreamy short rib arancini with herb aoili ($8), rice balls
possessing a super crispy exterior and a fontina cheese center packed with
ultra-tender pulled short rib that left a dining companion and I consuming in
silence and with eyes closed in sheer pleasure. Roasted lamb skewers ($9) are
also a pleasant surprise, nicely seasoned with sides of fresh agrodolce peppers
and salsa verde that provide a cold, spicy counterpoint to the meat. My only
quibble? Wider pieces of meat on the skewers – akin to a thick slab of beef
teriyaki – would have been appreciated, as the thin slices made for a more
challenging dipping experience. House-made pastas come in half and full
portions. Spaghetti Pomodoro ($8 or $16), like most of Capo’s dishes, are
simply, yet well executed and nicely plated, served up in a hearty,
basil-spiked tomato sauce. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">While entrée portions are certainly
adequate in size and price (none exceeds $26 and most fall in the teens), be
forewarned: they are not at all humongous as other local critics have
previously suggested, and none come with any sides, although rather nondescript
items such as grilled asparagus can be had for $6-7 apiece. Veal saltimbocca
($25) features thinly pounded meat, tenderly sautéed in a rich white wine and
butter sauce, and is topped with prosciutto and a tad too much basil that gives
the dish a slightly bitter aftertaste. Better yet are the more traditional, red
sauce dishes includeing generous portions of exceptionally battered, pan-fried
chicken ($17) and eggplant ($13) parmigiana, harmoniously swimming in a pool of
that delectable tomato sauce along with melted mozzarella.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Bar manager Kevin Mabry is formerly
of popular, recently re-opened Boston restaurant jm Curley, and he brings his
inventive riffs on traditional cocktails to Capo, including a fancified
Margerita playfully called the Don Corleone ($12) in tribute to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Godfather</i> (the term ‘Capo,’ after
all, signifies Mob Captain in Italian), a sweet and sour blend with Don Julio
blanco tequila, Pierre Ferrand dry Curacao, blood orange and lime. A stiffer,
no less equally enjoyable option is a fun take on the Old Fashioned called King
Cole ($12), bourbon infused with ever subtle tones of more tropical pineapple
and banana flavors mixed with Fernet Branca. In the spirit of keeping all things
Italian, Capo boasts an all-Italian wine selection, including a rare, much
appreciated wine-on-tap program featuring house cabernet, Pinot Grigio, and
Rose available by glass ($8), carafe ($18 or $36), or for larger, thirstier
groups – jugs ($48).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Desserts are also noteworthy. A non-traditional
serving of tiramisu laced with tiny shreds of bitter chocolate brittle is
memorable for its surprising lightness and heavy, espresso liquer-tinged alcohol
content, although the spongy ladyfingers I seek are somewhat lost in the dish.
Rarely sighted, often underappreciated olive oil cake (which I last sampled at
Brookline’s Ribelle) gets much love here, the cake ultra moist and topped with
marscapone and honey.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">In spite of the chaos of the large
crowds, service was extremely personable, polished and seamless, particularly
after our initial waitress – she of self-admitted three days on the job – was instantly
swapped out for a more seasoned waitress who was better equipped to provide
recommendations once the front of the house was informed of my wife’s dairy
allergy. Several servers, in fact, stopped by to check in throughout the
evening, one of whom even checked with Susi to determine what type of clam was
used for my wife’s wonderfully garlicky-spicy order of linguine Vongole
($11/$23) given that one of our inquisitive dining companions often goes
clamming on Cape Cod.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Upon leaving Capo, one might
experience a headache given the extreme noise levels which one only hopes Susi
and his staff will quickly remedy. However, given Susi’s well-executed,
delicious, and relatively affordable Italian-American cuisine, there is much
pleasure to be had to offset that pain. Whitey, it’s a shame that you decided
to flee town way back when – you’re missing a highly rewarding meal at Capo. In
the words of Peter Clemenza from <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The
Godfather</i>: you’ll want to leave the gun and take the cannoli.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-80311295786935031652016-05-16T11:55:00.001-07:002016-05-16T11:55:59.846-07:00Banyan’s Bark is as Strong as its (Asian-inspired Small) Bites<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Don’t look now, but there’s been an Asian invasion
overtaking Boston’s dining scene during the past several months. From a pair of
Fenway favorites– Hojoko, Nancy and Tim Cushman’s wacky, fun, more affordable riff
