Sunday, October 14, 2012

Posto a Fine Addition to Somerville Dining Scene

Posto, which opened to wide acclaim in 2009 in Somerville’s Davis Square neighborhood (and was named one of Boston Magazine’s Top 50 restaurants in 2011), is an upscale wood fired Italian restaurant and pizza parlor that, for the most part, manages to achieve decent marks.


Three years after its opening, the lengthy lines forming outside at 9:30 in the evening are indicative of this bustling bistro’s ever-growing popularity. Posto’s floor plan works marvelously, including a sleek bar to the back left of the room with black wine racks adorning the walls, which give way to a most impressive site: a giant open kitchen where diners can view their meals being prepared by a team of chefs. The kitchen’s piece de resistance is an Italian wood burning oven in which neopolitan pizzas are cooked in excess of 850 degrees (Posto’s pies are the only ones locally with the distinction of being certified by the Verace Pizza Napoletana or VPN). There’s also a more private backroom area adjacent to the kitchen. Posto’s cathedral ceilings and acoustics however, make for a rather loud setting and challenging conversation (although our friends insist that Posto’s owners’ newer establishment, Painted Burro, is far worse in terms of noise level).

Appetizers open strong. While the Crisp Calamari ($7) are more soggy than crispy in texture and come with a disappointingly bland pine nut romesco sauce, the rosemary sea salt bread ($2.5), baked to order, is divine, salty-doughy goodness. My favorite dish of the evening consisted of a quartet of tender lamb meatballs ($6), the meat swimming in a unique goat cheese crema, sweetened by apricot mostarda and mint gremolata, and which packed a surprising, yet welcomed touch of heat which, our server responded when questioned, originated from a dash of chili flakes.

Entrees were also noteworthy, particularly Posto’s pasta dishes. I could easily have devoured the ultra-tender beef short rib with potato gnocchi, soaked in port wine and parmesan crema ($23), for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It came highly recommended by our server, and it was superb. Also impressive was the crab toretellini ($22) with squash puree. Like the aforementioned short rib dish, Posto does not skimp on meat or seafood when incorporating them into their pasta dishes. The Posto Steak Burger ($15) has been recognized on many critics’ lists as one of Boston’s best burgers, and the sandwich deserves such merit. The uber-tender meat, which has a nice char and is a juicy served medium rear, consists of a unique blend of quality meat - archer form short rib and sirloin. Plopped on a warm, buttery brioche bun and served with crispy sea salt fries, it’s upscale comfort food at its finest. Most disappointing, however, was Posto’s much hyped pizza. The porchetta ($18) pie consisted of San Marzano, fior di latte, Swiss chard, slow roasted pork, roasted garlic, and red onion. What sounded like a meat-lover’s paradise fell far short of expectations as a result of an overly doughy, chewy pizza with a limp base that made lifting/eating slices virtually impossible. The pork was also excessively dry. The pizza might be VPN certified, but perhaps Posto needs a Neopolitan chef to properly cook Neopolitan-quality pies in its oven?

Inventive cocktails were exceptionally prepared, particularly pumpkin spiced sangria ($8), which was light, refreshing, and just potent enough. Our server, upon ordering it, beamed, “It’s terrific. The owner actually ferments the pumpkin right here in our basement.” Other seasonal concoctions included a spiced apple martini with local apple cider ($9). Posto’s beer selection is narrow, yet interesting, ranging from a Peroni Nastro Azzuro from Milan, Italy ($5.50) to more local brews such as Somerville’s Happy Sol ($5.95). Posto’s wine selection is far more extensive, and it is refreshing to see an eatery offer these not only by the glass or bottle, but also by carafe (Posto also offers up entrees in half-portions as well).

While desserts were not as complex as the beverages, they did deliver intense flavor. An enormous slice of tiramisu blended with Taza chocolate is every bit as richly indulgent as it sounds, while a chocolate cherry torta (think of a really dense, slightly fudgy brownie) topped with Vin Santo soaked cherries is akin to eating a giant chocolate covered cherry cordial. It’s fantastic.

Service was excellent. Our waitress was extremely friendly (she instantly recognized the couple we dined with as regulars), polished (nary a wine or water glass was left unfilled), and knowledgeable of the menu (oh, how I wished I had taken her recommendation of the short rib dish over the pizza!).

Posto doesn’t knock all of its dishes out of the park, but for its reasonably priced cuisine, its hip, relaxed ambience, and great service, it’s definitely worth recommending.

