Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Broadway Bistro Worthy of Mild Applause

Sophisticated cuisine at a reasonable price on Broadway? Say it ain’t so, Broadway Joe! Indeed it is, if you’re dining on Broadway on Providence’s Federal Hill. Broadway Bistro is a quaint little restaurant with large culinary ambitions that manages to keep your wallet intact. Think $15-20 entrees and you’ll easily be able to splurge for that cannoli you’re craving on nearby Atwells Ave (while desserts are not offered here, complimentary, dense chocolate truffles are).

The bistro’s attempt at an intimate atmosphere is partially successful. On one hand, there are brightly illuminated white bulb trees along with walls painted in dark red hues, while on the other, the remainder of the dining room’s lighting is ultra-dim while music blares ultra-loud. Fortunately, servers are prompt, generally knowledgeable of the menu, and genuinely friendly. To take your mind off of the music, well-crafted Painkillers - a fruity cocktail that is a staple of the Caribbean - are a welcomed option, infused with housemade pineapple rum and topped with a dusting of nutmeg. They’re potent and refreshing, almost bringing me back to a beach on Barbados.

Starters ($7-9) bring mixed results, including a rather bland fruit salad with cantaloupe and walnuts (others, however, at the table, rave about it) and a chicken taco that was unquestionably bland and whose meat was overcooked and dry. No quiero mas, por favor, I felt compelled to tell our server after this failed attempt. Much better was the ceviche, which contained an abundance of plump, fresh seafood laced with just the right amount of seasoning and acidity from the citrus juice. Tender ribs marinated in orange-soy sauce and sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds fell right off the bone and were served atop grits – Southern-themed cuisine at its finger-licking finest.

Entrees were equally mixed. While paella contained a generous portion of chorizo and shrimp, I found the rice too pasty and the dish itself woefully under-seasoned, one which could have benefitted from a touch of salt. My vermicelli noodle dish, however, was the clear-cut winner of the evening, featuring fried oysters and cilantro.

While Broadway Bistro isn’t the runaway culinary hit I predicted it would be, given its pristine location (far enough away from busy Atwells Ave but within walking distance), its unique small restaurant charm, and highly affordable menu, this establishment should have a long, productive run alongside Providence’s Restaurant Row.

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