In Devra First We Trust. At least, most of the time, when pondering which restaurants I’d like to dine at. A few weeks ago, the revered Boston Globe food critic caused shockwaves throughout the Foodie Blogosphere when she proclaimed that North – situated in obscure Luongo Square just outside of Providence’s Federal Hill neighborhood – blew her mind. Paul’s Palate was excited to try North for himself on a quieter weekday evening and determine if Miss First’s assessment was accurate.
North’s ambience is interesting to say the least. Its dark interior has a nautical theme, as evidenced by thick, knotted ropes that flow from wall-to-ceiling, as if one walked into a small schooner vessel and its crew downing their grub. Paintings of nude pearl divers adorn the walls. Space here is also tight (only a half dozen tables stacked atop one another and a seating capacity of 30). But there are even more funky touches. 80’s rock music – including true Van Halen tunes before the band became more commercialized and Social Distortion – blares throughout the establishment. The bathroom features odd masks and even odder, indecipherable video collages, including one clip that reads “I hate turtles.” Tattooed, cordial servers attend to artsy clientele, several of whom don bifocals far larger than their heads allow. Behind the small bar up front lies a slurpee machine, which this evening boasts a cantaloupe flavor that will be mixed with rum and mint. It’s all very bohemian cool in a West Greenwich Village type of way.
The Asian-Cambodian influenced cuisine at North is almost as eccentric and fun as its atmosphere. The eatery opened last September and is run by three Johnson & Wales graduates, and you can taste the excitement of these young chefs via the bold flavors bursting from their dishes. The menu is very condensed (and is roughly the size of a tiny envelope), while selections are mostly limited to smaller, Chinese tapas options including Bowls and Plates to Share, Country Ham & Oysters, and Veg ($3-15). A couple of supersized entrees humorously labeled Very Big Things ($35-38) are served a giant, sizzling platter and can be shared by 2-4 people, while one dessert resides on the menu. While some might find the usage of ingredients redundant across dishes, such as cilantro, rice vinegar, and chilies, you can’t fault North’s owners for their joy in experimentation and creativity. Like a mad scientist placed in a kitchen setting, sometimes they fail, but more often than not, they achieve culinary greatness.
Take, for instance, the divine, instantly craveable Dan Dan noodles ($11), a dish influenced by New York’s beloved Momofuku restaurant chain, where one of North’s owners, James Mark, previously worked. The dish features Korean rice cakes – chewy, white tubes with just the right amount of crunch to them, tossed with even chewier rings of squid tentacles and smothered in a tender goat meat ragout enhanced by a hearty kick of black peppers and fermented chilies. It’s the must-have dish on North’s menu. Also noteworthy, if a bit less exciting ingredient-wise, is the Hot and Sour Chinese/American Bok Choy ($8), whose exterior strikes just the right balance between firm and soggy, is paired with crunchy puffed rice for crispy contrast, and packs subtle heat with fermented chilies and rice vinegar. I found the beautifully plated Burmese chickpea fritters ($10) lovely to both look at and consume. The fritters, to my surprise, were not fried, but rather, pan-seared, rendering the garbanzo beans’ texture more custardy than crunchy, and paired with delicious squash piccalilly, coriander, fennel, and a welcome touch of lime for acidity. It’s a complex, tasty dish.
Less successful offerings included Hidden Oysters, Crispy Fried, Ver 2.4 ($9), which consisted of three disappointingly lukewarm, somewhat dry Burmese pancakes containing celery, radish, pickled pepper, and only traces of the oyster, the supposed star of the plate. The friend pancakes were screaming for a dipping sauce, and a ginger-scallion version when provided upon request did wonders. Relatively spicy cucumber & Chino sausage ($11), while a refreshing counterpoint to the spicier, aforementioned dishes, was a mild letdown considering the lack of sausage (three small pieces) and the over-abundance of heavy rice that coincided with barely discernible hints of anchovy, scallion, chile, and mint.
Fortunately, dessert quickly revived my memory of what makes North shine brightest. The Mushi Pan ($8) melded a warmed, yogurt-infused griddle cake with uber-fresh, melt-in-your-mouth warmed blueberries and strawberries swimming in apple jam shiso, sorrel, and a dollop of crème fraiche. Paired with sweetened, strong Vietnamese coffee, this triumphant confection was a marvelous conclusion to the meal.
Service was relaxed yet polished, attentive yet not doting, and our server was extremely knowledgeable and gracious throughout the evening.
