Oro Goes for Culinary ‘Gold’

Oro is the Spanish word for gold, and if it’s a treasure trove of culinary goodness you seek, head down to Scituate harbor, where Chef/Owner Robin King creates some of the most innovative, delectable dishes south of Boston. Robin and his wife/co-owner, Jill have taken their extensive experience in the restaurant business (Robin, having worked under Chef Kevin Long at nearby Tosca in Hingham, revered Chef Jamie Mammano at Mistral, and later with Chef Evan Deluty at Stella; Jill, at Top of the Hub and Aquitaine; both of whom ran Kevin Costner’s Epiphany restaurant in Santa Barbara, CA) and translated it closer to home (King hails from Marshfield) into their very own establishment. The restaurant prides itself on sourcing produce from small farms and fresh seafood from local fishing boats that are docked directly behind Oro in Scituate Harbor (the Kings’ boat resides there as well).


Appetizers, entrees, and desserts are playfully labeled on the menu as Beginnings, Focus and Sweet Tooth. For starters, the Misto del Mar ($15) consists of a massive tartare of tuna, salmon, avocado, and ginger vinaigrette. One of our dining companions shares with me that one of his friends once ordered it as an appetizer, entrée, and dessert. While I certainly wouldn’t go to such extremes, I agree that the dish is quite delicious, especially when the tartare can be scooped onto house-made potato chips. The saltiness and crispiness of the chips, beautifully stacked atop the tartare, are a wonderful contrast against the smooth, subtle fish, although I would have preferred a hint more of the ginger vinaigrette for additional spiciness and sweetness. Other enticing appetizers included a heaping bowl of rich, smoky, creamy sweet corn chowder with littleneck clams and Berkshire bacon ($10) and another dish I’m looking forward to trying at a later date, spiced lamb carpaccio with crispy fennel and pomegranate syrup ($11).

Entrees were equally impressive, particularly the crispy Scituate lobster cake (market price), garnished with spinach and grilled onion and topped with lobster crema. Like most of King’s creations, it’s lovely to look at and even lovelier to eat. It’s rich, but not extensively so, and the perfectly fried cake balls are generous stuffed with juicy lobster, a testament to the chef’s flair for experimentation, intricate cooking technique and execution. Also quite tasty is a dish that utilizes what is typically considered one of the least impressive parts of the pig, porky belly ($24). Here, the pork belly, in all its fatty goodness, has a crispy glazed exterior, and a succulent interior, cooked perfectly, and it’s lip-smackingly delicious. It is accompanied by unique accoutrements such as chive dumplings, spring onion, and shitake broth which only enhance the meat’s moist flavor. Other dishes, while good, do not resonate as strongly. My wife’s spicy cioppino ($24) is unapologetically non-traditional, served over a saffron risotto in lieu of broth, and contains shellfish and calamari. The fish and risotto are cooked nicely enough, but the dish possesses little of the spiciness it promises to deliver. The grass fed Bavette steak, served with confit potato, creamed spinach, and sauce au poivre, is also flavored well but is served lukewarm. The truffle fries ($6) are also flavorful but aren’t crispy enough for my liking. Chef King has always showcased his talent for pasta, particularly at Stella (his seemingly simple, yet deceptively complex spaghetti with toasted garlic, olive oil, and parmesan still resonates with me years later). His linguine aglio ($18) with wild mushroom, black truffle butter and farm egg sounded highly appealing, particularly when viewing a customer devouring it at a nearby table. This carbonara-inspired dish, however, will just have to wait until my next visit.

Desserts (all a steal at only $6) were a fine conclusion to a wonderful meal. A nicely plated caramelized pineapple right-side up cake was moist and decadent, served with mini fresh pineapple chunks, vanilla ice cream, and vivid paint strokes of pineapple sauce adorning the plate. Also delightful was the warm chocolate pudding cake with salted caramel sauce and coffee ice cream. Chef King also sent us a complimentary concoction, four Cookie Sandwiches (house-made chocolate chip), filled with vanilla ice cream and accompanied by whopper heath bar crumble.

Service was good, but not bend-over-backwards great. Our server knew every minute detail of the menu, but strangely, offered no recommendations when asked.