on the Japanese izakaya, and Tiffani Faison’s successful ode to Asian street
fare, Tiger Mama – along with Chef David Punch’s rice and ramen-laden Little
Big Diner in Newton, Asian is the New Cuisine. And for good reason: other more
longstanding establishments, such as Joanne Chang’s beloved South End Asian
tapas eatery, Myers and Chang, and southward, Providence’s innovative, Cambodian-influenced
restaurant, North, have perfected the ancient recipe for success. Take Asian
small plates, put one’s unique spin on them, and let diners enjoy them in a fun,
hip environment. Also integral to the recipe are an engaged owner (Rebecca Roth
Gullo, who also runs nearby popular upscale pub, The Gallows) and respected
chef (Phillip Tang, formerly of now-shuttered East by Northeast in Cambridge).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Enter
Banyan Bar + Refuge, located on what I consider to be one of the hippest
sections of the South End, residing alongside the equally hip Beehive on
Tremont Street. Which is ironic, because there’s distinctly more buzz emanating
from this neighborhood since Banyan’s arrival. While the iconic Hamersley’s
Bistro and Chef Gordon’s universally revered roast chicken will be missed, the
restaurant itself, with all of its seriousness, seemed to be well past its
prime and out of touch with what locals sought. A romantically lit outdoor
brick patio remains a perfect setting for a late spring/early summer meal.
Inside Banyan, while the open kitchen remains, much else has changed. Banyan
tree themes permeate throughout the space, from floor to ceiling branches
(perhaps in tribute to the late Rainforest Café?) to twig-like chandeliers. The
quietness and solemnity that accompanied the older crowds whom frequented
Hamersley’s has been replaced by modern music and a younger crowd, both of
which can lead to rather loud acoustics (nab a corner seat in the back to
offset some of this).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The bar is adequately staffed with three bartenders to
handle a surge of customers awaiting their tables. And these are some serious
bartenders pouring some serious – and seriously fun- cocktails. Ours knows the
ingredients inside and out (all of them, he explains, played a key role
creating the concoctions), is personable and engaging, making for a highly
enjoyable pre-dining experience. The drinks – like the restaurant itself- are
unique and fun. The Supreme Leader consists of thai chile-infused vodka and
lime – “7 out of an overall heat scale of 10,” our bartender politely,
accurately warns ahead of time. The result is refreshing and spicy, although
promised coconut flavors are muddled. Several delicious cocktails are served on
tap (like The Gallows), including a potent Painkiller that features a dollop of
coconut milk foam and a stiff, subtly sweet Tangerine Old Fashion (akin to a
citrusy Manhattan, with tangerine-infused bourbon). And if you’re in for real
fun, ask for the Kirin Slushie, beer topped with a frozen cloud of what else? -
beer. This playful concoction resembles the boozy slushie machine at the
adventurous, aforementioned North.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
menu is split out into various sections, primarily consisting of shareable
small plates that one may ultimately not want to share. Under ‘Vegetables,’ the
Daikon fries ($8) are thick, perfectly crisped slabs of potatoes served with
spicy gochujang ketchup and picked ramp aioli. A lighter option includes a
lovely dish fresh peas and edamame ($8), with pickled onion strawberries, five
spice tofu and rhubarb. While the combination of flavors and textures initially
sound strange – sweet, salty, tart, crunchy, soft – they surprisingly manage to
work well together.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Under ‘Buns
and Dumplings and Noodles,’ house beef and broccoli wontons ($12) with
fermented black bean and marrow sauce sound appealing, but theyre a bit too
doughy and there is no seasoning to serve as a counterpoint to the excessive
amount of salt in the dish. It’s the least appealing menu item we sample that
evening. Better is the warm lobster served on a toasted house bun ($15),
accompanied by delicious honey miso butter and pickled sea beans that
wonderfully cut into the sweetness of the crustacean, of which I would have
preferred larger meat chunks. Best amongst this group was a clever riff on
traditional Italian Bolognese labeled seafood red curry ‘bolognese’ ($16), made
with house made ramen noodles (which are surprisingly absent from much of the
menu, whereas buns, are ahem…overly abundant.), crispy sweet potato, peanut,
and thai basil. While the dish is literally and figuratively a continent away
from what Nonna would make, trust me when I say that this spicy, uniquely
textured interpretation is a major success.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>My
favorite section of the menu involves Tang’s adventurous takes on ‘Seafood and