Friday, September 21, 2012

Trattoria Della Nonna is a Restaurant any Grandmother Would Love

Mansfield, home of the Comast Center, has always been a frequent destination for concertgoers, but the town has seldom been associated with fine dining. Trattoria La Cucina Della Nonna (Kitchen from my Grandmother) should put Mansfield back on the culinary map with its rustic, well executed Calabrian-inspired (Southern Italian) cuisine. Chef Kenny DeFazio opened his well-regarded eatery in 2000, with his wife, Yvonne, and locals have flocked there ever since.


Walking into the DeFazios’ establishment, the room certainly resembles Grandma’s kitchen in a comforting, traditional sense. The small dining room is intimate, with dimmed lighting and even lighter music playing overhead. Exposed brick walls surround the room, and the kitchen staff can be seen meticulously preparing meals towards the front. Towards the rear of the restaurant, a recently added, sleek martini bar/lounge area appears lively, demonstrating that even Nonna has a contemporary side to her.

For starters, Calamari-Sicilian ($9) are prepared in an innovative way, slow cooked and grilled (not fried), served with pine nuts and sweet currants in a slightly spicy tomato sauce over bruschetta. From the contrast in texture (rubbery calamari against the crunchiness of the bread, which sopped up the insanely good tomato sauce) to the balance of flavors (the heat of the sauce with the sweetness of the sweet currants), the dish was a hit with everyone at our table.

Entrees also impressed. Clams and linguine ($18) was served in either a traditional (tomato sauce) or spicy version. We select the latter option. I find the amount of chili flakes and accompanying heat a tad high to my liking, but others at the table disagree. Paired with a perfect amount of garlic, and with a generous serving of well-cooked clams, however, we all agree that overall, the dish is solid. Grilled rosemary lamb chops ($32) are beautifully cooked medium rare, whose flavor is enhanced by a sweet, yet surprisingly light fresh garden tomato sauce. I wonder if Nonna would be willing to share her recipe for that wonderful sauce? Tuna ($25) was yet another winning, unique Italian re-invention of a traditionally Asian dish, served sushi grade (interestingly enough, our waitress served this entrée last, stating that the chef was sensitive to the amount of time he let rare tuna sit on a plate), yet served over creamed Genoa tuna, peas and potato, and drizzled with pesto. The lone misfire of the evening was the Green pasta and eggplant ($18), consisting of taglierini, garlic, basil leaves, baby arugula, and a shade too much salt.

Desserts were also superb. Sicilian almond cake, plated with fresh berries and powdered sugar, was simple in stature, yet simply delicious in terms of its light texture and subtle sweetness. A concoction resembling a blueberry tiramisu was also pleasantly light and a creative take on the more traditional, coffee-tinged version. Most memorable, however, evoking several oohs and ahhs across the table, was the decadent English toffee cake pudding, baked in brown sugar, toffee sauce, and served with a small dollop of vanilla gelato. What’s most startling, however, was the dish’s pasta-like presentation of the cake, which was broken out into what appeared to be three pieces of toffee covered ravioli. It was a stunning dish to behold.

Service, with the exception of what felt like a slightly extended break between our appetizer and entrée, was well-paced and superb throughout the evening. Our server was genial, patient, extremely knowledgeable of the menu, and made us feel at home, as if we were in fact sitting tableside along with Nonna herself.

With reasonable price points, commendable service, and noteworthy cuisine, this is a Trattoria any Nonna would be proud of.

Monday, September 10, 2012

Oro Goes for Culinary ‘Gold’

Oro is the Spanish word for gold, and if it’s a treasure trove of culinary goodness you seek, head down to Scituate harbor, where Chef/Owner Robin King creates some of the most innovative, delectable dishes south of Boston. Robin and his wife/co-owner, Jill have taken their extensive experience in the restaurant business (Robin, having worked under Chef Kevin Long at nearby Tosca in Hingham, revered Chef Jamie Mammano at Mistral, and later with Chef Evan Deluty at Stella; Jill, at Top of the Hub and Aquitaine; both of whom ran Kevin Costner’s Epiphany restaurant in Santa Barbara, CA) and translated it closer to home (King hails from Marshfield) into their very own establishment. The restaurant prides itself on sourcing produce from small farms and fresh seafood from local fishing boats that are docked directly behind Oro in Scituate Harbor (the Kings’ boat resides there as well).