An extensive, well thought-out wine selection includes several bottles of reds and whites, of which a half dozen options are by the glass ($11-12). Oro’s creative libations include a unique take on the Whiskey Sour called the Scituate Sour ($10), which incorporates Malbec red wine and port-soaked cherries. It’s subtly sweet, light, and a perfect late summer drink.

Overall, Oro would earn a gold medal, had it not been for the god-awful acoustics in the restaurant. Conversation was virtually impossible. There are a limited amount of tables to the left of the entrance, but the hustle and bustle emanating from the busy bar area overwhelms all sound. It’s a shame that this detracts from an otherwise memorable fine dining experience. Otherwise, with its reasonable prices, innovative fare, seaside location, contemporary ambience, and a chef/owner with an obvious passion for food, Oro earns a well-deserved silver medal.

Oro Goes for Culinary ‘Gold’

Oro is the Spanish word for gold, and if it’s a treasure trove of culinary goodness you seek, head down to Scituate harbor, where Chef/Owner Robin King creates some of the most innovative, delectable dishes south of Boston. Robin and his wife/co-owner, Jill have taken their extensive experience in the restaurant business (Robin, having worked under Chef Kevin Long at nearby Tosca in Hingham, revered Chef Jamie Mammano at Mistral, and later with Chef Evan Deluty at Stella; Jill, at Top of the Hub and Aquitaine; both of whom ran Kevin Costner’s Epiphany restaurant in Santa Barbara, CA) and translated it closer to home (King hails from Marshfield) into their very own establishment. The restaurant prides itself on sourcing produce from small farms and fresh seafood from local fishing boats that are docked directly behind Oro in Scituate Harbor (the Kings’ boat resides there as well).




Appetizers, entrees, and desserts are playfully labeled on the menu as Beginnings, Focus and Sweet Tooth. For starters, the Misto del Mar ($15) consists of a massive tartare of tuna, salmon, avocado, and ginger vinaigrette. One of our dining companions shares with me that one of his friends once ordered it as an appetizer, entrée, and dessert. While I certainly wouldn’t go to such extremes, I agree that the dish is quite delicious, especially when the tartare can be scooped onto house-made potato chips. The saltiness and crispiness of the chips, beautifully stacked atop the tartare, are a wonderful contrast against the smooth, subtle fish, although I would have preferred a hint more of the ginger vinaigrette for additional spiciness and sweetness. Other enticing appetizers included a heaping bowl of rich, smoky, creamy sweet corn chowder with littleneck clams and Berkshire bacon ($10) and another dish I’m looking forward to trying at a later date, spiced lamb carpaccio with crispy fennel and pomegranate syrup ($11).



Entrees were equally impressive, particularly the crispy Scituate lobster cake (market price), garnished with spinach and grilled onion and topped with lobster crema. Like most of King’s creations, it’s lovely to look at and even lovelier to eat. It’s rich, but not extensively so, and the perfectly fried cake balls are generous stuffed with juicy lobster, a testament to the chef’s flair for experimentation, intricate cooking technique and execution. Also quite tasty is a dish that utilizes what is typically considered one of the least impressive parts of the pig, porky belly ($24). Here, the pork belly, in all its fatty goodness, has a crispy glazed exterior, and a succulent interior, cooked perfectly, and it’s lip-smackingly delicious. It is accompanied by unique accoutrements such as chive dumplings, spring onion, and shitake broth which only enhance the meat’s moist flavor. Other dishes, while good, do not resonate as strongly. My wife’s spicy cioppino ($24) is unapologetically non-traditional, served over a saffron risotto in lieu of broth, and contains shellfish and calamari. The fish and risotto are cooked nicely enough, but the dish possesses little of the spiciness it promises to deliver. The grass fed Bavette steak, served with confit potato, creamed spinach, and sauce au poivre, is also flavored well but is served lukewarm. The truffle fries ($6) are also flavorful but aren’t crispy enough for my liking. Chef King has always showcased his talent for pasta, particularly at Stella (his seemingly simple, yet deceptively complex spaghetti with toasted garlic, olive oil, and parmesan still resonates with me years later). His linguine aglio ($18) with wild mushroom, black truffle butter and farm egg sounded highly appealing, particularly when viewing a customer devouring it at a nearby table. This carbonara-inspired dish, however, will just have to wait until my next visit.



