Chez Pascal Brings French Chic to Providence

Who needs Paris when Chez Pascal, a cozy French-influenced bistro and wine bar, is a much closer dining destination? Nearing its ten-year anniversary (the restaurant opened in March, 2003), Chez Pasal – like a fine French wine – seems to have only gotten better with age. The bistro utilizes local, seasonal produce in its cuisine. The menu, while small in stature (selection-wise), provides dishes that are hugely creative and flavorful. And you know you’ve discovered a serious culinary restaurant that doesn’t take itself too seriously, as evidenced by both its servers decked out in jeans and its menus playfully inserted underneath many of its platings.


The bistro is divided into two intimate rooms, with a cozy bar to the side. We’re seated in the back room, with its yellow-splashed walls, that are decorated with a local artist’s (Anthony Salemme) jungle-themed paintings, a perfect complement to the leopard cushion seating. Tables are situated side-by-side, perhaps a bit too close if one does not want to hear an arrogant 21-year old Brown graduate endlessly boast about all of his knowledge on all things political and wordly. Fortunately, Chez Pascal’s extremely polished, yet casual waitstaff comes to our rescue. Multiple servers cater to every empty water glass while politely, unintrusively inquiring about how each course is.

And is each course ever delightful. For starters, we order the chacuterie ($18). With the exception of a couple of cured meats (which are made at nearby Daniel’s Catering), all other meats and pates – including a silky smooth, heavenly duck liver mousse topped with sweet onion relish – are produced in-house. This beautifully plated dish is sinfully good. Traditional escargot a la bourguingnonne ($12.50) are anything but, as six giant snails soak in an aromatic, warm garlic sauce, perfect for spreading on parsley-scented brioche. Pork of the day ($34) – which our server is nice enough to split into two plates – is a generous portion of tender meat prepared three ways, accompanied by sauerkraut and fingerling potatoes.

Desserts provide an immensely satisfying conclusion to the evening. Chez Pascal’s seasonal sorbets ($8) include a trio of blood orange, green apple, and lemon flavors that are light and refreshing. A tasting of three French custards ($10) was sensational, including a mocha pot de crème (the last of which, while quite good, was the weakest of the trio, as the mocha flavor was barely discernable amongst the dense, bitter dark chocolate flavor), a unique eggnog crème brulee, and a ridiculously good, silky maple scented crème caramel.

Providence might be more renowned for its Italian cuisine in Federal Hill, but if you head a shade beyond the Pawtucket border into Providence, Chez Pascal’s romantic ambience, attentive service, and creative French cuisine will make foodies forget Paris.

Caffe Bella Strips Away Strip Mall Restaurant Label

Randolph may not be widely regarded as a fine dining haven, unless one considers Not Your Average Joe’s fare to be above average. But look more closely, however, in a rather nondescript strip mall of all places, and you’ll find a gourmet gem in the rough. Caffe Bella is an Italian bistro that has long been popular with locals, and it is easy to understand why. An extensive menu boasts large portions of surprisingly creative, mouth-watering Italian cuisine at a fairly reasonable price point that falls below what you’d be accustomed to doling out for similar fare in Boston (although some may still find the prices a bit excessive for the strip mall setting).

            For appetizers, head directly towards Caffe Bella’s impressive assortment of fresh seafood offerings, including a heaping serving of Cape Cod littlenecks (there’s nothing little about these plump clams) and P.E.I. ‘Icy Blue’ farm raised mussels alongside spicy sausage ($21.50). Everything is playfully served up in a giant sauté pan, perfect for allowing the seafood, meat and two buttery-good pieces of wood grilled bruschetta to soak in an aromatic, intensely flavored, spicy broth infused with plum tomato, jalapeno, chile, garlic, scallion, and basil. The broth, in and of itself, could be served as a stand-alone dish. “We’ve had customers actually ask to bring just the broth home, it’s so good,” our affable server explains.

