Blackthorne Publick House, we hardly knew ‘ye. Taking over
the space previously occupied by the lamented Blackthorne (where the food -
prepared by a former head chef at Providence’s reputable CAV – often excelled,
but the art and music vibe endorsed by its endearing owner unfortunately never fully
caught on with locals), Leandro’s Italian Restaurant and Tavern is an undeniable
hit. One recent Saturday evening was evidence enough, from the parking lot at
near capacity to the raucous bar and bustling dining room. Amidst the crowd
chaos, an engaging, humorous hostess whisked us to our table. Gone is the
artwork adorning the walls, the musical stage, and the dour black mahogany
seating, replaced with warmer, lighter colored tables and walls (but with
muted, more romantic lighting). Couples both young and old, along with larger
families, seem to be enjoying themselves, and it’s no wonder why.
Keeping
all things in the family, owner Michelle Refinski Leandro manages the
establishment, while her husband, Emanuel along with his cousin, Leandro man
the kitchen (both have cooked for well over a decade). Their Italian-inspired
menu is extensive, while dishes are generous in portion size and well-executed.
Prices are extremely reasonable, even considering the restaurant’s suburban
locale. What’s not to like?
Leandro’s
features a modest, yet interesting and well-priced selection of wines available
by both the glass (a velvety, robust Joel Gott Cabernet, at $11, is a standout)
and bottle, while the beer list is equally impressive, ranging from Worcester’s
popular Wormtown IPA to a denser Allagash Black Belgian stout out of Maine.
Inventive cocktails ($8.50-12) – including the aptly named Midnight in Siciliy,
whose combination of bourbon and averna Sicilian amaro is not only smooth,
well-balanced, and potent, but whose dark appearance strikingly resembles red
wine – are most definitely worth exploring.
Appetizers
($6.50-14) veer more towards traditional Italian-American cuisine, including
stuffed meatballs with prosciutto. Surprisingly, it is a salad - of all things
- that proves to be one of the most
satisfying course of the evening. A baby arugula (at $10, the most expensive
but most worthwhile salad option), offers the perfect counterpoint of flavors
and textures, as the sweetness of soft figs, crunchy pecans, and a lively
orange-poppy dressing battle for supremacy against the tartness of crumbled
goat cheese.
Grilled
entrees ($18.50-26) are an absolute steal given their mammoth portion sizes and
flawless execution. There’s nothing necessarily flashy about these dishes – but
boy, they taste mighty good! Take, for instance, the perfectly cooked, nicely
seasoned, succulent pork chop ($21) served in a not-too-heavy apple demi glaze,
caramelized onions, and served alongside crispy Lyonnaise potatoes. Veal
marsala ($19) features thinly pounded, equally tender slices of meat in a rich
marsala and mushroom sauce, accompanied by garlic mashed potato.
Traditional
Italian desserts (i.e. tiramisu) offer an appealing, if slightly underwhelming
conclusion to the evening. We sample a house-made carrot cake which sadly
tastes pre-made, the cake slightly moist if not a tad dry and dense, with an
insufficient of cream cheese frosting to satisfy one’s sweet tooth. I’d suggest
bypassing these for a chest-warming alcoholic dessert flight such as that
wonderfully sweet amaro or port sherry ($12).
Our
dining companions also inform us of Leandro’s weekly specials such as $1
oysters at the bar on Sundays and Mondays, along with Tuesday Tastings that, at
$20, gets you three tasting portions and a wine or beer flight. It’s this type
of menu flexibility, along with genuine hospitality, reasonable price points, and
nicely executed (albeit heavily traditional) Italian cuisine, that only adds to
the eatery’s allure and initial wave of success. Leandro’s restaurant team may
be all in the family, but it certainly appears eager to extend its culinary
family to local residents.
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