Desserts (all a steal at only $6) were a fine conclusion to a wonderful meal. A nicely plated caramelized pineapple right-side up cake was moist and decadent, served with mini fresh pineapple chunks, vanilla ice cream, and vivid paint strokes of pineapple sauce adorning the plate. Also delightful was the warm chocolate pudding cake with salted caramel sauce and coffee ice cream. Chef King also sent us a complimentary concoction, four Cookie Sandwiches (house-made chocolate chip), filled with vanilla ice cream and accompanied by whopper heath bar crumble.



Service was good, but not bend-over-backwards great. Our server knew every minute detail of the menu, but strangely, offered no recommendations when asked.



An extensive, well thought-out wine selection includes several bottles of reds and whites, of which a half dozen options are by the glass ($11-12). Oro’s creative libations include a unique take on the Whiskey Sour called the Scituate Sour ($10), which incorporates Malbec red wine and port-soaked cherries. It’s subtly sweet, light, and a perfect late summer drink.



Overall, Oro would earn a gold medal, had it not been for the god-awful acoustics in the restaurant. Conversation was virtually impossible. There are a limited amount of tables to the left of the entrance, but the hustle and bustle emanating from the busy bar area overwhelms all sound. It’s a shame that this detracts from an otherwise memorable fine dining experience. Otherwise, with its reasonable prices, innovative fare, seaside location, contemporary ambience, and a chef/owner with an obvious passion for food, Oro earns a well-deserved silver medal.

Ocean House is a Swimming Success

There’s prime real estate, and then there’s Ocean House. Located in scenic Dennisport, MA, this restaurant not only provides panoramic, stunning ocean views but serves up some of the most inventive, tasty cuisine in all of Cape Cod. Chef Anthony Silvestri’s New American menu features fusion fare with subtle touches of Pan Asian influence along with a heavy focus on local, seasonal ingredients.
There’s nary an unattractive seat in the house given the enormous glass window that dominates the main dining room and seemingly opens right into the Atlantic Ocean like an infinity pool. It’s a breathtaking sight to behold, particularly at sunset. It’s easy to mistake a Wednesday evening for the weekend, as evidenced by the two hour wait and throngs of people awaiting their tables. Boisterous locals shout (yes, acoustics are loud) over to friends at nearby tables, happily exchanging summertime stories. Hints of Cape Cod and aromas of seafood permeate through the air.

Undoubtedly, diners are enjoying the bartender’s creative, stiff cocktails, which feature a luminous red concoction called Cactus Flower ($12), an upscale margarita infused with elderflower and lavender liquor, including said flower atop the glass’s rim. A watermelon mojito is also light, refreshing, subtly sweet and well executed. Twenty wine selections are also available by the glass, most notably a phenomenally good Pinot Noir, Neiome by Caymus (California, 2011, $10) that would pair nicely with either fish or filet (mignon).

The lone disappointment of the evening are the fried Point Judith calamari ($14), a simple, classic seafood staple that one would think an acclaimed restaurant such as Ocean House would nail. Sadly, while the octopi are adequately cooked, what they lack is distinct flavor. The dish promises smokiness by way of chorizo and spiciness by way of cherry peppers, but barely any are detected on the plate. Fortunately, this misfire is instantly offset by yellow fin tuna tartar, which is a revelatory dish, not merely due to the freshness of the fish and intense flavoring (sesame and ginger vinaigrette), but because of its wildly unique and fun spinoff on the ice cream cone. A quartet of miniature ice cream cones contain the tartar, and are layered with a dollop of incredibly light, airy, whipped wasabi foam. Chef Silvestri’s creation possesses a wow factor usually reserved for more experimental chefs such as Ken Oringer at Clio.

Entrees are equally strong. This is not-your-average tasting halibut, whose flavor is enhanced here by encrusting it with ginger and pairing with braised Napa cabbage, red curry oil, and black rice ($28). Thai cioppino also offers a unique twist on the Italian-American seafood favorite, infused with kaffir lime broth and packed with an abundance of fresh seafood. A special of wild striped bass (in season for one month only) – whose thicker texture closely resembles a more tender cut of swordfish – is also divine, cooked in a zesty tomato broth and creatively paired with potato hash.