            Entrees are just as strong, including a hearty portion of Caffe’s Bolognese sauce tossed with fresh hand-cut parpadelle noodles ($16). It’s meaty and the perfect comfort food on a chilly, snowy winter evening. Wood-grilled duck breast and slowly roasted leg ($28) are moist and perfectly cooked medium, laced with a lovely sweet apricot fig glaze. Sides of lima beans and frisse salad are merely superfluous here, bland and seemingly for display. As impressive as the duck tastes, however, the dish’s piece de resistance is its accompanying house-made sweet potato prosciutto ravioli, one of the most memorable pastas I’ve sampled in the last couple of years (since that wonderful sweet pea lobster parpadelle dish at Providence’s woefully underappreciated restaurant, CAV). This version includes two raviolis that are uniquely prepared: they’re cut razor-thin, while the prosciutto is finely minced in with the sweet potato. A touch of sweet cream is then layered atop the pasta, enhancing the ravioli’s already ethereal flavor. It’s a stunning accomplishment, and quite frankly, left this critic stunned as to why it is not served as a stand-alone entrée. I’d gladly order it time and time again.

            Desserts, all of which are made in-house, provide a scrumptious conclusion to the evening. I forego the more traditional tiramisu and gladly dig into espresso ice cream topped with broken biscotti pieces and creamy nutella.

            Service is extremely polished and genial. Our waitress effortlessly recites the menu from front to back and confidently makes suggestions based on the fact that she has sampled every item (an impressive feat). Earlier in our meal, when I inquire if Licor 43 (a vanilla-flavored Spanish licquer) is available, she warmly smiles and recalls enjoying Licor 43 and Coke during her days studying abroad in Spain several years ago. When she reveals that she studied in Sevilla - where I, myself studied as well – a fun conversation ensues. Before we know it, my wife and I have been at Caffe Bella for over an hour and a half.

            Where did all the time go? And how did I end up so thoroughly enjoying my experience in this strip mall locale? Caffe Bella casts conventional wisdom aside by proving that there is always a time and a place for great food and exceptional service, strip malls be damned.

Posto a Fine Addition to Somerville Dining Scene

Posto, which opened to wide acclaim in 2009 in Somerville’s Davis Square neighborhood (and was named one of Boston Magazine’s Top 50 restaurants in 2011), is an upscale wood fired Italian restaurant and pizza parlor that, for the most part, manages to achieve decent marks.


Three years after its opening, the lengthy lines forming outside at 9:30 in the evening are indicative of this bustling bistro’s ever-growing popularity. Posto’s floor plan works marvelously, including a sleek bar to the back left of the room with black wine racks adorning the walls, which give way to a most impressive site: a giant open kitchen where diners can view their meals being prepared by a team of chefs. The kitchen’s piece de resistance is an Italian wood burning oven in which neopolitan pizzas are cooked in excess of 850 degrees (Posto’s pies are the only ones locally with the distinction of being certified by the Verace Pizza Napoletana or VPN). There’s also a more private backroom area adjacent to the kitchen. Posto’s cathedral ceilings and acoustics however, make for a rather loud setting and challenging conversation (although our friends insist that Posto’s owners’ newer establishment, Painted Burro, is far worse in terms of noise level).

Appetizers open strong. While the Crisp Calamari ($7) are more soggy than crispy in texture and come with a disappointingly bland pine nut romesco sauce, the rosemary sea salt bread ($2.5), baked to order, is divine, salty-doughy goodness. My favorite dish of the evening consisted of a quartet of tender lamb meatballs ($6), the meat swimming in a unique goat cheese crema, sweetened by apricot mostarda and mint gremolata, and which packed a surprising, yet welcomed touch of heat which, our server responded when questioned, originated from a dash of chili flakes.

