For a town steeped in Israeli heritage, it’s downright
shocking that Sharon has for so long failed to land a restaurant that pays
proper homage to the exotic Middle Eastern/North African cuisine of its
ancestors. That is, until now. Simcha, lovingly named after chef/owner Avi
Shemtov’s (a Sharon native himself), and in Hebrew translates to ‘joy,’
recently opened its doors in Sharon Heights (historically, a revolving door of
fledgling shops and countless Asian restaurants; hopefully, the eatery will
reverse this trend) following its initial manifestation as a Roslindale pop-up.
Prior to that, Shemtov – whose father, Yona emigrated from Israel to the States
to fulfill his dream of becoming a chef – served more traditional Israeli
cuisine (think falafel and shawarma) out of his highly successful Chubby
Chickpea foodtruck for nine years. Simcha’s menu, however, veers more towards
what is best described as modern Israeli cuisine (i.e.: not your average
bubbe’s receipes from the Old World). Think sharable, Middle Eastern-inspired
tapas and you’re on the right path.
Step
inside, and the restaurant’s cozy, swanky interior will surprise you. Behind a
frosted glass window (in which the skyline of the city of Jerusalem is deftly
painted) and a black curtain, you may initially think you’re walking into a
secret speakeasy establishment. To the right, there’s a mid-sized bar dimly
illuminated by funky lamps that playfully and proudly display Jewish star
insignias. The main dining room is tiny, yet intimate, seating roughly two
dozen patrons. The restaurant’s name is boldly painted along the left wall,
along with the mysterious punim of a
woman (my guess is it’s Shemtov’s grandmother). The restaurant’s inviting color
schemes are beige and brown (including the brown formal table cloths),
replicating the color of plump, airy, warm, and incredibly delicious
complimentary pitas that are served piping hot out of the massive giant oven
from which smoky aromas permeate the air.
Shemtov’s
creative menu is broken out into three sections: Salatim (small bites), Mezze
(larger, sharable tapas), and Something Larger (entrée-size). Starting with the
Salatim, while the hummus ($13) is light and creamy, consisting of Maine
soldier beans tinged with tahini, garlic and evoo, it’s disappointingly bland
and could benefit from additional seasoning. Also, there could simply be much
more of it rendered on the plate to support the three aforementioned pitas
(it’s barely enough for two). I’m always of fan of establishments that utilize
locally sourced products, and Shemtov makes fine use of nearby Ward Farm’s
carrot sticks ($13). Perhaps, though, the menu item should be labeled carrot
stick (singular). While I admired the char on the vegetable and the unique
flavors stemming from orange blossom syrup and Moroccan spices, it appeared
that one carrot was sliced into several scrawny sticks. Carrots are a
relatively cheap vegetable to purchase, so why is Simcha skimping on portion
size here? I experienced this very problem with the seared eggplant ($12), pan
seared and whose flavors generally popped with roasted red peppers and smoked
onion puree with balsamic. But if you asked me if I could delineate between a
trio of Indian, Thai and Chinese varieties that the menu insists are there,
then you’re a more astute diner than I (one version was decent while another
was excessively bitter to the degree of burnt).
Mezze
fare better, including a generous portion of calamari ($16), whose fresh
tentacles and rings have a nicely balanced texture between the crunchy crackle
of a lightly breaded exterior and the squishy tenderness of the fish’s
interior. The dish is further enhanced by a welcomed, heated spike of zhoug, a
chili-pepper and garlic infused hot sauce originating in Yemenite cuisine. My
personal favorite menu item is Shemtov’s innovative Middle Eastern riff on
traditional French fries, this time served up as fried rutabaga ($9), doused
with a delectable pomegranate molasses sauce that I was reluctant to share.
Short rib poutine ($13), however, was another downer given its (sense a theme
here?) inadequate portion of chickpea polenta fries topped with meat that (you
guessed it) lacked seasoning that would have invigorated the otherwise creamy
potato slivers that were nicely plated tic-tac-toe style.
Having
sampled the Yemenite fried chicken ($24) entrée, it’s easy to understand why
it’s Simcha’s staple dish (although it doesn’t quite reach the flavor profile
pinnacle that those wonderful rutabaga fries had achieved). The bird is brined
and battered in chickpea flour, unapologetically cooked in gluttonous schmaltz
(chicken fat) to moisten and enhance the white and dark meat’s flavor, and
dipped in a vibrant, zesty pool of red zhoug.
Desserts
were a mixed bag. A semi-dry chocolate lava cake was much too hastily brought
tableside (our generally knowledgeable and affable server, during his lone
misstep of the evening, stated that it was a leftover slice from an anniversary
cake baked moments before), whereas a giant, marshmallow-infused whoopie pie
drew praise across our table. Regardless, it was a bit baffling that none of
these selections drew from Middle Eastern influences.
A small,
select list of cocktails were well executed (including a spicy jalapeno infused
margarita and a refreshing bourbon blended with brown sugar lemonade with
candied lemon peel), but at $13 a pop, I would expect a far more generous pour
of alcohol in my concoction in lieu of over half of my glass packed with ice. An
interesting offering of craft beers – both canned and on tap – span across the
New England region, including a double IPA from Fall River.
I am
rooting for Simcha to succeed. The town of Sharon has been clamoring for an
upscale eatery for years and it appears to have finally arrived. Shemtov and
his energetic team are undoubtedly giving Simcha along with the local dining
community their best shot. With some minor tweaks in the kitchen and a slight
reduction in price points to more accurately reflect their portion sizes, this
eatery will then become a simcha to
behold.
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