Service, for the most part, is respectable. However, with an 8 o’clock dinner reservation and neither water nor bread placed on our table until forty-five minutes have elapsed, our waiter apologizes for being called to other tables. Lesson #1 in Service 101: never blame delays on how busy the rest of the restaurant is. Fortunately for him, his bubbly personality and intricate knowledge of the men (along with a wonderfully crispy, triangular piece of sesame bread served vertically) made us quickly forget the early foible.

Overall, Ocean House, with its waterfront setting and inventive menu, is a solid Cape Cod fine dining option that manages to do most things well. It’s the little things, however, that make Paul's Palate not want to jump overboard for a return visit any time soon.

Persimmon is a Pleasant, Pricey Treat

Persimmon, located in the quaint seaside town of Bristol, Rhode Island, is an unabashedly upscale, nationally renowned bistro that you may never have actually heard about. I certainly hadn’t, until a recent conversation during a home-cooked dinner with another couple, who raved about this intimate (thirty-eight seats), modern establishment. Chef/owner (and James Beard nominee) Champe Speidel, alongside his wife, Lisa, opened Persimmon (named after the yellow/red-orange colored fruit originating in Japan but now grown across Italy, the Mediterranean, the Middle East, and even in parts of the US) in 2005, and it has gained a loyal following.


Persimmon’s ambience oozes romance. The sleek room is dimly lit (miniature rotund candlelit glasses rest atop each table) and includes portraits of fruit adorning the walls and cozy banquettes across the walls. When the bistro fills up (and indeed it does, as co-owner Lisa Speidel warmly shakes hands with regular customers), you may have to shout to be heard given the relatively small space and low ceilings leading to poor acoustics. And you’d never guess there’s a state financial crisis here, as Persimmon attracts a plethora of wealthy clientele. Listen closely to nearby conversations and you’ll overhear stories about customers arriving from the Newport tennis festival, the golf course, or even their boats. One downside during the evening: an out-of-order restroom forcing customers to use a neighboring restaurant’s facilities.

Speidel’s use of seasonal ingredients, technique, and creativity are readily apparent in his food. We opt for the 5-course chef’s tasting ($65, $100 with wine pairing; a 7-course tasting is also available for $80, $130 with wine pairing). A couple of amuse- bouche (complimentary bite-size hors d’oeuvres) are a welcomed pleasure, including a red pepper sorbet with spicy oregano, although the sorbet theme becomes a bit tiresome throughout the meal (for instance, a peach sorbet followed by an apricot soup adds little flavor contrast-wise). Most impressive is a beautifully seared sea scallop whose succulent fish is accentuated by a rich pork jus and accompanied by celery, radish, avocado, basil, and cilantro flowers. Like most menu items, it’s edible art on a plate and is the quintessential summer dish – light and refreshing. Also memorable is a non-traditional, non-pureed, fully constructed gazpacho in which fresh tomatoes and arugula surround a small dollop of basil sorbet placed in the bowl’s epicenter. An oyster swimming in vibrant green cucumber broth also demonstrates Speidel’s dedication to sourcing local products.

The middle of the meal falters a bit. While the 21-day aged skirt steak with sauce Bordelaise, king trumpet mushrooms, scallions, glazed cippolini onions, and fingerling potatoes packed complexity in terms of flavor, the portion itself bordered on pretentiousness. Three small strips of beef plus two small potatoes equates to one hungry stomach. This problem was further compounded by the fourth course that followed. While I received a perfectly fine duo of artisan cheeses with fresh berries, my wife’s meal was substituted with a thin slice of apple given her dairy allergy. We expected something much more substantive and imaginative from a restaurant of this pedigree.

Desserts, however, almost make up for this dining hiccup. My wife’s fresh fruit tart with a slightly buttery crust is delicious, while my chocolate ganache tart – with a chocolate halo playfully placed on top – albeit a tad dry/overpowdered in a couple of small spots, is a decadent treat, filled with caramel, a crunchy contrast of hazelnut praline, and smooth coffee-hazelnut ice cream. It’s divine.

So is Persimmon’s extensive, moderately-priced wine selection, which Speidel’s staff thoughtfully pairs with his food. Most selections, which are heavily weighted towards Italian, French, and Napa varieties, are available only by the bottle, with about a dozen by the glass (at about $10-11). You’ll even discover a local wine or two, such as Gewurztraminer, a white wine produced out of Little Compton, RI ($40 per bottle). A unique glass of Pinotage resembles a light, yet full-bodied, smoky version of Pinot Noir.