Entrees were also noteworthy, particularly Posto’s pasta dishes. I could easily have devoured the ultra-tender beef short rib with potato gnocchi, soaked in port wine and parmesan crema ($23), for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It came highly recommended by our server, and it was superb. Also impressive was the crab toretellini ($22) with squash puree. Like the aforementioned short rib dish, Posto does not skimp on meat or seafood when incorporating them into their pasta dishes. The Posto Steak Burger ($15) has been recognized on many critics’ lists as one of Boston’s best burgers, and the sandwich deserves such merit. The uber-tender meat, which has a nice char and is a juicy served medium rear, consists of a unique blend of quality meat - archer form short rib and sirloin. Plopped on a warm, buttery brioche bun and served with crispy sea salt fries, it’s upscale comfort food at its finest. Most disappointing, however, was Posto’s much hyped pizza. The porchetta ($18) pie consisted of San Marzano, fior di latte, Swiss chard, slow roasted pork, roasted garlic, and red onion. What sounded like a meat-lover’s paradise fell far short of expectations as a result of an overly doughy, chewy pizza with a limp base that made lifting/eating slices virtually impossible. The pork was also excessively dry. The pizza might be VPN certified, but perhaps Posto needs a Neopolitan chef to properly cook Neopolitan-quality pies in its oven?

Inventive cocktails were exceptionally prepared, particularly pumpkin spiced sangria ($8), which was light, refreshing, and just potent enough. Our server, upon ordering it, beamed, “It’s terrific. The owner actually ferments the pumpkin right here in our basement.” Other seasonal concoctions included a spiced apple martini with local apple cider ($9). Posto’s beer selection is narrow, yet interesting, ranging from a Peroni Nastro Azzuro from Milan, Italy ($5.50) to more local brews such as Somerville’s Happy Sol ($5.95). Posto’s wine selection is far more extensive, and it is refreshing to see an eatery offer these not only by the glass or bottle, but also by carafe (Posto also offers up entrees in half-portions as well).

While desserts were not as complex as the beverages, they did deliver intense flavor. An enormous slice of tiramisu blended with Taza chocolate is every bit as richly indulgent as it sounds, while a chocolate cherry torta (think of a really dense, slightly fudgy brownie) topped with Vin Santo soaked cherries is akin to eating a giant chocolate covered cherry cordial. It’s fantastic.

Service was excellent. Our waitress was extremely friendly (she instantly recognized the couple we dined with as regulars), polished (nary a wine or water glass was left unfilled), and knowledgeable of the menu (oh, how I wished I had taken her recommendation of the short rib dish over the pizza!).

Posto doesn’t knock all of its dishes out of the park, but for its reasonably priced cuisine, its hip, relaxed ambience, and great service, it’s definitely worth recommending.

Trattoria Della Nonna is a Restaurant any Grandmother Would Love

Mansfield, home of the Comast Center, has always been a frequent destination for concertgoers, but the town has seldom been associated with fine dining. Trattoria La Cucina Della Nonna (Kitchen from my Grandmother) should put Mansfield back on the culinary map with its rustic, well executed Calabrian-inspired (Southern Italian) cuisine. Chef Kenny DeFazio opened his well-regarded eatery in 2000, with his wife, Yvonne, and locals have flocked there ever since.


Walking into the DeFazios’ establishment, the room certainly resembles Grandma’s kitchen in a comforting, traditional sense. The small dining room is intimate, with dimmed lighting and even lighter music playing overhead. Exposed brick walls surround the room, and the kitchen staff can be seen meticulously preparing meals towards the front. Towards the rear of the restaurant, a recently added, sleek martini bar/lounge area appears lively, demonstrating that even Nonna has a contemporary side to her.

For starters, Calamari-Sicilian ($9) are prepared in an innovative way, slow cooked and grilled (not fried), served with pine nuts and sweet currants in a slightly spicy tomato sauce over bruschetta. From the contrast in texture (rubbery calamari against the crunchiness of the bread, which sopped up the insanely good tomato sauce) to the balance of flavors (the heat of the sauce with the sweetness of the sweet currants), the dish was a hit with everyone at our table.