Appetizers, entrees, and desserts are playfully labeled on the menu as Beginnings, Focus and Sweet Tooth. For starters, the Misto del Mar ($15) consists of a massive tartare of tuna, salmon, avocado, and ginger vinaigrette. One of our dining companions shares with me that one of his friends once ordered it as an appetizer, entrée, and dessert. While I certainly wouldn’t go to such extremes, I agree that the dish is quite delicious, especially when the tartare can be scooped onto house-made potato chips. The saltiness and crispiness of the chips, beautifully stacked atop the tartare, are a wonderful contrast against the smooth, subtle fish, although I would have preferred a hint more of the ginger vinaigrette for additional spiciness and sweetness. Other enticing appetizers included a heaping bowl of rich, smoky, creamy sweet corn chowder with littleneck clams and Berkshire bacon ($10) and another dish I’m looking forward to trying at a later date, spiced lamb carpaccio with crispy fennel and pomegranate syrup ($11).

Entrees were equally impressive, particularly the crispy Scituate lobster cake (market price), garnished with spinach and grilled onion and topped with lobster crema. Like most of King’s creations, it’s lovely to look at and even lovelier to eat. It’s rich, but not extensively so, and the perfectly fried cake balls are generous stuffed with juicy lobster, a testament to the chef’s flair for experimentation, intricate cooking technique and execution. Also quite tasty is a dish that utilizes what is typically considered one of the least impressive parts of the pig, porky belly ($24). Here, the pork belly, in all its fatty goodness, has a crispy glazed exterior, and a succulent interior, cooked perfectly, and it’s lip-smackingly delicious. It is accompanied by unique accoutrements such as chive dumplings, spring onion, and shitake broth which only enhance the meat’s moist flavor. Other dishes, while good, do not resonate as strongly. My wife’s spicy cioppino ($24) is unapologetically non-traditional, served over a saffron risotto in lieu of broth, and contains shellfish and calamari. The fish and risotto are cooked nicely enough, but the dish possesses little of the spiciness it promises to deliver. The grass fed Bavette steak, served with confit potato, creamed spinach, and sauce au poivre, is also flavored well but is served lukewarm. The truffle fries ($6) are also flavorful but aren’t crispy enough for my liking. Chef King has always showcased his talent for pasta, particularly at Stella (his seemingly simple, yet deceptively complex spaghetti with toasted garlic, olive oil, and parmesan still resonates with me years later). His linguine aglio ($18) with wild mushroom, black truffle butter and farm egg sounded highly appealing, particularly when viewing a customer devouring it at a nearby table. This carbonara-inspired dish, however, will just have to wait until my next visit.

Desserts (all a steal at only $6) were a fine conclusion to a wonderful meal. A nicely plated caramelized pineapple right-side up cake was moist and decadent, served with mini fresh pineapple chunks, vanilla ice cream, and vivid paint strokes of pineapple sauce adorning the plate. Also delightful was the warm chocolate pudding cake with salted caramel sauce and coffee ice cream. Chef King also sent us a complimentary concoction, four Cookie Sandwiches (house-made chocolate chip), filled with vanilla ice cream and accompanied by whopper heath bar crumble.

Service was good, but not bend-over-backwards great. Our server knew every minute detail of the menu, but strangely, offered no recommendations when asked.

An extensive, well thought-out wine selection includes several bottles of reds and whites, of which a half dozen options are by the glass ($11-12). Oro’s creative libations include a unique take on the Whiskey Sour called the Scituate Sour ($10), which incorporates Malbec red wine and port-soaked cherries. It’s subtly sweet, light, and a perfect late summer drink.

Overall, Oro would earn a gold medal, had it not been for the god-awful acoustics in the restaurant. Conversation was virtually impossible. There are a limited amount of tables to the left of the entrance, but the hustle and bustle emanating from the busy bar area overwhelms all sound. It’s a shame that this detracts from an otherwise memorable fine dining experience. Otherwise, with its reasonable prices, innovative fare, seaside location, contemporary ambience, and a chef/owner with an obvious passion for food, Oro earns a well-deserved silver medal.