Service for this price-point should be nothing short of flawless, and I swear that our server could have recited each and every ingredient from each menu item down to the herb. His knowledge of the menu and his recommendations for wine pairings were breathtaking, and his calm, patient, oh-so polite demeanor made for a service experience on par with the most respected restaurants I’ve frequented, such as Boston’s Mistral. Our waiter’s timing between courses was impeccable. Take, for instance, his ability to ask if I’d like another beverage just as I was about to flag him down for one right between our second and third courses. Even more impressively, I glimpsed Ms. Speidel casually ironing a white tablecloth in between customers. Now that’s service.

Overall, Persimmon’s culinary reputation is well deserved. Value-wise, there are certainly better fine dining options across both Rhode Island and southeastern Massachusetts, and it’s certainly no cakewalk driving to Bristol. Given the restaurant’s innovative approach to food and exceptional service, however, there’s plenty of appeal and charm to be had. Will I be returning to Persimmon anytime soon? Most likely, no. But like most things in life, the restaurant provides a unique dining experience that is worth trying once.

Steak and Sushi Lovers Will Find Prime Dining at Ten

No pun intended, but it’s rare nowadays to find a steakhouse that lives up to its lofty prices and expectations. Ten Prime Steak and Sushi has long been considered one of Providence’s premier steakhouses. Conveniently located directly off of I-95 (and with equally convenient complimentary valet parking), Ten is a refreshing alternative for carnivores seeking something different from what has become an undistinguishable list of upscale chain steakhouses such as Ruth Chris, Smith & Wollensky, Capital Grille, and Morton’s. Was Ten’s food as prime as its location and hip setting?


Ten’s ambience is indeed trendy, yet completely unpretentious. A few tables towards the front of the restaurant reside next to a large open-glass window that enables customers to view Pine Street and McFadden’s pub across the way, all while dining under a funky chandelier. A long, stylish bar to the left is filled with young, stylish people. A sculpture of a male and female torso playfully adorns the wall, while a fish tank appears towards the back. As the evening wears on, club music blares loudly and makes for more difficult conversation. If you’re seeking a subdued atmosphere askin to Morton’s, look elsewhere. For an evening of upscale fun, however, Ten is the place to be.

Appetizers sounded highly promising, particularly an East Meets West 8-piece sushi special (a bargain at $14.99) that came highly recommended by our server and consisted of spicy tuna, salmon, filet mignon tartare, cucumber, spicy mayo and sriracha sauce. The sushi was mouthwateringly tender and packed a nice touch of heat, while the cucumber provided a cool, crunchy contrast. A heaping bowl of parmesan truffle frites ($5.99), however, were the evening’s glaring disappointment. The fries were limp, lacked crunch, and came out lukewarm. Sadly, not even a side of house-made spicy ketsup would be able to save the dish.

Entrees were relatively solid. My TEN filet ($41.99), a house specialty, was a tad overcooked for my liking (it was closer to medium well than medium rare) and the accompanying foie gras – whose buttery flavor was supposed to be the piece de resistance of the dish – was decent enough but did little to accentuate the meat’s flavor, while a handful of asparagus tips idly sat on the plate. A Wagyu Flat Iron steak ($41.99), however, is absolute heaven served on a plate. What this slightly fatty, more marbled cut of steak lacks in size, it more than accounts for in its rich, buttery flavor. Be prepared, however, to order a side dish with your steaks, which typically come without any accoutrements.

Desserts are pleasing, but not superb. A chocolate lava cake ($9.99) is decadent and rich, but lags behind the moist, magnificent version I’d recently sampled at Boston’s Grotto due to its drier texture. A bananas foster bread pudding (also $9.99) evoked raves across the table, but I found the flambed top layer more charred and hard than bruleed and slightly crisped, while the bread pudding itself was a touch drier than I would have preferred.

Service was commendable, but there were noticeable flaws. Our waiter was extremely knowledgeable of the menu and rather pleasant. While friends sitting across from us received their salads minutes before, however, we needed to remind our waiter about that terrific sushi plate that had yet to arrive. “Oh, I must have forgotten about that, with all of the other orders. Thanks very much for reminding me,” he apologized, flashing a genuine smile. Also, dipping sauces for the steaks arrive only after three-quarters of the meat is devoured.