Entrees also impressed. Clams and linguine ($18) was served in either a traditional (tomato sauce) or spicy version. We select the latter option. I find the amount of chili flakes and accompanying heat a tad high to my liking, but others at the table disagree. Paired with a perfect amount of garlic, and with a generous serving of well-cooked clams, however, we all agree that overall, the dish is solid. Grilled rosemary lamb chops ($32) are beautifully cooked medium rare, whose flavor is enhanced by a sweet, yet surprisingly light fresh garden tomato sauce. I wonder if Nonna would be willing to share her recipe for that wonderful sauce? Tuna ($25) was yet another winning, unique Italian re-invention of a traditionally Asian dish, served sushi grade (interestingly enough, our waitress served this entrée last, stating that the chef was sensitive to the amount of time he let rare tuna sit on a plate), yet served over creamed Genoa tuna, peas and potato, and drizzled with pesto. The lone misfire of the evening was the Green pasta and eggplant ($18), consisting of taglierini, garlic, basil leaves, baby arugula, and a shade too much salt.

Desserts were also superb. Sicilian almond cake, plated with fresh berries and powdered sugar, was simple in stature, yet simply delicious in terms of its light texture and subtle sweetness. A concoction resembling a blueberry tiramisu was also pleasantly light and a creative take on the more traditional, coffee-tinged version. Most memorable, however, evoking several oohs and ahhs across the table, was the decadent English toffee cake pudding, baked in brown sugar, toffee sauce, and served with a small dollop of vanilla gelato. What’s most startling, however, was the dish’s pasta-like presentation of the cake, which was broken out into what appeared to be three pieces of toffee covered ravioli. It was a stunning dish to behold.

Service, with the exception of what felt like a slightly extended break between our appetizer and entrée, was well-paced and superb throughout the evening. Our server was genial, patient, extremely knowledgeable of the menu, and made us feel at home, as if we were in fact sitting tableside along with Nonna herself.

With reasonable price points, commendable service, and noteworthy cuisine, this is a Trattoria any Nonna would be proud of.

Oro Goes for Culinary ‘Gold’

Oro is the Spanish word for gold, and if it’s a treasure trove of culinary goodness you seek, head down to Scituate harbor, where Chef/Owner Robin King creates some of the most innovative, delectable dishes south of Boston. Robin and his wife/co-owner, Jill have taken their extensive experience in the restaurant business (Robin, having worked under Chef Kevin Long at nearby Tosca in Hingham, revered Chef Jamie Mammano at Mistral, and later with Chef Evan Deluty at Stella; Jill, at Top of the Hub and Aquitaine; both of whom ran Kevin Costner’s Epiphany restaurant in Santa Barbara, CA) and translated it closer to home (King hails from Marshfield) into their very own establishment. The restaurant prides itself on sourcing produce from small farms and fresh seafood from local fishing boats that are docked directly behind Oro in Scituate Harbor (the Kings’ boat resides there as well).


Appetizers, entrees, and desserts are playfully labeled on the menu as Beginnings, Focus and Sweet Tooth. For starters, the Misto del Mar ($15) consists of a massive tartare of tuna, salmon, avocado, and ginger vinaigrette. One of our dining companions shares with me that one of his friends once ordered it as an appetizer, entrée, and dessert. While I certainly wouldn’t go to such extremes, I agree that the dish is quite delicious, especially when the tartare can be scooped onto house-made potato chips. The saltiness and crispiness of the chips, beautifully stacked atop the tartare, are a wonderful contrast against the smooth, subtle fish, although I would have preferred a hint more of the ginger vinaigrette for additional spiciness and sweetness. Other enticing appetizers included a heaping bowl of rich, smoky, creamy sweet corn chowder with littleneck clams and Berkshire bacon ($10) and another dish I’m looking forward to trying at a later date, spiced lamb carpaccio with crispy fennel and pomegranate syrup ($11).