Oro Goes for Culinary ‘Gold’

Oro is the Spanish word for gold, and if it’s a treasure trove of culinary goodness you seek, head down to Scituate harbor, where Chef/Owner Robin King creates some of the most innovative, delectable dishes south of Boston. Robin and his wife/co-owner, Jill have taken their extensive experience in the restaurant business (Robin, having worked under Chef Kevin Long at nearby Tosca in Hingham, revered Chef Jamie Mammano at Mistral, and later with Chef Evan Deluty at Stella; Jill, at Top of the Hub and Aquitaine; both of whom ran Kevin Costner’s Epiphany restaurant in Santa Barbara, CA) and translated it closer to home (King hails from Marshfield) into their very own establishment. The restaurant prides itself on sourcing produce from small farms and fresh seafood from local fishing boats that are docked directly behind Oro in Scituate Harbor (the Kings’ boat resides there as well).




Appetizers, entrees, and desserts are playfully labeled on the menu as Beginnings, Focus and Sweet Tooth. For starters, the Misto del Mar ($15) consists of a massive tartare of tuna, salmon, avocado, and ginger vinaigrette. One of our dining companions shares with me that one of his friends once ordered it as an appetizer, entrée, and dessert. While I certainly wouldn’t go to such extremes, I agree that the dish is quite delicious, especially when the tartare can be scooped onto house-made potato chips. The saltiness and crispiness of the chips, beautifully stacked atop the tartare, are a wonderful contrast against the smooth, subtle fish, although I would have preferred a hint more of the ginger vinaigrette for additional spiciness and sweetness. Other enticing appetizers included a heaping bowl of rich, smoky, creamy sweet corn chowder with littleneck clams and Berkshire bacon ($10) and another dish I’m looking forward to trying at a later date, spiced lamb carpaccio with crispy fennel and pomegranate syrup ($11).



Entrees were equally impressive, particularly the crispy Scituate lobster cake (market price), garnished with spinach and grilled onion and topped with lobster crema. Like most of King’s creations, it’s lovely to look at and even lovelier to eat. It’s rich, but not extensively so, and the perfectly fried cake balls are generous stuffed with juicy lobster, a testament to the chef’s flair for experimentation, intricate cooking technique and execution. Also quite tasty is a dish that utilizes what is typically considered one of the least impressive parts of the pig, porky belly ($24). Here, the pork belly, in all its fatty goodness, has a crispy glazed exterior, and a succulent interior, cooked perfectly, and it’s lip-smackingly delicious. It is accompanied by unique accoutrements such as chive dumplings, spring onion, and shitake broth which only enhance the meat’s moist flavor. Other dishes, while good, do not resonate as strongly. My wife’s spicy cioppino ($24) is unapologetically non-traditional, served over a saffron risotto in lieu of broth, and contains shellfish and calamari. The fish and risotto are cooked nicely enough, but the dish possesses little of the spiciness it promises to deliver. The grass fed Bavette steak, served with confit potato, creamed spinach, and sauce au poivre, is also flavored well but is served lukewarm. The truffle fries ($6) are also flavorful but aren’t crispy enough for my liking. Chef King has always showcased his talent for pasta, particularly at Stella (his seemingly simple, yet deceptively complex spaghetti with toasted garlic, olive oil, and parmesan still resonates with me years later). His linguine aglio ($18) with wild mushroom, black truffle butter and farm egg sounded highly appealing, particularly when viewing a customer devouring it at a nearby table. This carbonara-inspired dish, however, will just have to wait until my next visit.



Desserts (all a steal at only $6) were a fine conclusion to a wonderful meal. A nicely plated caramelized pineapple right-side up cake was moist and decadent, served with mini fresh pineapple chunks, vanilla ice cream, and vivid paint strokes of pineapple sauce adorning the plate. Also delightful was the warm chocolate pudding cake with salted caramel sauce and coffee ice cream. Chef King also sent us a complimentary concoction, four Cookie Sandwiches (house-made chocolate chip), filled with vanilla ice cream and accompanied by whopper heath bar crumble.



Service was good, but not bend-over-backwards great. Our server knew every minute detail of the menu, but strangely, offered no recommendations when asked.



An extensive, well thought-out wine selection includes several bottles of reds and whites, of which a half dozen options are by the glass ($11-12). Oro’s creative libations include a unique take on the Whiskey Sour called the Scituate Sour ($10), which incorporates Malbec red wine and port-soaked cherries. It’s subtly sweet, light, and a perfect late summer drink.