Given Ten’s relatively pricey menu, particularly its steaks, cocktails are surprisingly well priced and expertly prepared. Each selection comes in a narrow, tall glass for show. Ten’s classic mojito has frequently been voted best in Rhode Island, and for good reason. It’s ultra-refreshing and dazzling. The drink is made with loads of crushed ice (mucho helado, as Ten advertises on its menu) that somehow manages to stay packed together for long periods of time, while there is a generous pouring of Bacardi Superior and loads of muddled mint and lime.

All cocktails are around $10, an uninspiring handful of draught and bottled beers come in around $5, a trio of sake selections between $5-10, along with various cognacs, grappa, bourbons, scotch, and tequila ($7-15). Ten’s wine list is extensive and its proprietary bottles can be extremely pricey, but a few moderately priced reds (such as the Putno Final Reserva Malbec, $40) and whites (Raymond Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, $41) can be had for under $50. My advice? Stick with those irresistibly addictive mojitos.

Ten has several positive attributes in its favor that impressed Paul’s Palate. With its at-times high prices for steaks (not much cheaper than any Boston steakhouses), along with enjoyable but not exceptional service and food, an eight out of ten rating feels like just the right flavor for Ten Prime Steak and Sushi.

Grotto an Underground Treasure

Blink and you just might miss Grotto, a subterranean Italian dining hotspot located on the back side of Beacon Hill, just a stone’s throw away from the State House. And if you miss Grotto, you’ll be missing out on some of the finest, most authentic, and reasonably priced contemporary Italian cuisine in all of Boston. Every night, customers can discover perhaps the best prix fixe offerings in the city – three courses for only $36.


Walking down Grotto’s steps transports you to a little piece of Italy. Exposed brick walls, red ceilings, and artwork from local artists (they can’t be starving, though, right?) adorning the walls make this bistro-like establishment feel like a secret dining destination you want to keep all to yourself. But the restaurant’s secret has long been revealed, as evidenced by the full, bustling dining room from the moment we are seated just after 7 to the moment we depart around 9:30 (and yes, that length of time translates to a relaxed, well-paced meal). The ambience is intimate and conversation is easy enough (that is, if you don’t mind speaking up just a tad). Despite all of the dining room’s commotion, our waitress is as calm, polished, patient, prompt and knowledgeable as I can recall in recent memory. Her casual, yet professional service elevated our experience, and made it seem like a relaxed, albeit fancier home-cooked meal.

Primi (appetizers, all $10 if ordered separate from the prix fixe menu) consist of perfectly grilled calamari (my favorite preparation) with white beans, peppers, greens, and lemon. It’s light, simple, and lovely. My friend orders a large bowl of Grotto’s garlic soup, and one sip makes me wish I had, as well. A perfect amount of garlic permeates, but does not overpower the dish, while parmesan gives the soup just enough of a thick consistency, traces of black truffle can be detected, and toasted bread crumbs provide a nice, crunchy contrast texture-wise. It’s a stunning dish. Almost equally as good is my fontina cheese fondue, a fun little presentation that includes a quartet of nicely seared beef tenderloin tips and even meatier Portobello mushrooms. The fontina cheese sure ain’t your mother’s Velveeta, but it’s velvety good for dipping purposes.

Secondi (entrees regularly priced at $21 outside of prix fixe) did not disappoint, either. One dining companion ordered pan seared roasted diver scallops ‘ravioli,’ which our server identified as her favorite menu item, and for good reason. Three nicely sized, perfectly seared scallops were engulfed by a giant, house-made ravioli, accompanied by arugula, leeks, and wild mushrooms. Butter poached lobster, linguine, and spicy tomato sauce (fra diavlo) is also memorable, packing nice heat and includes a surprisingly generous piece of the succulent crustacean. I order one of Grotto’s signature dishes, the Bolognese, which our server explains locals adore and claim to be one of the most authentic versions they’ve had that closely resembles the finest plates in Italy. It consists of house cut tagliatelle pasta, San Marzano tomatoes, lamb, pork, and beef. It’s downright hearty, a shade spicy, and lamb flavor dominates the dish. It’s divine, and would make one of my all-time favorite pasta dishes if not for the slightly undercooked al dente pasta, a tad too crunchy for my taste.