Entrees were equally impressive, particularly the crispy Scituate lobster cake (market price), garnished with spinach and grilled onion and topped with lobster crema. Like most of King’s creations, it’s lovely to look at and even lovelier to eat. It’s rich, but not extensively so, and the perfectly fried cake balls are generous stuffed with juicy lobster, a testament to the chef’s flair for experimentation, intricate cooking technique and execution. Also quite tasty is a dish that utilizes what is typically considered one of the least impressive parts of the pig, porky belly ($24). Here, the pork belly, in all its fatty goodness, has a crispy glazed exterior, and a succulent interior, cooked perfectly, and it’s lip-smackingly delicious. It is accompanied by unique accoutrements such as chive dumplings, spring onion, and shitake broth which only enhance the meat’s moist flavor. Other dishes, while good, do not resonate as strongly. My wife’s spicy cioppino ($24) is unapologetically non-traditional, served over a saffron risotto in lieu of broth, and contains shellfish and calamari. The fish and risotto are cooked nicely enough, but the dish possesses little of the spiciness it promises to deliver. The grass fed Bavette steak, served with confit potato, creamed spinach, and sauce au poivre, is also flavored well but is served lukewarm. The truffle fries ($6) are also flavorful but aren’t crispy enough for my liking. Chef King has always showcased his talent for pasta, particularly at Stella (his seemingly simple, yet deceptively complex spaghetti with toasted garlic, olive oil, and parmesan still resonates with me years later). His linguine aglio ($18) with wild mushroom, black truffle butter and farm egg sounded highly appealing, particularly when viewing a customer devouring it at a nearby table. This carbonara-inspired dish, however, will just have to wait until my next visit.

Desserts (all a steal at only $6) were a fine conclusion to a wonderful meal. A nicely plated caramelized pineapple right-side up cake was moist and decadent, served with mini fresh pineapple chunks, vanilla ice cream, and vivid paint strokes of pineapple sauce adorning the plate. Also delightful was the warm chocolate pudding cake with salted caramel sauce and coffee ice cream. Chef King also sent us a complimentary concoction, four Cookie Sandwiches (house-made chocolate chip), filled with vanilla ice cream and accompanied by whopper heath bar crumble.

Service was good, but not bend-over-backwards great. Our server knew every minute detail of the menu, but strangely, offered no recommendations when asked.

An extensive, well thought-out wine selection includes several bottles of reds and whites, of which a half dozen options are by the glass ($11-12). Oro’s creative libations include a unique take on the Whiskey Sour called the Scituate Sour ($10), which incorporates Malbec red wine and port-soaked cherries. It’s subtly sweet, light, and a perfect late summer drink.

Overall, Oro would earn a gold medal, had it not been for the god-awful acoustics in the restaurant. Conversation was virtually impossible. There are a limited amount of tables to the left of the entrance, but the hustle and bustle emanating from the busy bar area overwhelms all sound. It’s a shame that this detracts from an otherwise memorable fine dining experience. Otherwise, with its reasonable prices, innovative fare, seaside location, contemporary ambience, and a chef/owner with an obvious passion for food, Oro earns a well-deserved silver medal.

Oro Goes for Culinary ‘Gold’

Oro is the Spanish word for gold, and if it’s a treasure trove of culinary goodness you seek, head down to Scituate harbor, where Chef/Owner Robin King creates some of the most innovative, delectable dishes south of Boston. Robin and his wife/co-owner, Jill have taken their extensive experience in the restaurant business (Robin, having worked under Chef Kevin Long at nearby Tosca in Hingham, revered Chef Jamie Mammano at Mistral, and later with Chef Evan Deluty at Stella; Jill, at Top of the Hub and Aquitaine; both of whom ran Kevin Costner’s Epiphany restaurant in Santa Barbara, CA) and translated it closer to home (King hails from Marshfield) into their very own establishment. The restaurant prides itself on sourcing produce from small farms and fresh seafood from local fishing boats that are docked directly behind Oro in Scituate Harbor (the Kings’ boat resides there as well).