Overall, Oro would earn a gold medal, had it not been for the god-awful acoustics in the restaurant. Conversation was virtually impossible. There are a limited amount of tables to the left of the entrance, but the hustle and bustle emanating from the busy bar area overwhelms all sound. It’s a shame that this detracts from an otherwise memorable fine dining experience. Otherwise, with its reasonable prices, innovative fare, seaside location, contemporary ambience, and a chef/owner with an obvious passion for food, Oro earns a well-deserved silver medal.

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Ocean House is a Swimming Success

There’s prime real estate, and then there’s Ocean House. Located in scenic Dennisport, MA, this restaurant not only provides panoramic, stunning ocean views but serves up some of the most inventive, tasty cuisine in all of Cape Cod. Chef Anthony Silvestri’s New American menu features fusion fare with subtle touches of Pan Asian influence along with a heavy focus on local, seasonal ingredients.
There’s nary an unattractive seat in the house given the enormous glass window that dominates the main dining room and seemingly opens right into the Atlantic Ocean like an infinity pool. It’s a breathtaking sight to behold, particularly at sunset. It’s easy to mistake a Wednesday evening for the weekend, as evidenced by the two hour wait and throngs of people awaiting their tables. Boisterous locals shout (yes, acoustics are loud) over to friends at nearby tables, happily exchanging summertime stories. Hints of Cape Cod and aromas of seafood permeate through the air.

Undoubtedly, diners are enjoying the bartender’s creative, stiff cocktails, which feature a luminous red concoction called Cactus Flower ($12), an upscale margarita infused with elderflower and lavender liquor, including said flower atop the glass’s rim. A watermelon mojito is also light, refreshing, subtly sweet and well executed. Twenty wine selections are also available by the glass, most notably a phenomenally good Pinot Noir, Neiome by Caymus (California, 2011, $10) that would pair nicely with either fish or filet (mignon).

The lone disappointment of the evening are the fried Point Judith calamari ($14), a simple, classic seafood staple that one would think an acclaimed restaurant such as Ocean House would nail. Sadly, while the octopi are adequately cooked, what they lack is distinct flavor. The dish promises smokiness by way of chorizo and spiciness by way of cherry peppers, but barely any are detected on the plate. Fortunately, this misfire is instantly offset by yellow fin tuna tartar, which is a revelatory dish, not merely due to the freshness of the fish and intense flavoring (sesame and ginger vinaigrette), but because of its wildly unique and fun spinoff on the ice cream cone. A quartet of miniature ice cream cones contain the tartar, and are layered with a dollop of incredibly light, airy, whipped wasabi foam. Chef Silvestri’s creation possesses a wow factor usually reserved for more experimental chefs such as Ken Oringer at Clio.

Entrees are equally strong. This is not-your-average tasting halibut, whose flavor is enhanced here by encrusting it with ginger and pairing with braised Napa cabbage, red curry oil, and black rice ($28). Thai cioppino also offers a unique twist on the Italian-American seafood favorite, infused with kaffir lime broth and packed with an abundance of fresh seafood. A special of wild striped bass (in season for one month only) – whose thicker texture closely resembles a more tender cut of swordfish – is also divine, cooked in a zesty tomato broth and creatively paired with potato hash.

Service, for the most part, is respectable. However, with an 8 o’clock dinner reservation and neither water nor bread placed on our table until forty-five minutes have elapsed, our waiter apologizes for being called to other tables. Lesson #1 in Service 101: never blame delays on how busy the rest of the restaurant is. Fortunately for him, his bubbly personality and intricate knowledge of the men (along with a wonderfully crispy, triangular piece of sesame bread served vertically) made us quickly forget the early foible.

Overall, Ocean House, with its waterfront setting and inventive menu, is a solid Cape Cod fine dining option that manages to do most things well. It’s the little things, however, that make Paul's Palate not want to jump overboard for a return visit any time soon.

Monday, July 16, 2012

Persimmon is a Pleasant, Pricey Treat

Persimmon, located in the quaint seaside town of Bristol, Rhode Island, is an unabashedly upscale, nationally renowned bistro that you may never have actually heard about. I certainly hadn’t, until a recent conversation during a home-cooked dinner with another couple, who raved about this intimate (thirty-eight seats), modern establishment. Chef/owner (and James Beard nominee) Champe Speidel, alongside his wife, Lisa, opened Persimmon (named after the yellow/red-orange colored fruit originating in Japan but now grown across Italy, the Mediterranean, the Middle East, and even in parts of the US) in 2005, and it has gained a loyal following.


