Back in the summer of 2010, the Shipyard at Hingham bore
more of a resemblance to a graveyard than a waterfront destination,
particularly given its dearth of fine dining, which resided closer to the town
center (Square Café and Tosca). All that the area needed was a large outdoor
shopping mall and just the slightest touch of celebrity. Okay, make that a
healthy dose of celebrity, by way of the Walhburg brothers, led by actors/part-owners
Donnie and Mark and their chef/owner/restauranteur Paul Wahlburg. The modern
Italian and Mediterranean restaurant became an overnight sensation and even
spawned an offshoot of the upscale hamburger franchise, Wahlburgers (the
original sits immediately next door). The restaurant’s Italian-influenced name
is apt, an ode to the Wahlburg’s incredibly strong mother (alma) who raised
nine (nove) children in Dorchester, Massachusetts. And better yet? The food and
stylish atmosphere emit all of the love and joy that the Wahlburgers put into
the establishment and want customers to enjoy themselves. There’s not an ounce
of pretension to the place – it’s as if the Walhburgers are inviting you into
their own home.
Alma
Nove’s ambience is stylish, starting with its interior consisting of large
windows, mirrors, white tablecloths, and cathedral ceilings. A large, long bar
stretches from the entryway to the patio. Lights hang from a wagon-wheel like
structure across the ceiling. On a cool summer night, we elect the large outdoor
patio that overlooks Hingham Harbor and features a giant gas fireplace all
ablaze and fire pit. This al fresco setting is positively spectacular, featuring
one of the finest views you’ll find in all of Massachusetts.
What
about the food, you ask? I had heard whispers from several close friends that
Alma Nove was overrated or had simply lost its culinary way over the past
couple of years. Let me be the first to quell those rumors. Wahlburg’s menu is
enticing, particularly given its succinct, yet delectable description of
ingredients (i.e. wood grilled octopus, fingerling potatoes, grapefruit aioli).
Courses are split into antipasti (appetizers, $11-18), primi (pastas, $25-27 –
although customers take note: smaller, more reasonably priced tasting portions
are available at $10), and secondi (entrees, $27-37).
For
starters, potato-crusted calamari ($13) are lovely and smoky from being
prepared on the wood grill, served with fresh, juicy pickled green tomatoes
whose sweetness serves as a wonderful counterpoint to the saltiness of the tender
fish’s coating. If only there were more than a drizzle of mustard aioli for
dipping purposes that paled in comparison to the generous portion of squid.
Also impressive were a trio of handmade cod cakes ($12.50), whose perfectly
crispy exteriors gave way to a moist, fleshy, slightly sweet interior of
heavenly fish, which was beautifully balanced with an accompanying base of
smoky roasted corn and tomato relish that I would gladly bottle up and take
home.
When it
comes to pastas, Wahlburg mostly adheres to traditional dishes but puts his own
unique spin on them. Lobster ravioli ($27) comes stuffed with generous chunks
of lobster (i.e. even claw) and are topped with a distinct lobster-corn relish
and sweet corn cream sauce. While the sauce struck a nerve on my sweetness palate,
the dish manages to be an overall success given its successful merger of
saltiness and sweetness, all the while not being too heavy as most ravioli
dishes are. Orechiette ($25) is less successful, as the enticing combination of
flavors of pine nuts, slivered garlic, and Romano cheese just fester in
blandness, with Italian sausage that lacked much heat. The winning dish of the
evening was undoubtedly the pillowy, ethereal homemade gnocchi ($26) that would
make Walhburg’s mother proud. The pasta is light, airy, topped with truffled
Pecorino, and are paired with meaty, intensely flavorful wild mushrooms soaked
in Madeira wine that themselves could be served as a standalone meal. It’s a
knockout. A special of wood-grilled steak ($37) served over a Nebbiolo wine
reduction and incredibly smooth mashed potatoes is also memorable.
Surprisingly,
well-regarded pastry chef Christie Radeos’s concoctions were mild
disappointments, starting with the blueberry and vanilla swirl cheesecake ($9),
which lacked any real traces of said flavors and only a dab of promised
blueberry sauce, although dish’s secondary features including a candied lemon
rind and cinnamon cookie crust were strong. Chocolate sour cream bundt cake
($10) promised a moist, decadent delight, only to prove to be a dry, dense dud
whose house-made raspberry jam was more goopy than jam-like in texture.
Cocktails
were sweet and potent, starting with a spicy, Ginger beer-based Harvest Mule
($10) and an equally refreshing, spicy beverage consisting of watermelon-infused
tequila and habanero syrup. A9 barrel-aged cocktails ($11-14, with all barrels seasoned
one month in-house with madeira, while cocktails aged a minimum of six weeks)
are impressive indeed, including a smooth, well-prepared Old Fashioned (Salerno
blood orange liqueur’s sweetness nicely balances out the bourbon’s stiffness)
and even vanilla bourbon. And one cannot go wrong with the extensive,
Italian-influenced wine selection, featuring about a dozen reds and whites by
the glass and dozens other by the bottle, including a reasonably-priced Trebbiano
from Italy’s Abruzzo region ($55).
Service was adequate, if not
commensurate with the restaurant’s glowing ambience. Our waitress was certainly
knowledgeable, but her enthusiasm was lacking and never once broke into a smile
(what, no Mark Wahlburg onsite to lieft one’s spirits up?). There were minor
hiccups as well, including the time our first round of cocktails arrived after
appetizers were placed onto the table, as did serving plates (which were
surprisingly as small as the ones we used to dip our bread into oil).
Overall, however, Alma Nove admirably
lives up to its lofty reputation as one of the South Shore’s best fine dining
establishments. From its innovative, well-executed Italian and
Mediterranean-inspired cuisine to its not-to-be-missed atmosphere, in the words
of former rapper-turned superstar actor Marky Mark (aka Mark Wahlburg), there
are nothing but good vibrations emanating from Hingham Shipyard.
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