Meat.’ Smoked pork ribs ($9) feature incredibly tender meat that are perhaps a
tad too sweet due to a heavy-handedness with sweet potato hoison sauce and are not
quite smoky enough. “Takoyaki” ($9) is a beautifully plated dish of braised
calamari (in quotation marks since the tako represents Japanese octopus, while
Tang playfully swaps this out with calamari) that is converted into fried
spheres, topped with nori, aioli, smoky bonito flakes, and sweet soy glaze. It’s
lovely to look at and fun to eat – think miniature fried donuts, except the
flour replaced with fish. Also, don’t run away from, but instead run towards
the fried pig tails ($8), tender pieces of meat served in a rich pineapple
sweet and sour sauce, laced with peanut and cilantro.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Service
was unobtrusive and efficient. A dropped fork was quickly replaced, drinks
swiftly refilled or replaced, and our waiter was polished and casual. Altogether
a highly successful evening. RIP Hamersley’s Bistro. For Banyan and the South
End, it’s a beautiful day in the neighborhood.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-49810138040068120522016-04-07T14:01:00.000-07:002016-04-07T14:01:30.521-07:00Rosetta’s in Canton an Italian Restaurant Nonna Would be Proud of<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">“A bottle of red, a bottle of
white, it all depends on your appetite.” I couldn’t shake Billy Joel’s classic
ode to Italian cuisine in “Scenes from an Italian Restaurant” as I dined at
Rosetta’s Italian Restaurant in Canton, MA. The eatery is located in the town
center, in an unassuming white building it shares with other tenants and what
was once Rosario’s restaurant. Gone are the cramped quarters, rambunctiously
noisy atmosphere, and blue collar service, replaced with a front to back dining
room that lends to more intimate dining and conversations. The wait staff is
friendly and patient, if not a bit too slowly paced (a 2 plus hour sitting on a
not so busy Thursday evening). But that’s beside the point. If the rather
non-descript building in which Rosetta’s resides is considered unassuming, then
consider the food itself - much of it handmade and packed with bold flavors – a
declaration that this eatery is a noteworthy addition to Canton and the local
dining scene.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This is in large part to its staff,
helmed by an owner who served in the Armed Forces for twenty years and strives
for perfection, while a key member of his wait staff served as Food Manager for
Quincy Hospital for ten years prior to its recent closure. The menu also boasts
a very affordable price point (most appetizers are $6-$8, while large entrees
range from $12-$16 and desserts top out at $7). The kitchen is also very
flexible accommodating requests for substitutions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Appetizers are surprisingly not
Italian-inspired (perplexing sides of nachos, potato skins, and chicken wings
don’t necessarily pair well with a bottle of vino). With that said, the BBQ
crazy wings my son orders possess a wonderfully crispy exterior and a meaty,
tender interior. As for entrees, the veal marsala is the most satisfying
version I’ve consumed since Delfino’s memorable take in Roslindale. The veal
was extremely tender, while the sauce – one that so many restaurant’s claim can
produce but very few properly execute – is pure heaven: a thick, buttery,
topping laced with fresh mushrooms. The meat was paired with house-made
parpadelle, perhaps a tad undercooked (not quite al dente), but the noodles were
a delicious complimentary sauce-sopper, nonetheless. The veal parmigiana was no
slouch, either, a mammoth piece of perfectly breaded meat topped with a zesty,
hearty marinara sauce.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Desserts are decent, if not less
memorable. While the tiramisu’s cake was spongy and nicely soaked in rum, and a
spiced homemade carrot cake was warm and comforting, both suffered from
excess frosting. I’m afraid White’s Bakery (Brockton, Mansfield) and Montilio’s
(Braintree) would be the nearest locations, outside of the North End, to find
that perfect cannoli.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Rosetta’s also stocks a very
reasonably priced ($6-9 by the glass, $22-40 by the bottle), short selection of
wines. About a half dozen reds and whites primarily hail from Italy with a few
outliers from California and Washington. A fruity La Maialina “Gertrude” Tuscan
red blend and a complex, velvety J Lohr cabernet provided noteworthy sips.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">As our meal concludes, I find
myself gravitating back to the apt lyrics of that classic Billy Joel tune. “We’ll
get a table near the street, in our old familiar place.” That’s what Rosetta’s
is: nothing flashy on the outside, taking its place alongside busy Washington
Street, and yet, creating surprisingly well executed, flavorful Italian cuisine.
