Irrespective of longtime culinary staple Coriander (once a
premiere French-inspired dining destination from the owners of Westwood’s
Chiara Bistro and for the past several years a very suitable spot serving refined
Indian cuisine but less than refined service), Sharon Center has widely been
considered a ghost town for fine dining, an inconceivable notion for such an affluent
suburban community. Now that longtime liquor laws have been relaxed, and Sharon’s
cultural demographics have expanded over the years, the timing seemed perfect
for the owners of gastropub Square Kitchen & Bar to lay down their roots in
the space previously occupied by pizza joint, Pizzigando.
What should, however, serve as the
eatery’s primary attraction and draw is the arrival of acclaimed local chef
Rachel Klein, who oversees a smaller, yet focused and inspired menu that should
appeal to the masses. Klein, lest foodies forget, has been a rising superstar
over the years, having helmed the kitchens at Cambridge’s late, lamented Om (would
that legendary deconstructed Caesar salad be up for revival?), Boston Seaport
Hotel’s Aura, the sadly shuttered, yet boundary-pushing Liquid Art House, and
her recent venture in her hometown of Needham, RFK Kitchen. She has also
brought her creative flair to the menu at Providence’s beloved Red Stripe
restaurant. Sharon and local diners everywhere are now fortunate to welcome her
into a new location in which she can showcase her dynamic culinary skills.
Square’s ambience is intimate and
lively. The owner – a Sharon local - happily greets and converses with
customers, several of whom chat away at an L-shaped bar with the restaurant’s
logo brightly illuminated on a neon sign. Exposed brick walls provide rustic
charm to an otherwise modern space. Large glass windows enable customers to
view Sharon Square while allowing people outside to peer in and witness the festivities
inside. Several locals - families and
singles alike – pleasantly run into one one another, seemingly relieved that their
town finally has a dining hotspot they can frequent. My one quibble is that the
supply of the venue’s space does not match the demand of customers –
translation: seating is a bit cramped. Service, too, falls a bit flat and is
somewhat unpolished one evening (waiting forty minutes for our drinks to arrive
from the bar), but that is to be expected upon a restaurant’s grand opening and
I fully anticipate those types of shortcomings to quickly be ironed out by the
management team.
The menu is broken out into
creative sections (seafood: Raw & Once Was Raw; tapas-inspired fare: Come
Share With Me; salads: All Things Green, more popular bowl portion, a handful
of entrees, and burgers). Prices are reasonable for high end pub food while
portions are generous. While the accompanying smoked chipotle aioli sauce proved
to be merely satisfactory, the zing of cherry peppers and the tartness of pear
tomatoes provided a nice contrast in flavors for the crunchy calamari ($13).
That same aioli was utilized for street tacos ($14), consisting of three flour
tortillas packed with raw tuna cubes. A little more seasoning to the fish would
have elevated the dish.
Very popular amongst my dining
companions were the Big Bowls ($15-$17), including the zesty Cuban Mama comprised
of an innovative confluence of garlic and lime brown rice, crispy tortilla, picadillo,
sugar roasted tomato, cabbage slaw, and avocado. Klein and her team are wise to
insert these types of healthy options on the menu, which are very popular
nowadays with more health-conscious consumers.
But if it’s carbs you’re seeking,
look no further than the Red Eye Burger ($15), unquestionably my favorite item
currently on Square’s menu. This black angus baby is grilled medium rare to
perfection, the juices wonderfully seeping from the meat and into the brioche bun,
topped with delectable bacon jam, cheddar cheese, watercress, and a subtle, yet
satisfying espresso mayo (trust me, it’s divine). Paired with the kitchen’s handcut truffle fries and
you’ll forget all about Five Guys. This patty may very well match up to some of
Boston’s best burgers (Craigie on Main and Alden and Harlow come to mind).
If you have room for dessert ($11),
Square is nice enough to recognize and honor Sharon’s wildly popular and
legendary ice cream establishment, Crescent Ridge, by serving its ice cream and
sorbet. Take for instance, a black bean ice cream paired with a brownie sundae,
which Klein insists we take home with us to sample.
The bar whips up approximately a
handful of creative cocktails ($11), including a vanilla bean bourbon
Manhattan, the same amount of red and white wines (primarily from California),
while offering an extensive list of intriguing craft beer selections (many of
which are sourced from local breweries). My favorites included Hingham’s
Tempest IPA (Shakesbeer Brewery) and a bourbon barrel ale from Lexington, KY.
In the words of the immortal pop
rock artist, Huey Lewis, it’s hip to be square. In the hands of chef Klein,
Square Kitchen & Bar is quickly reshaping Sharon’s dining scene.