Dolce (dessert at $9 separate from prix fixe) provided a decadent conclusion to the evening. Moist, warmed banana bread pudding was delicious on its own, but smooth, creamy caramel ice cream and spice nuts put other, inferior versions to shame. I admit my hesitancy upon ordering yet another warm chocolate cake. It’s a universal dessert that’s rarely done right. Our server highly recommended Grotto’s melting chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream, and because she hasn’t steered us wrong selection-wise all evening, I succumb. I am pleased to say that Grotto’s version does melt in one’s mouth, and is without a doubt one of the finest I’ve sampled in a long while. It’s sinfully good, a moist, gooey concoction that had me licking every last drop off of my fork and resistant to share with others at the table.

That heavenly chocolate cake had me thinking more about my terrific dining experience at Grotto. The food, décor, and service are neither flashy nor pretentious. Here, they are unabashedly simple and yet perfectly executed. A grotto is defined as an indoor structure resembling a cave. Grotto the restaurant defines itself by its exceptional food, service, and value. Do some digging of your own and you’ll unearth this buried treasure of a restaurant.

Nara is ‘Blah-ssez Fare’

An upscale Middle Eastern restaurant and hookah lounge situated in the heart of Providence’s Federal Hill? Nara, you could say, is a foreigner trying to find its way in this Italian food-dominated neighborhood. The menu is littered with promising Lebanese delicacies laced with even more promising exotic spices. And yet, despite a trendy interior consisting of earthy colors and a seemingly can’t-miss menu from Executive Chef Marios Azrak, Nara – from its insipid cocktails (a much-hyped $9.75 peach mojito begs for stronger peach flavor and more mint while a Saucy Mango, consisting of mango-infused tequila, lacks balance and had me wishing I had ordered its spicier version mixed with habanero) to its average cuisine – is merely adequate. If you’re expecting Nara’s cuisine to be on par with Tangierino, a much more accomplished Middle Eastern restaurant in Charlestown, MA, then, in the words of many old school Italians, “Fuhgeddaboudit.”


Let’s start with the one menu item that Nara gets completely right. Thankfully, the restaurant does justice to traditional hummus, which they (no pun intended) beef up by mixing in ground lamb, onions, and toasted almonds. It’s delicious, and the crunchy morsels of lamb in this version, hummus blahmeh ($12), are a welcomed contrast to the smooth, velvety texture of chickpea. While others at the table rave about the baba ghanouj ($9), I found it overwrought with lemon juice, creating an off-putting tartness to the dish. Mini lamb sausages (maaneek, $12) sounded wonderful, cooked with pomegranate molasses, but the dish is an unmitigated disaster due to meat that is overcooked, dry, and a tad salty. Mediterranean sea scallops ($12) are perfectly seared, but where is the intense flavor one would anticipate from sweet pea mousse, fresh orange zest, and white truffle oil?

Sugarcane tenderloin ($13) is oversold on the menu as mouth-watering. Two generous pieces of steak are nicely prepared medium-rare, but are lukewarm and merely sit over a slightly charred fresh slice of pineapple. The meat and fruit tandem should pair nicely, but each component merely dangle on the plate – like two people on a blind date with nothing in common – offering little by way of flavor. A quartet of jumbo mango tiger shrimp ($12) is a slight improvement, drizzled in a refreshing chardonnay-mango reduction. Deep-fried garlic cilantro chicken wings ($12) are meaty and crispy – always a winning combination – but like many dishes on Nara’s menu, they’re lacking that special something in terms of spices – in this instance, not enough cilantro (but in my case, is there ever enough of it?). Bata harra ($9) is Nara’s Lebanese version of Spanish patatas bravas, only in lieu of tomato sauce, the kitchen infuses the potato cubes with cilantro, garlic, and cayenne pepper. Again, what sounds wonderful on paper is merely average in terms of spice execution.

Service is pleasant enough, but plates tend to stack up (fortunately, we place them on the bar just behind us) and a reminder needs to be placed around water refills. For a relatively slow evening, more polish is to be expected from such a seemingly posh establishment.

Like the sweet hookah smoke floating around the restaurant, Nara’s cuisine is harmless and quickly evaporates from one’s memory. Aside from its hip, fun location, there are far better dining alternatives on the Hill to explore. Nara’s all style, but little substance.