Appetizers, entrees, and desserts are playfully labeled on the menu as Beginnings, Focus and Sweet Tooth. For starters, the Misto del Mar ($15) consists of a massive tartare of tuna, salmon, avocado, and ginger vinaigrette. One of our dining companions shares with me that one of his friends once ordered it as an appetizer, entrée, and dessert. While I certainly wouldn’t go to such extremes, I agree that the dish is quite delicious, especially when the tartare can be scooped onto house-made potato chips. The saltiness and crispiness of the chips, beautifully stacked atop the tartare, are a wonderful contrast against the smooth, subtle fish, although I would have preferred a hint more of the ginger vinaigrette for additional spiciness and sweetness. Other enticing appetizers included a heaping bowl of rich, smoky, creamy sweet corn chowder with littleneck clams and Berkshire bacon ($10) and another dish I’m looking forward to trying at a later date, spiced lamb carpaccio with crispy fennel and pomegranate syrup ($11).



Entrees were equally impressive, particularly the crispy Scituate lobster cake (market price), garnished with spinach and grilled onion and topped with lobster crema. Like most of King’s creations, it’s lovely to look at and even lovelier to eat. It’s rich, but not extensively so, and the perfectly fried cake balls are generous stuffed with juicy lobster, a testament to the chef’s flair for experimentation, intricate cooking technique and execution. Also quite tasty is a dish that utilizes what is typically considered one of the least impressive parts of the pig, porky belly ($24). Here, the pork belly, in all its fatty goodness, has a crispy glazed exterior, and a succulent interior, cooked perfectly, and it’s lip-smackingly delicious. It is accompanied by unique accoutrements such as chive dumplings, spring onion, and shitake broth which only enhance the meat’s moist flavor. Other dishes, while good, do not resonate as strongly. My wife’s spicy cioppino ($24) is unapologetically non-traditional, served over a saffron risotto in lieu of broth, and contains shellfish and calamari. The fish and risotto are cooked nicely enough, but the dish possesses little of the spiciness it promises to deliver. The grass fed Bavette steak, served with confit potato, creamed spinach, and sauce au poivre, is also flavored well but is served lukewarm. The truffle fries ($6) are also flavorful but aren’t crispy enough for my liking. Chef King has always showcased his talent for pasta, particularly at Stella (his seemingly simple, yet deceptively complex spaghetti with toasted garlic, olive oil, and parmesan still resonates with me years later). His linguine aglio ($18) with wild mushroom, black truffle butter and farm egg sounded highly appealing, particularly when viewing a customer devouring it at a nearby table. This carbonara-inspired dish, however, will just have to wait until my next visit.



Desserts (all a steal at only $6) were a fine conclusion to a wonderful meal. A nicely plated caramelized pineapple right-side up cake was moist and decadent, served with mini fresh pineapple chunks, vanilla ice cream, and vivid paint strokes of pineapple sauce adorning the plate. Also delightful was the warm chocolate pudding cake with salted caramel sauce and coffee ice cream. Chef King also sent us a complimentary concoction, four Cookie Sandwiches (house-made chocolate chip), filled with vanilla ice cream and accompanied by whopper heath bar crumble.



Service was good, but not bend-over-backwards great. Our server knew every minute detail of the menu, but strangely, offered no recommendations when asked.



An extensive, well thought-out wine selection includes several bottles of reds and whites, of which a half dozen options are by the glass ($11-12). Oro’s creative libations include a unique take on the Whiskey Sour called the Scituate Sour ($10), which incorporates Malbec red wine and port-soaked cherries. It’s subtly sweet, light, and a perfect late summer drink.