This eatery can most certainly become that old familiar place both couples and
families should seek out for a satisfying dining experience.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5310842797942814208.post-74246376294945532062016-04-01T12:41:00.001-07:002016-04-01T12:41:14.213-07:00Los Andes Faces a ‘Mountain’ of Scrutiny<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">If the Andes in South America represent the largest
continental mountain range in the world, then the Providence-based restaurant,
Los Andes, typifies a steep decline from the lofty expectations and reputation
that precedes it. Situated in a rather sketchy, dilapidated neighborhood on
Chalkstone Avenue (most definitely off the beaten path from the more polished
downtown area and the Italian-American charm of the Hill), the restaurant’s
exterior more closely resembles the now shuttered Whitey Bulger South Boston
bar Triple O’s (replete with brick exterior, blue awning and illuminated signs
from the windows harkening to the 1970s) than a modern, inviting setting. And
yet, inexplicably, Los Andes features free valet service and servers in suits
and ties that seem out of synch with its ultra-casual ambience and décor (including
a large fish tank separating an old-school bar from the main dining room). It’s
evident that the restaurant is trying too hard to overcompensate for these
shortcomings, and we haven’t even touched our food yet.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>That’s
not to say that some of the very affordable Peruvian and Bolivian inspired meat
and seafood dishes don’t reach the culinary heights that Los Andes’s name
implies. A ceviche martini ($9.95) is stuffed with fresh tilapia, squid,
shrimp, and mussels, a solid seafood cocktail. It’s relatively well seasoned
with fish sauce, lime juice (perhaps applied a tad too generously given a trace
of excess sourness) and cilantro. My dining companion and I - always the
adventurous, Anthony Bourdain-like eaters that we are - are fascinated by and
immediately gravitate towards a unique special of llama tacos ($11.99), which
are packed with surprisingly tender, un-gamey shredded meat. Empanadas de pollo
($2.95) are satisfying, two flakey pastries filled with nicely seasoned
shredded chicken (a cheese version, however, is quite bland).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>While
most entrees (majority of which range from $11.95-$19.95) show promise, they
often fail to live up to the hype. The menu is laced with exciting options at
first glance, but upon closer review, is extremely redundant and protein/carb
heavy, as most dishes are accompanied by fried eggs, rice, and yucca. The Jalea
(Peruvian fisherman medley, $16.95) is packed with a generous portion of seafood
that was nicely battered with kiko soy and garlic, but the chalaca salsa it was
topped with was far too mild, while some of the fish itself – seemingly
undercooked - left my stomach in knots after two unsuccessful attempts to
consume it. Paella ($16.95) was a satisfactory, traditional version that could
have benefitted from additional heat, smokiness, and a bit more grittiness on
the rice.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Fortunately,
I have a sweet tooth, and it was satisfied with a delightful house special of passion
fruit coconut cheesecake (all of the desserts were shown off a la carte by our
server), the cheesecake airy and light, while the coconut flakers were
discernably scrumptious.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Service
was adequate, our waitress knowledgeable and competent enough with the
exception of an extremely odd, uncomfortable exchange I shared with her over an
incorrectly made cocktail. When I noticed that my drink was mixed with neither
fresh pineapple slices or jalapeno liquor, the waitress never apologized,
neither offering me a new drink nor comping it altogether from our bill.
Instead, she replied that “… the bartender must have been out of pineapple, so
that’s why you got what you got.” Neat.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>But
given all of the surrounding hype that Los Andes has achieved on reviewer sites
like Yelp, the restaurant evokes the same sort of response from me – merely a
shrug. What’s the big deal about this place, after all? I suppose if the food
is slightly above average quality and reasonably priced, the masses will
approve. Me? I’d rather take my culinary expedition elsewhere prior to scaling
the culinary heights of Los Andes. Its peaks simply aren’t high enough to
warrant enough excitement for a return trip.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08698672219130616844noreply@blogger.com0