Persimmon’s ambience oozes romance. The sleek room is dimly lit (miniature rotund candlelit glasses rest atop each table) and includes portraits of fruit adorning the walls and cozy banquettes across the walls. When the bistro fills up (and indeed it does, as co-owner Lisa Speidel warmly shakes hands with regular customers), you may have to shout to be heard given the relatively small space and low ceilings leading to poor acoustics. And you’d never guess there’s a state financial crisis here, as Persimmon attracts a plethora of wealthy clientele. Listen closely to nearby conversations and you’ll overhear stories about customers arriving from the Newport tennis festival, the golf course, or even their boats. One downside during the evening: an out-of-order restroom forcing customers to use a neighboring restaurant’s facilities.

Speidel’s use of seasonal ingredients, technique, and creativity are readily apparent in his food. We opt for the 5-course chef’s tasting ($65, $100 with wine pairing; a 7-course tasting is also available for $80, $130 with wine pairing). A couple of amuse- bouche (complimentary bite-size hors d’oeuvres) are a welcomed pleasure, including a red pepper sorbet with spicy oregano, although the sorbet theme becomes a bit tiresome throughout the meal (for instance, a peach sorbet followed by an apricot soup adds little flavor contrast-wise). Most impressive is a beautifully seared sea scallop whose succulent fish is accentuated by a rich pork jus and accompanied by celery, radish, avocado, basil, and cilantro flowers. Like most menu items, it’s edible art on a plate and is the quintessential summer dish – light and refreshing. Also memorable is a non-traditional, non-pureed, fully constructed gazpacho in which fresh tomatoes and arugula surround a small dollop of basil sorbet placed in the bowl’s epicenter. An oyster swimming in vibrant green cucumber broth also demonstrates Speidel’s dedication to sourcing local products.

The middle of the meal falters a bit. While the 21-day aged skirt steak with sauce Bordelaise, king trumpet mushrooms, scallions, glazed cippolini onions, and fingerling potatoes packed complexity in terms of flavor, the portion itself bordered on pretentiousness. Three small strips of beef plus two small potatoes equates to one hungry stomach. This problem was further compounded by the fourth course that followed. While I received a perfectly fine duo of artisan cheeses with fresh berries, my wife’s meal was substituted with a thin slice of apple given her dairy allergy. We expected something much more substantive and imaginative from a restaurant of this pedigree.

Desserts, however, almost make up for this dining hiccup. My wife’s fresh fruit tart with a slightly buttery crust is delicious, while my chocolate ganache tart – with a chocolate halo playfully placed on top – albeit a tad dry/overpowdered in a couple of small spots, is a decadent treat, filled with caramel, a crunchy contrast of hazelnut praline, and smooth coffee-hazelnut ice cream. It’s divine.

So is Persimmon’s extensive, moderately-priced wine selection, which Speidel’s staff thoughtfully pairs with his food. Most selections, which are heavily weighted towards Italian, French, and Napa varieties, are available only by the bottle, with about a dozen by the glass (at about $10-11). You’ll even discover a local wine or two, such as Gewurztraminer, a white wine produced out of Little Compton, RI ($40 per bottle). A unique glass of Pinotage resembles a light, yet full-bodied, smoky version of Pinot Noir.

Service for this price-point should be nothing short of flawless, and I swear that our server could have recited each and every ingredient from each menu item down to the herb. His knowledge of the menu and his recommendations for wine pairings were breathtaking, and his calm, patient, oh-so polite demeanor made for a service experience on par with the most respected restaurants I’ve frequented, such as Boston’s Mistral. Our waiter’s timing between courses was impeccable. Take, for instance, his ability to ask if I’d like another beverage just as I was about to flag him down for one right between our second and third courses. Even more impressively, I glimpsed Ms. Speidel casually ironing a white tablecloth in between customers. Now that’s service.

Overall, Persimmon’s culinary reputation is well deserved. Value-wise, there are certainly better fine dining options across both Rhode Island and southeastern Massachusetts, and it’s certainly no cakewalk driving to Bristol. Given the restaurant’s innovative approach to food and exceptional service, however, there’s plenty of appeal and charm to be had. Will I be returning to Persimmon anytime soon? Most likely, no. But like most things in life, the restaurant provides a unique dining experience that is worth trying once.