Overall, Oro would earn a gold medal, had it not been for the god-awful acoustics in the restaurant. Conversation was virtually impossible. There are a limited amount of tables to the left of the entrance, but the hustle and bustle emanating from the busy bar area overwhelms all sound. It’s a shame that this detracts from an otherwise memorable fine dining experience. Otherwise, with its reasonable prices, innovative fare, seaside location, contemporary ambience, and a chef/owner with an obvious passion for food, Oro earns a well-deserved silver medal.

Ocean House is a Swimming Success

There’s prime real estate, and then there’s Ocean House. Located in scenic Dennisport, MA, this restaurant not only provides panoramic, stunning ocean views but serves up some of the most inventive, tasty cuisine in all of Cape Cod. Chef Anthony Silvestri’s New American menu features fusion fare with subtle touches of Pan Asian influence along with a heavy focus on local, seasonal ingredients.
There’s nary an unattractive seat in the house given the enormous glass window that dominates the main dining room and seemingly opens right into the Atlantic Ocean like an infinity pool. It’s a breathtaking sight to behold, particularly at sunset. It’s easy to mistake a Wednesday evening for the weekend, as evidenced by the two hour wait and throngs of people awaiting their tables. Boisterous locals shout (yes, acoustics are loud) over to friends at nearby tables, happily exchanging summertime stories. Hints of Cape Cod and aromas of seafood permeate through the air.

Undoubtedly, diners are enjoying the bartender’s creative, stiff cocktails, which feature a luminous red concoction called Cactus Flower ($12), an upscale margarita infused with elderflower and lavender liquor, including said flower atop the glass’s rim. A watermelon mojito is also light, refreshing, subtly sweet and well executed. Twenty wine selections are also available by the glass, most notably a phenomenally good Pinot Noir, Neiome by Caymus (California, 2011, $10) that would pair nicely with either fish or filet (mignon).

The lone disappointment of the evening are the fried Point Judith calamari ($14), a simple, classic seafood staple that one would think an acclaimed restaurant such as Ocean House would nail. Sadly, while the octopi are adequately cooked, what they lack is distinct flavor. The dish promises smokiness by way of chorizo and spiciness by way of cherry peppers, but barely any are detected on the plate. Fortunately, this misfire is instantly offset by yellow fin tuna tartar, which is a revelatory dish, not merely due to the freshness of the fish and intense flavoring (sesame and ginger vinaigrette), but because of its wildly unique and fun spinoff on the ice cream cone. A quartet of miniature ice cream cones contain the tartar, and are layered with a dollop of incredibly light, airy, whipped wasabi foam. Chef Silvestri’s creation possesses a wow factor usually reserved for more experimental chefs such as Ken Oringer at Clio.

Entrees are equally strong. This is not-your-average tasting halibut, whose flavor is enhanced here by encrusting it with ginger and pairing with braised Napa cabbage, red curry oil, and black rice ($28). Thai cioppino also offers a unique twist on the Italian-American seafood favorite, infused with kaffir lime broth and packed with an abundance of fresh seafood. A special of wild striped bass (in season for one month only) – whose thicker texture closely resembles a more tender cut of swordfish – is also divine, cooked in a zesty tomato broth and creatively paired with potato hash.

Service, for the most part, is respectable. However, with an 8 o’clock dinner reservation and neither water nor bread placed on our table until forty-five minutes have elapsed, our waiter apologizes for being called to other tables. Lesson #1 in Service 101: never blame delays on how busy the rest of the restaurant is. Fortunately for him, his bubbly personality and intricate knowledge of the men (along with a wonderfully crispy, triangular piece of sesame bread served vertically) made us quickly forget the early foible.

Overall, Ocean House, with its waterfront setting and inventive menu, is a solid Cape Cod fine dining option that manages to do most things well. It’s the little things, however, that make Paul's Palate not want to jump overboard for a return visit any time soon.