If you’re seeking a restaurant that possesses a unique atmosphere and cuisine, head south to North. While it’s not quite the mind-blowing experience as reported by Miss First, more often than not, it’s a culinary adventure worth taking.
North’s ambience is interesting to say the least. Its dark interior has a nautical theme, as evidenced by thick, knotted ropes that flow from wall-to-ceiling, as if one walked into a small schooner vessel and its crew downing their grub. Paintings of nude pearl divers adorn the walls. Space here is also tight (only a half dozen tables stacked atop one another and a seating capacity of 30). But there are even more funky touches. 80’s rock music – including true Van Halen tunes before the band became more commercialized and Social Distortion – blares throughout the establishment. The bathroom features odd masks and even odder, indecipherable video collages, including one clip that reads “I hate turtles.” Tattooed, cordial servers attend to artsy clientele, several of whom don bifocals far larger than their heads allow. Behind the small bar up front lies a slurpee machine, which this evening boasts a cantaloupe flavor that will be mixed with rum and mint. It’s all very bohemian cool in a West Greenwich Village type of way.
The Asian-Cambodian influenced cuisine at North is almost as eccentric and fun as its atmosphere. The eatery opened last September and is run by three Johnson & Wales graduates, and you can taste the excitement of these young chefs via the bold flavors bursting from their dishes. The menu is very condensed (and is roughly the size of a tiny envelope), while selections are mostly limited to smaller, Chinese tapas options including Bowls and Plates to Share, Country Ham & Oysters, and Veg ($3-15). A couple of supersized entrees humorously labeled Very Big Things ($35-38) are served a giant, sizzling platter and can be shared by 2-4 people, while one dessert resides on the menu. While some might find the usage of ingredients redundant across dishes, such as cilantro, rice vinegar, and chilies, you can’t fault North’s owners for their joy in experimentation and creativity. Like a mad scientist placed in a kitchen setting, sometimes they fail, but more often than not, they achieve culinary greatness.
Take, for instance, the divine, instantly craveable Dan Dan noodles ($11), a dish influenced by New York’s beloved Momofuku restaurant chain, where one of North’s owners, James Mark, previously worked. The dish features Korean rice cakes – chewy, white tubes with just the right amount of crunch to them, tossed with even chewier rings of squid tentacles and smothered in a tender goat meat ragout enhanced by a hearty kick of black peppers and fermented chilies. It’s the must-have dish on North’s menu. Also noteworthy, if a bit less exciting ingredient-wise, is the Hot and Sour Chinese/American Bok Choy ($8), whose exterior strikes just the right balance between firm and soggy, is paired with crunchy puffed rice for crispy contrast, and packs subtle heat with fermented chilies and rice vinegar. I found the beautifully plated Burmese chickpea fritters ($10) lovely to both look at and consume. The fritters, to my surprise, were not fried, but rather, pan-seared, rendering the garbanzo beans’ texture more custardy than crunchy, and paired with delicious squash piccalilly, coriander, fennel, and a welcome touch of lime for acidity. It’s a complex, tasty dish.
Less successful offerings included Hidden Oysters, Crispy Fried, Ver 2.4 ($9), which consisted of three disappointingly lukewarm, somewhat dry Burmese pancakes containing celery, radish, pickled pepper, and only traces of the oyster, the supposed star of the plate. The friend pancakes were screaming for a dipping sauce, and a ginger-scallion version when provided upon request did wonders. Relatively spicy cucumber & Chino sausage ($11), while a refreshing counterpoint to the spicier, aforementioned dishes, was a mild letdown considering the lack of sausage (three small pieces) and the over-abundance of heavy rice that coincided with barely discernible hints of anchovy, scallion, chile, and mint.
Fortunately, dessert quickly revived my memory of what makes North shine brightest. The Mushi Pan ($8) melded a warmed, yogurt-infused griddle cake with uber-fresh, melt-in-your-mouth warmed blueberries and strawberries swimming in apple jam shiso, sorrel, and a dollop of crème fraiche. Paired with sweetened, strong Vietnamese coffee, this triumphant confection was a marvelous conclusion to the meal.
Service was relaxed yet polished, attentive yet not doting, and our server was extremely knowledgeable and gracious throughout the evening.
If you’re seeking a restaurant that possesses a unique atmosphere and cuisine, head south to North. While it’s not quite the mind-blowing experience as reported by Miss First, more often than not, it’s a culinary adventure worth taking.