Monday, June 11, 2012

Steak and Sushi Lovers Will Find Prime Dining at Ten

No pun intended, but it’s rare nowadays to find a steakhouse that lives up to its lofty prices and expectations. Ten Prime Steak and Sushi has long been considered one of Providence’s premier steakhouses. Conveniently located directly off of I-95 (and with equally convenient complimentary valet parking), Ten is a refreshing alternative for carnivores seeking something different from what has become an undistinguishable list of upscale chain steakhouses such as Ruth Chris, Smith & Wollensky, Capital Grille, and Morton’s. Was Ten’s food as prime as its location and hip setting?


Ten’s ambience is indeed trendy, yet completely unpretentious. A few tables towards the front of the restaurant reside next to a large open-glass window that enables customers to view Pine Street and McFadden’s pub across the way, all while dining under a funky chandelier. A long, stylish bar to the left is filled with young, stylish people. A sculpture of a male and female torso playfully adorns the wall, while a fish tank appears towards the back. As the evening wears on, club music blares loudly and makes for more difficult conversation. If you’re seeking a subdued atmosphere askin to Morton’s, look elsewhere. For an evening of upscale fun, however, Ten is the place to be.

Appetizers sounded highly promising, particularly an East Meets West 8-piece sushi special (a bargain at $14.99) that came highly recommended by our server and consisted of spicy tuna, salmon, filet mignon tartare, cucumber, spicy mayo and sriracha sauce. The sushi was mouthwateringly tender and packed a nice touch of heat, while the cucumber provided a cool, crunchy contrast. A heaping bowl of parmesan truffle frites ($5.99), however, were the evening’s glaring disappointment. The fries were limp, lacked crunch, and came out lukewarm. Sadly, not even a side of house-made spicy ketsup would be able to save the dish.

Entrees were relatively solid. My TEN filet ($41.99), a house specialty, was a tad overcooked for my liking (it was closer to medium well than medium rare) and the accompanying foie gras – whose buttery flavor was supposed to be the piece de resistance of the dish – was decent enough but did little to accentuate the meat’s flavor, while a handful of asparagus tips idly sat on the plate. A Wagyu Flat Iron steak ($41.99), however, is absolute heaven served on a plate. What this slightly fatty, more marbled cut of steak lacks in size, it more than accounts for in its rich, buttery flavor. Be prepared, however, to order a side dish with your steaks, which typically come without any accoutrements.

Desserts are pleasing, but not superb. A chocolate lava cake ($9.99) is decadent and rich, but lags behind the moist, magnificent version I’d recently sampled at Boston’s Grotto due to its drier texture. A bananas foster bread pudding (also $9.99) evoked raves across the table, but I found the flambed top layer more charred and hard than bruleed and slightly crisped, while the bread pudding itself was a touch drier than I would have preferred.

Service was commendable, but there were noticeable flaws. Our waiter was extremely knowledgeable of the menu and rather pleasant. While friends sitting across from us received their salads minutes before, however, we needed to remind our waiter about that terrific sushi plate that had yet to arrive. “Oh, I must have forgotten about that, with all of the other orders. Thanks very much for reminding me,” he apologized, flashing a genuine smile. Also, dipping sauces for the steaks arrive only after three-quarters of the meat is devoured.

Given Ten’s relatively pricey menu, particularly its steaks, cocktails are surprisingly well priced and expertly prepared. Each selection comes in a narrow, tall glass for show. Ten’s classic mojito has frequently been voted best in Rhode Island, and for good reason. It’s ultra-refreshing and dazzling. The drink is made with loads of crushed ice (mucho helado, as Ten advertises on its menu) that somehow manages to stay packed together for long periods of time, while there is a generous pouring of Bacardi Superior and loads of muddled mint and lime.

All cocktails are around $10, an uninspiring handful of draught and bottled beers come in around $5, a trio of sake selections between $5-10, along with various cognacs, grappa, bourbons, scotch, and tequila ($7-15). Ten’s wine list is extensive and its proprietary bottles can be extremely pricey, but a few moderately priced reds (such as the Putno Final Reserva Malbec, $40) and whites (Raymond Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, $41) can be had for under $50. My advice? Stick with those irresistibly addictive mojitos.

Ten has several positive attributes in its favor that impressed Paul’s Palate. With its at-times high prices for steaks (not much cheaper than any Boston steakhouses), along with enjoyable but not exceptional service and food, an eight out of ten rating feels like just the right flavor for Ten Prime Steak and Sushi.